ColinB

Have you looked into threaded sleeves, I assume the hole is too big for a helicoil.

I suppose the thing is have they managed to sell it. One of the YouTubers had a point, saying this model was selected as it had a flat side to put all that text on. It wasn't for me I bought the Coronation Duchess as it was by Hornby's standards really good value for money even if I did have to change the front bogie bolt to stop it derailing.

As I said it may be just my track, in which case you need not worry. I was just telling you the fix, if it is an issue. There is a third option, bend the bogie holding bracket just a little downwards. With mine, my track dips down going into the tunnel and then a bend inside the tunnel, there is not enough travel on the front bogie so it hangs in free air, so when it gets back to level track the bogie moves up but is no longer following the track. Funny the P2 derailed in a completely different place.

Ok it may be my layout but I have the same derailing issues with the front bogie. So if anyone else has the same problem, as with virtually all the latest Hornby steam locos I have bought, the shoulder bolt holding on the front bogie the distance up to the shoulder needs to be about 1 mm longer. Fortunately I had one from my spare parts (probably off an A1) which works perfectly. I think when I had issues with the Members Club Coronation I had the same issue and fixed it the same. So to anyone in the know has Hornby changed its bolt Supplier, all my earlier Duchess/ Princess Royal locos don't have the issue.

I suspect it is probably the shift in management team. The new lot are probably more interested in making a dent in last years loss rather than trying to appease RMWEB (which you will never achieve) which Simon was paranoid about (according to the TV program). So perhaps they are more focused on selling stuff. Like or not Rails and Hattons were really good at shifting their product.

I am not surprised, I have seen it before on other decoders.

If appears from a EMAIL this morning RAILS is back as a Retailer, does that mean that they have realised selling exclusively to the Public is not as easy as they thought.

There is a lot of unanswered questions from Hornby's part. I mean if they produce a catalogue is it still going to be a "wish list" of what they are going to make. I suppose if they announce more closely when the model will be available that has got to be bad news for them. A lot of us preorder from Hornby direct, to fix the price. If the timescale is shorter then it would be advantageous to order off of a Retailer as we get it slightly cheaper and the better ones like Derails do the QA, that Hornby fail to do. At the moment because I am a Hornby member I get 10% off, but I gather this will be replaced by points at its anniversary, so another reason not to buy direct. Good strategy though, I would prefer it that way not like this last month where I have had 4 pre ordered locos from Hornby, that I preordered at different times turn up within the space of two weeks.

I can see where you are coming from Dukedog, I imagine a lot of the large exhibition layouts must use them.

I don't disagree Brew Man, I have had many issues with duff sockets.

Does Lendons not have them, generally they are cheaper than the other suppliers. EBay is normally the last resort for things like this although there are a couple of Sellers that are reasonable, that I deal with. That well known spares firm is normally 20% plus more expensive. I checked, Lendons doesn't have them New Modellers have them and they are a really good firm to deal with, reasonable Post and Packing and quick despatch.

I don't know about Kings as I have never built one from bits, but virtually all their other locos they use roughly the same valve gear per model, but obscurely change the part number. The big variation is in late tender driven and loco driven varieties as the mechanics are different. The reason I say that, is is quite often impossible to get the valve gear matching the part number. Looking at your photo the piston still looks intact, sometimes you can fix them by drilling a 1 mm hole and using something like a veropin (for veroboard) as an extra long rivet.

Looking around it is a standard 8 pin DCC socket, now looking at Peters Spares the X7507 is incredibly expensive and out of stock. Hornby for some unknown reason gives them all different part numbers but X9084 part is virtually the same. If you go to New Modellers web site it looks like you want the "L" variant. Looking at the X7507 it looks like it is a 8 pin socket on top of the normal circuit board which usually are very reliable, so check the soldering underneath it. Where they solder the socket to a PCB with large holes you can get issues. It could also be the decoder, that is not unheard of, I normally find another one to substitute. There again you may fix the fault by just taking out the decoder from the socket and pushing it back (it cleans the pins by this action).

Barry of Cranworth Model Railway recommends using Marklin ones, he says they are better.

Why are you so concerned about the coal pusher. With the standard coal load Hornby supplies you cannot see it and it is only on the latest models. I notice it as I add real coal and I like to see it. If you think it is wrong either use the standard coal load, or fill it completely with coal then you don't see it. If it really bothers you that much buy a tender from an earlier version, the coal hopper takes real coal but there is no detail. I think they use the same tender for all their Coronations although the early ones didn't have a ladder on the back. I think the coal pusher came in quite recently with the City of Salford. The Princess Royals have the same arrangement except the early ones had a moulded coal load they also don't have the ladder on the back.

I see what you are trying to do, I can now see why I have so many issues getting a suitable switched circuit board, all of them only switch one wire. My DCC layout is split into sections, it makes fault analysis easier and is a carry over from when it was DC. I have always switched both wires because lets face it when you run in reverse the wires are switched round. So what you will need to do is rewire it so that both wires are switched. It might work switching just one wire, but I am not sure. You might find though you get some really funny effects. Thinking it about it a bit more I think it will work switching just the one wire as this is effectively what I do with my points. I have isolating sections after each turnout so that if the point is set wrong and the loco approaches from the wrong direction, the loco stops but I am only switching one side of the DCC the other track isn't effected.

Look for once I will stick up for Hornby, to do all that people suggest would mean he would still be designing it, he has to work to timescales like most people so perhaps it is slightly wrong but to most people that buy this model it doesn't matter, they will never see one. It is nice to know the differences and as someone said perhaps later versions will add the extra bits as they are doing with the Hush, Hush. Personally I just hope they have got the bogie design right.

This one was highlighted on the Hornby program on the Yesterday channel. The guy that designed it was looking up the details from a old loco book, I mean he couldn't go and look at a real one. So perhaps the books he had were wrong, it wouldn't be the first time. Seeing as he was designing it from scratch that was probably all the information he had. Obviously Simon didn't know either as he would have pulled him up on it for fear of all those negative reviews on RM.

I know that but there are an awful lot of people on this forum that talk to them at shows and other events. It was an idea to discuss amongst ourselves.

I have had issues with the old style pin and twin wire connector on the drawbar shorting out. In the end I replaced them with the new 4 wire connector. It could be the pickups on the tender touching the axles of the wheels at the back end where they bend. Other that that horrible drawbar generally the tenders are not an issue. I have had problems with the back end pickup on the loco touching the chassis where the paint has come off the pickup. It may that the tender puts more weight on the back end of the loco to cause it. Other than that they generally are one of the more reliable locos.

Here is a thought I notice that when Hornby sell a loco with sound fitted, the difference between the non sound and is about £40 to £50, perhaps as a marketing feature they could do the same when selling a new loco. So sell you a HM7000 at a discount price. It might up the sales of HM7000.

Daedalus it is working until the next major concern (we were never allowed to call them bugs), it is acceptable. On the P2 I still think the whistle is a bit distorted but I am no expert, so it is probably me or the speaker. I tried it at all sorts of speeds and it didn't miss a beat so I was happy.

I know you was Daedalus. I was just highlighting the other issues. They seem to have fixed it so end of story.

Reset circuitry on most systems is always an issue, but usually it is the software what you call the start up code where you set up all the interrupt registers, without going into too much detail a lot is to do with setting up the interrupts and all the various ports on the microprocessor, sometimes if it is a "warm start", things don't work as well. I have spent many hours sorting it out on systems where the microprocessor didn't come up properly and then you also have some micros that are damaged and only startup properly every so many attempts. I have a decoder I took out of a loco, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, if it starts up, it runs perfectly. I suspect it got damaged but not enough to kill it completely. That is probably why I got the loco cheap. With my DCC controller you can easily do a reset because it has DCC on and off buttons, on an Elite you just press the Error key and then I think it is the Escape key. Surprisingly my my Rapido loco with a LokSound decoder, well I think that is what is fitted, came up with no sound the other day after it did a reset after hitting a dirty piece of track.

Well I have just tested the v2.0 release on my P2 and it looks like you have it cracked. It performs perfectly no stopping like it used to. So well done. Actually I hate to say but I was quite impressed. Obviously the original poster needs to try it and see if it does fix his issue. It did stall on one of my bits of duff track where I haven't got round to wiring the frog but it recovered whereas previously it would have had issues.