Mar Mallard

Hi folks, I have just set up my layout again and reinstalled Railmaster succesfully on new computer. I just have that infuriating situation where every short circuit means I have to reset the whole system. I did have this problem before but I just can't remember how I solved it. Is the fix in the .ini file? Apologies if this is obvious! CG

I found this TTS decoder disappointing...

I have a TTS sound Castle class chip in the tender with a sugar cube. A bit fiddly but works great.

Hi folks, Just re-installed RM on my new computer, all set up okay however there are no pop-up windows. So I cannot clear a short-circuit as I would have done or run a loco from the pop up window by double clicking. Any ideas? I downloaded the evaluation software and then activated it with my key successfully. Version 1.74. Thanks, Chris

Agreed! Slightly off topic but have you ever felt the need to remove the old redundant motor housing from the tender? I am in two minds in the way that it seems pointless but I rather like the weight, as opposed to the extremely light modern tenders with just dcc sockets in them.

Yes, like my Henry has (with black 5 body). Socket was in loco and Roxley Models fitted Black 5 sound in body with sugar cube. Must have been a v. small one but sounds great.

Just to be clear which Flying Scitsman do you have? If it is more modern with DCC socket in tender, then the fit is standard and simple. Simply remove tender body, plug in decoder and place standard speaker face down beneath the metal plate at the bottom. You have to undo metal plate. Take speaker out of plastic case obviously or it will not fit. I learned this by observing how factory fitted TTS models were done. If you happen to have one copy that. If yours is an older model with a socket in the loco body or no socket present then there is more work and some soldering, at least of a new speaker, sugar cube as Colin B says. If no socket I give it to my local shop to convert, personally. Depends on your skill set. I seem to remember old FSs were tender drive. If so this is much more of a job but I have had my local shop convert all my tender drive Thomas and Friends locos to DCC sound with sugar cubes in the tender. However they all had DCC sockets in tender as well, which old FSs might not have.

On that note I am going to pass a quick judgement on the TTS chips I have. I absolutely love Merchant Navy unrebuilt, King, Castle, Hall, P2, A1 Tornado, A3, Coronation and Black 5. I do not love Crost 9F and A4. Maybe early ones not so sharp. I believe 9F was first, pre-fitted into a railroad Crosti? What I hate about this is the whistle ending abruptly cutting off the echo. Sounds awful. A4 should have a better array of whistle/horns for such a popular loco. By contrast Merchant Navy has loads, eg a wonderful "passing whistle" and "strange whistle", both of which are fantastic. Why not make more effort with A4? However I may be being too harsh as mine possibly soundsparticularly awful due to bad sepaker. Sorry if that's a veer off topic. Anything to avoid doing my tax return. IF ONLY Hornby products were tax deductable 🤔

For the BoB, the closest would be Merchant Navy, which is basically a heavier loco of the same class. Hornby do unrebuilt https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/tts-sound-decoder-merchant-navy.html and rebuilt https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/tts-sound-decoder-merchant-navy-rebuilt.html I have the unrebuilt in my West Country Class (basically same as BoB class). It is probably my favourite TTS sound decoder with a large array of whistles and great sound for the small price. As for the Schools Class I would have guessed Castle or Hall (although they have 4 and 2 cylinders respectively, not 3 like Schools). Both of these are great chips. I have read that 3 cylinder A1/A3, A4 would match but horn/whistle sounds would be way off. Do you prefer accuracy with your whistles or your chuffs 😀. Jenny Kirk discusses this and chose an S15 chip and this video shows her fitting one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znzmvZUGGpY&ab_channel=JenniferE.Kirk -

Recently found a second hand Stepney R3780. Excellent value locos for what you get! Absolutely love it. However it is running badly. Stops on every point unless run at speed, speed set way too high, stops and starts jerkily, etc. I am using Railmaster on a large layout with the default RM R3780 settings. It does not look dirty and the pick ups are against the rims and it runs okay on a rolling road. I do not believe it is my layout though, as all other locos run fine. I'm trying to work out what is due to the loco itself and what decoder settings can be changed (obviously to calm down the speed, decceleration, etc). After initially planning on a Hornby decoder, for the first time I decided to try a Zimo MX617F due to the stay alive function but I am now regretting it as the default values are obviously incorrect and, while I have programmed umpteen TTS chips and understand basic CV language, I am finding the Zimo instructions just too complicated. Any simple programming tips or advice from Terrier owners? Thanks :-)

1) Can someone explain why only a single model (BR Std 2MT) is marked as "new tool". Obviously the 9Fs and P2s must be due to price? OP stated the 9F is but why is this not clearly marked? Did you find that out on the You Tube presentation? Please let us know whoch ar new tool if you are in the know! This is quite important for me as I just shelled out on a Centenary Evening Star and the older decorated version of P2 Cock. 2) Great idea making some of the £200+ models with a flicker box and die cast even if it only the footplate. I initially got excited as I thought that might mean the foot board/running board but I guess not as the flicker box and die cast foot plate are possibly one unit? Anyway lights of any kind a get me excited. The lit 4/6 wheel coaches also look nice in all the different liveries. Princesses look good too. 3) Are the streamlined bodied W1 and P2 using A4 toolings I wonder? How similar were the bodies originally originally?

Any equivalents? Surely it is just a small 6pin decoder? I am no decoder expert!!

006. Hornby TTS Decoder (Steam) I have R3396TTS. I noticed same model reviewed by Sam's Trains has same issue.

Just nabbed a Crosti 9F with fitted TTS but is it me or does the long whistle stop too abruptly? It is almost like the sound file is not long enough and cuts short? It is really bugging me. Completely different to A1/A3 sound which has a lovely echo at the end. Also two burst whistle is a bit pathetic. I also have at least another 6 or more TTS chips and I have never complained about them, apart from the ridiculous guard's whistle, maybe. I also got a centenary Evening Star 9F but am reticent to get the same Crosti sound decoder. What would be a better alternative? Maybe I shoul;d venture beyond TTS??

I love a TTS but which on earth would you fit into a rocket?? Just to be clear, consensus is Zimo MX617F (6-pin wired)? Unfortunately they are completely unavailable!!

I don't agree with it but obviously people see value in them. DId you not hear about the £250,000 fetched for a bag full of sealed Star Wars toys from the 70s/80s. This is big business. People have too much money. Look at the art world!! It would be interesting to find out the actual numbers manufactured which would establish which models are genuinely valuable. I imagine Murdoch must have been the most limited relsease. Flying Scotsman is also very popular. Such a shame as would love to buy them all for my boy, who has a lot of the latest models before discontinuation. I paid over £40 each to get him Duck, Bill and Ben. Anyone know manufacture numbers?

Hi, I have bought a lovely West Country Class but cab ladder snapped and broken piece got lost. Where on earth could I find a replacement and would removing old ladder cause more damage? Thanks, Chris

Many thanks for your replies, I have done as suggested and contacted Hornby direct. They were helpful finding me an equivalent traction tyre for James and Edward so hopefully good luck again!

Hi folks, I cannot find these spares anywhere, does anyone know of an equivalent? Thanks, Chris

Yes, sorry, you didn't need my life story before the relevant bit! Yes I am relieved it's working because it's my second one and my second thread about this model! It's a beauty and rare and expensive. Thanks for your help Al. I always hope these threads will be useful in future.

Thanks Guys. For a future reference search for this issue I have done a how to video of the fix I did for this.

I think we might be talking about a different system. Mine has a plate with one screw and a 'gully' in which the axle of the pony trap sits. The gully is deep enough that the axle can move up and down 2 - 3 mm, which gives it quite a bit of mobility. This is the problem as the wheels can also tilt, one end of the axle touching the top of the gully and the other end of the axle touching the fixing plate so the axle is diagonal. Anyway I have found a solution which I believe is the same fix as Chris. I cut a paper clip down to slightly less than the width of the axle and I popped it into the 'gully' beneath the axle, held in by the plate. This has effectively raised the pony truck wheels. This video explains it so much better than I can in words:

So this is intersting. The wheels on this pony truck I would definitely not describe as rigid. My Mallard R3736 and Tornado have the same system. They do not rotate, I think that is what you mean by rigid? I am pretty sure you are right and that the wheels are sitting to low to skate on top and 'not get involved'. I might try to cut a straightened paper clip to the width of the axle and pop it between the axle and the plate. Maybe the cocktail stick will work better, a bit wider maybe? Sorry atom I am still not understanding your method. Lockdown dementia I think!

Thanks folks. The pony truck is not fixed or flanged but it is very mobile in its housing, able to move up/down more than I would expect and possibly more than it should. Due to this 'superior/inferior play' it can even tilt with one wheel on the rail and the other down, next to the rail, getting caught, hence the problem. Chris and atom I think you have the right idea what is happening here. I am interested to know more about how exactly you fixed it. I cannot see how I can bend the screw-on end plate that holds the pony truck in place to solve the problem like you Atom. Chris, what you say makes sense but what would I put behind the end plate, beneath the axle itself? Does it have to be cylindrical so it does not imede the free running of the pony truck wheels. I realise that they are not important for the running and difficult to even see but I would like the engine to 'run properly'. I was thinking of a tiny pencil lead shaped bit of metal cut to the size of the axle, so pushing the pny truck wheels further up into the houseing but not so far that the wheels are jammed.

Got my replacement FS 3508TTS this week new out of the box... ...but it started derailing repeatedly. I first suspected the front bogie but after many experiments it is the wheels of the pony truck that are getting caught on the rail when the loco goes around a corner, particularly a double-bend I have on my lay out. So insteaad of the pony truck skating on top of the rails, the right pony truck wheel will get stuck on the right side of the right rail as the loco pivots to take a left corner, and when the loco front end tries to pivot back to the right to take a right bend it cannot due to the right pony truck 'holding the rear out' to the left and it derails. It runs fine with the pony truck removed. All other locos take the double bend at high speed with ease (3rd/4th radius). The pony truck does seem quite mobile within it's housing, it is able to tilt so one wheel is on the rail and the other is caught at an angle so the axle is diagonal. It seems the ponytruck is not rigid enough and is able to slip about too much. I have taken the wheels off and put them back but no difference. Question is how to fix it?? Hope this make sense.