Scuderia Scalextric

Suspect I won't know unless I buy both! The Camero is on offer though so might be my choice...

Bit of a niche query! I'm considering buying a new Trans Am car from my local shop (I'd rather give them my money that the internet!) which I want to use as a 'pacer' car on my 6-car powerbase. The choice is between a Mercury Cougar (seems lower, thinner but a longer boot) and a 1969 Chevy Camero (slightly higher but more compact wheelbase). Does anyone know which would be the better pacer car, i.e. to set running as a computer controlled car, so needs to be the better handing without sliding?

I prefer Scalextric cars on my Scalextric track, but do have a Pioneer car (Dukes of Hazzard Dodge Charger!) which is designed to take a Scalextric DPR chip. It runs fine, although I've put a weaker magnet in it, but scale wise, it looks just a bit too big compared to my other Scalextric cars. Saying that, I've just got the Scalextric Aston Martin DB5 (racing version in white gold) and it also seems a bit on the large side scale wise when compared to my Scalextric Jag E-Type and Ferrari 250 GTO and the driver looks a bit small, compounding the issue.

Further to my first reply, my local shop has had a look and it was the electrical contacts to the slot plate that had been dislodged when the braid plate was fitted - easy to correct, and I should have checked this first!

I've just reviewed the Scalextric website and it helpfully now breaks down the monthly release dates of the new cars, but the 2 x Senna Lotus' (Lotii?!) and the JPS World Champions Lotus Esprit appear to be missing? Unless its just the website in the process of updating...?

I've had a problem with the new Holden Torana which has stopped working after I fitted a DPR chip (it ran for a few dozen laps then stopped), but all my other cars run ok. My intention is to just take it back to the shop where I got it to either have it fixed it or I suspect replace a faulty DPR chip.

I had a similar issue with the old Drift set (2 x Nissans), which I bought second hand some years ago, mainly for the track. One car always seemed to stutter as well, so I placed a small weight inside under the bonnet to help keep a bit of pressure on the guide blade (nothing more complicated than blue tack and some 2p coins! Could affect the handling, but the magnet was moveable on these cars, so could experiment with different set ups). Helped both cars, although one still seemed to stutter a bit. I don't know if loosening or tightening the guide blade screw would also help (assuming your cars also have a screw)?

Many thanks for the responses, Ill keep trying the publisher...

Hi All, I paid for a subscription to Slot magazine last December to start from issue 44 (via Doolittle media), but I haven't received the issue yet. It appears to have been released around 25th Feb, but has anyone else received theirs yet, or bought it? I've tried emailing Doolittle, but had no response back yet, many thanks, Chris.

The pace car option on the 6-car powerbase can be made to work very effectively - I use standard R2, R3 and R4 curves (on a 8 x 4 foot base) and can even use an odd R1 curve (although better without). Some cars are better pacers than others (and can be improved with better magnets, or moving their position), and grip is improved by sanding the tyres (ensuring the cars that I race do not have have their tyres sanded). Works better with 1 car per lane, but can still work with 2 pacers in digital mode (although some inconsistency with power if multiple cars on one lane) I also race sitting down so the track is nearer to eye level to make it a bit harder for me, but I think it looks better than a birds eye view! Can take a bit of time to set the cars up, but a bit of perseverance pays off!

Hi Jim, if its not too late, there is a variation of this circuit using the Elevated Cross-over (C8295) instead of the flat cross-over which would eliminate collisions. It was previously called SL2 on the Jadlam web-site (some years ago), and it also replaced the outer corner furthest away from the crossover with 8 x radius 3 curves (giving a faster circuit). A similar circuit is currently on the Jadlam website (SL6) although this does use Radius 1 curves for part of the inner circuit, which isn't needed on SL2. I regularly use the SL2 circuit on my own 8 x 4 foot base. One suggestion is to have the long straight on the side furthest away from where you are standing - it may be to do with my age (46!), but its easier to track the cars at high speed on the long straight when its further away from you, and then the slower winding corners are closest to you!

Many thanks for the advice both - I have removed the magnet from my Lancia Delta S4, and although it can get around, I can see that it needs some weights to help stabilise it. I used to use copper coins on my old cars, but I presume that I can get some small lead weights on line? Will also consider some better tyres, but am enjoying the adding fun of having a more skittish car. Will try my Mk II Escort next, and have the Lancia Stratos twinpack on order so will try one of these as well!

I have just posted an item about what tyre to use to go mag-less racing, but does anyone have any other hints or tips? I have a 8 x 4 ft Scalextric Sport (6-car digital powerbase) track in my garage, and race against the Pacer system (which is very effective by the way). All my cars (Rally, Touring, Trans-Am, F1 classic, F1 digital and Classic Le Mans) have magnets, but I have considered trying some as mag-less, either to race against the clock, or against the Pacer cars, if I can get enough grip. Many thanks.