ColinB

I suppose the first question is "have you tried loading another profile" to see if the error is with the file or your motor connections.

I know the the person who posted it highlighted their error several posts later. The bit in question is the direction bit. I have done everything I can think of but the sound does not function so it is a return job. As to the weird effects I was getting with the decoder and app who knows. There does seem to be an issue accessing CVs on DCC occasionally, normally I would blame the track but I double checked that. The decoder now works perfectly on DC and Bluetooth without sound, I even ran it around the layout for an hour without it failing. So obviously something has gone wrong with the output stage of the sound.

I know George had updated the post to say he had made a mistake. Bit 0 is the direction bit as highlighted in the app.

Yes 96RAF thanks for the information. Interestingly in my case in my case I just got the opinion that the app was pointing to the wrong decoder or had somehow screwed itself up because it had disabled DCC and Bluetooth controls but supposed could still see the decoder. Deleting the App reloading it and starting from scratch fixed it, well the non sound part of the decoder. After setting the least significant bit in CV29 the sound still doesn't work, more importantly how did it get cleared, I don't touch CVs. I suspect something on the sound circuit has blown, I am waiting for a response from Hornby. I also had issues reading CVs on my Elite, sometimes it worked sometimes not, more interestingly when it didn't work I got a buzz on the speaker. Anyway it can go back to Hornby, if I had done something dubious I would own up but in this case all I did was fit the decoder and PowerBank properly into the tender so I could get the body on and it stopped working.

In my case I wanted to see if the device had got damaged because its properties had got corrupted. It doesn't matter I found a way to sort it out. Thanks for the info. Interestingly once I deleted the app and rescanned it sorted the device out. My device initially appeared on the app but I couldn't change from Bluetooth to DCC.

Ok, thanks for that. So I have a loco loaded and I am controlling it with Bluetooth. Now if I do a scan I should see my device that I am controlling appear in the scan, but it doesn't. Is it meant to do that.

So where in the menu structure is the rescan key option? I only managed to get it to do it by removing the app and reloading it. The app on my phone had got completely corrupted.

Thank you for the info George, mind has also lost sound. Interestingly initially it registered on the app but no control. Reloaded the app and profile now works on Bluetooth and DCC but no sound. CV 29 was set at 2 changed it to 3, but still no sound so I imagine in my case a hardware fault. I forgot, checked it both on the loco and tester so it is not the speaker unless it is blowing them up but they still measure 8 ohms so I doubt it is.

That is what struck me as weird unless Hornby are thinking of developing a super detailed class 37, but that is a lost cause, the Accurascale one is so good. At Hornby's pricing structure they stand no chance. I am surprised they are going with the Deltic, but I suppose it is in a different colour to the Accurascale ones and is diecast. My class 37 is so good, with the "stay alive" I use it to move locos stuck in tunnels.

For anyone that is interested Jadlam are having a sale of Hornby locos at really good prices.

Looking at the web it appears the Hornby one is in original colours. I assume that it will also have a complete new chassis as their current offering is the Railroad version. Unusual, in that normally their HD models are existing models with a diecast body, this looks like a completely new design. Correct me if I am wrong.

From what I gather Hornby were on top of the issue when locos were made in the UK, it was when the Chinese started to make them the problem reoccurred. It seems to take a while for the Chinese to get a grip on materials. The Royal Scots are really bad for it and the Princess Elizabeths they made for a M&S trainset were really bad, then there are the 9Fs. My 9F is later but that didn't stop them making the tender out of plastic which splits when you put the empty ringfield motor chassis into it. When I was looking for a replacement chassis for my Princess Elizabeth it seemed they rotted around where the motor goes, similarly on the Royal Scots.

Generally on new decoders the disable DC running CV is usually not set. I must admit I have had issues with ESU decoders, the sound ones are ok, but the normal decoders don't always seem to work that well. Anyway I assume he is testing on DCC otherwise why buy a decoder.

Ok I Googled it, it is 21 pin very difficult to blow up. So either yours was already broken or it is something simple like fitting it with one pin out. Check to see if you have fitted it correctly it is easy to get them one pin out and think they are on properly, I did exactly that yesterday and couldn't figure why it didn't work. Of course if you managed to fit it upside down and one pin out you could kill it but I doubt you did that. Favorite is it was duff when you bought it, if you haven't smelt burning.

So what type of decoder is it 21 pin, 8 pin or one of the others? Generally when I blow one up they smoke, sounds like yours hasn't. If it is a 21 pin then it is very difficult to blow them up, if it is 8 pin a lot easier. It could be that the decoder was duff from the beginning I had one that didn't work properly. Has this decoder got "stay alive" that can cause issues when trying to read. I need to know what type it is?

Thanks 96RAF for the information, I had ordered one to take apart and for the connector.

Don't you think I know that, so who am I going to verify it with? It doesn't matter anyway there is no way anyone can change it, it is on the PCB. The only thing you can change is the Powerpack itself, which if I am right is 3 electrolytics in parallel. Assuming you have to connect to the connector, as to remove the connector on the PCB looks like you will damage the board. How Jenny Kirk did it amazes me, but them I am very careful and I know how easy it is to pull tracks from PCBs. So you could pick the wrong two connections on the socket meaning the "stay alive" just doesn't work or connect them round the wrong way which means the Powerbank would probably blow and be damaged. It might damage the feeder circuit but it should have a bleed resistor in series which will protect it. Anyway once the connectors arrive from China I will post how it goes.

I have been looking into this because I want to add a smaller size powerbank. So my question is what is the pitch of the connector? I think I have found one from China with wires attached. As to the Powerbank, given that it is only two wires, according to the fat specification, a 3 pin is used to stop you plugging it into the wrong socket. So I doubt it contains resistors, I may me wrong but given its size it is 3, 2200uf capacitors connected in parallel. If anyone is interested I can post what I think the circuit is. Are you really sure they have banks of resistors to charge it? As it is under the control of the processor on the decoder a variable pulse width modulation signal I imagine would do the same. You still probably need one resistor for protection though which is on the charging circuit within the decoder. Incidentally, I suspect this is the same circuit that the likes of Zimo have been using in their decoders for quite a while.

Great thank you for the information.

Has anyone measured the actual size of the HM7000? I have looked up the Hornby technical specifications and the size stated looks rather optimistic, so I did a web search and got the following "Size: 20 x 12.5 x 9.5mm on a 150mm lead", Hornby states it as 18 X 10 x 7. Now looking at the pack it looks like 3 or 4 electrolytic capacitors shrink wrapped together which would identify the first set of dimensions being correct.

It is a shame Hornby don't do it as a model as the Ongar Railway has one, so very easy to get recordings. I must admit I haven't seen them run it lately but that maybe because they normally run steam or a diesel railcar. On that railway there is an underpass under the M25 the echo as it goes underneath is wonderful. As you have said it is definitely a different sort of sound. I think if I remember rightly there used to be a YouTube video from the front of the cab. It is so iconic I bought the model from Monk Bar in York when I was on holiday, they were doing it cheap. My sound system came from Howes.

Fortunately that was one of the good things the previous owner had done. They had even painted the brake rigging.

Bought Clan Line Merchant Navy in its pre rebuilt form. Ran it on a length of track using DC, ran perfectly. Opened up the tender to fit a DCC decoder to be met will a load of horrors. Guy had removed the DCC socket and shorted out the 4 pin connector so it would only run on DC, then opened up the loco to find a load of lead weights and again shorted the pickup to motor connections. Fortunately it was something I can fix but why do it? Finally in their quest to get realism they had replaced the non flanged pony truck wheels with a flanged one out of a diesel (not spoked). I did try it on my layout with the flanged pony truck wheels but it clomped on every bend although it didn't derail. I could blame the Seller but he was probably just like me, ran it on a metre length of track on DC. The thing I still struggle with is why, these locos are really good in standard form. Anyway left the weights in as it didn't have any adverse effects and rewired it, plus I got a replacement bogie with wheels off Peters Spares so a happy ending. Really nice loco now.

Thanks SteveM6 a sensible answer. Surprising though, seeing as they have just released two new West Country/ Battle of Britain locos.

Look can we get one thing straight the TTS has nothing to do with the original recording it is a derived digitisation. I may have said you could convert a TTS format to the new format but I also said that there wasn't enough data to get a decent sound. So can forget about TTS and focus on the original recording, so you are saying that the original recording is not good enough for your new system, so that says that it is never going to happen because as someone said there are no examples on preserved railways. As to the devs, they are wrong you can convert TTS to TXS if you really wanted it is just the quality would not be there, all you do is run the loco with TTS and record it or the alternative do a bit of digital processing on the original file. How do you think they made CDs from old Beatles recordings or colour films from original black and white ones. So yes you can do it. I really do wonder where you guys get your information.