roythegrass

I sent the loco to a dealer to see if they could convert to DCC which they said they could. After 4 months all they had done was dismantle a few parts so I requested that they return the loco which they did but still partially dismantled! They then went out of business! I emailed Hornby repairs who’ve replied saying that they are unable to repair a Triang Rocket which was produced in 1963. This is surprising as it’s definitely Hornby and I believe it was released in 1982. Thoughts?

Thanks folks. Hands up, I was wrong! This evening I tried again and the engine and tender have separated. The loco was new seven years ago but never used so the connection was fairly stiff and I was reluctant to apply too much pressure when separating. And there's no wire connecting the two - I really must buy some new glasses! Thanks for the help.

Here are the photos. Although no clear in the photos there IS a wire between the engine and tender with no obvious means of disconnecting.

Thanks folks. I'll add a photo in the next couple of days.

I have a Hornby clan line loco which came in the R1073 Venice Simplon Orient Express. I'm trying to separate the tender from the engine to put back in the box for selling. I must have connected the two when purchased but now can't figure out how to separate the two with the wire connected. Help! (Photo for reference - not my loco.)

If anyone has the R3215 Eurostar Train Pack check the back of the box where it refers to the Eurostar additional coaches. It reads " ... R4580 Eurostar Divisble Coach..." In my day there were proofreaders to check for such errors! As with faults on stamps does it make my box any more valuable? (Only joking!)

I have a 4-6-2 steam loco which is continually derailing. The side to side play on the bogie wheels is about 3/4mm could this be the problem? Thanks Roy.

Now up and running and the analogue loco is working perfectly. I've learnt my lesson! Thanks to everyone for your help. Roy

As RAF said the jack plugs are different sizes and I've spent hours searching for the correct transformer. Now found so will try again tomorrow.

Thanks folks. I tried with a 9v battery and the wheels stutted and move slowly. I've just remembered I have an old analogue controller which I'll connect tomorrow. (Too cold in the garage to do now!) This is marked 19v input whereas the DCC controller is marked 15v input. Will this make any difference? Roy

I have a DCC layout. I have two identical locos, one DCC and the other analogue. By mistake I placed the analogue loco on the track thinking it was the DCC model, entered the address code and naturally it didn't move and non of the sound functions worked. I just heard a buzzing noise coming from the loco. Apart from being an old duffer the previous day I had my booster jab and was not thinking clearly. Will I have done any damage to this analogue loco ? Thanks Roy

Despite every effort to remove the in-situ fish plate it's distorting and will not budge. I'll resort to using a Dremel to cut the track on the old point side and then use pliers.

I'm replacing some points on my layout. I'm finding that removing old and fitting new fish plates very difficult - it's as if they've been welded on! Trying to slide a plate on in-situ track rail results in the plate being burred/damaged without moving. Having watched several tutorials on youtube they all show fish plates sliding on with just finger pressure. Where am I going wrong? Thanks. Roy

I've now installed the new power track and the locos are no longer hesitating over the track. (there was no capacitor in the old power track) I still have the problems with all the points and as I have one new point I'll exchange this to see if it helps. Roy

I guess one has to be careful when cleaning wheels with rubber tyres ?