roythegrass

I sent the loco to a dealer to see if they could convert to DCC which they said they could. After 4 months all they had done was dismantle a few parts so I requested that they return the loco which they did but still partially dismantled! They then went out of business! I emailed Hornby repairs who’ve replied saying that they are unable to repair a Triang Rocket which was produced in 1963. This is surprising as it’s definitely Hornby and I believe it was released in 1982. Thoughts?

Thanks folks. Hands up, I was wrong! This evening I tried again and the engine and tender have separated. The loco was new seven years ago but never used so the connection was fairly stiff and I was reluctant to apply too much pressure when separating. And there's no wire connecting the two - I really must buy some new glasses! Thanks for the help.

Here are the photos. Although no clear in the photos there IS a wire between the engine and tender with no obvious means of disconnecting.

Thanks folks. I'll add a photo in the next couple of days.

I have a Hornby clan line loco which came in the R1073 Venice Simplon Orient Express. I'm trying to separate the tender from the engine to put back in the box for selling. I must have connected the two when purchased but now can't figure out how to separate the two with the wire connected. Help! (Photo for reference - not my loco.)

If anyone has the R3215 Eurostar Train Pack check the back of the box where it refers to the Eurostar additional coaches. It reads " ... R4580 Eurostar Divisble Coach..." In my day there were proofreaders to check for such errors! As with faults on stamps does it make my box any more valuable? (Only joking!)

I have a 4-6-2 steam loco which is continually derailing. The side to side play on the bogie wheels is about 3/4mm could this be the problem? Thanks Roy.

Now up and running and the analogue loco is working perfectly. I've learnt my lesson! Thanks to everyone for your help. Roy

As RAF said the jack plugs are different sizes and I've spent hours searching for the correct transformer. Now found so will try again tomorrow.

Thanks folks. I tried with a 9v battery and the wheels stutted and move slowly. I've just remembered I have an old analogue controller which I'll connect tomorrow. (Too cold in the garage to do now!) This is marked 19v input whereas the DCC controller is marked 15v input. Will this make any difference? Roy

I have a DCC layout. I have two identical locos, one DCC and the other analogue. By mistake I placed the analogue loco on the track thinking it was the DCC model, entered the address code and naturally it didn't move and non of the sound functions worked. I just heard a buzzing noise coming from the loco. Apart from being an old duffer the previous day I had my booster jab and was not thinking clearly. Will I have done any damage to this analogue loco ? Thanks Roy

Despite every effort to remove the in-situ fish plate it's distorting and will not budge. I'll resort to using a Dremel to cut the track on the old point side and then use pliers.

I'm replacing some points on my layout. I'm finding that removing old and fitting new fish plates very difficult - it's as if they've been welded on! Trying to slide a plate on in-situ track rail results in the plate being burred/damaged without moving. Having watched several tutorials on youtube they all show fish plates sliding on with just finger pressure. Where am I going wrong? Thanks. Roy

I've now installed the new power track and the locos are no longer hesitating over the track. (there was no capacitor in the old power track) I still have the problems with all the points and as I have one new point I'll exchange this to see if it helps. Roy

I guess one has to be careful when cleaning wheels with rubber tyres ?

Thanks for that RAF, Chris et al. As an aside I ordered and paid for one power track on Amazon from Hornby and when delivered I thought the box was a tad large and they had sent an outer box of eight ! I'll contact Amazon and request a returns label.

Power track arrived today. I've removed the old power track -see photo- along with the four fishplates. Given that there is one fixed fishplate at each end of the new track how do I fit this? Roy

Thanks folks. I'll report back once the new power track is fitted. Roy

Sorry if my post appears in large bold letters. It was copied and pasted from word and I have no idea why it transferred in such large letters. Mod comment: The font of your post has been corrected in a mod edit. This forum does not handle text pastes from Word very well and should be avoided if possible.

Six years ago I bought a Hornby R1073 "Venice Simplon Orient Express" British Pullman premier boxed complete DCC train set. (Considerably extended since.) In recent times I’ve had problems with locos stuttering/hesitating over points but in particular over the power track so I’ve removed this and ordered a replacement. I noticed that this power track is marked Hornby R6206 which I believe is for analogue only. The replacement I’ve ordered is R8241 being specifically for DCC. Strange that Hornby included the wrong power track in the set. Would this account for the stuttering I’ve been experiencing? Thanks Roy

Thanks folks. I've noticed a slight tilt on the point -only about 4mm so I'll try leveling this first before replacing the point.

Re: Hornby 00 track. For some time my locos stutter or even stall when traveling over a point/crossover. The points are relatively new and thoroughly cleaned. I want to replace one of the points with a new replacement. The track is screwed down so removing the screws and ballast is easy but how do I remove the fish plates with the track either side of the point remaining in situ?

Born 1946 at the age of 0.

Thanks folks. HFM My camara is poor on close up so I'll borrow my sons and post a photo in the next few days. Roy

I have an R796 Stephenson’s Rocket and coaches that I require converting to DCC. The loco and tender are too small for a decoder; however a DCC specialist was confident he could fit a chip in one of the carriages and wire up to the loco. Having had the loco nearly three months it was eventually returned unconverted and the ‘specialist’ conceded defeat. I came across this on youtube: (The text “steam age models” should read “steam era models”.)D & E Videos / DC Kits do these bogies which apparently are being discontinued. I don’t know what bogie or wheels I require, and can someone recommend a specialist who could do the conversion work - way beyond my skill level.Thanks Roy