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M. Matthews

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Posts posted by M. Matthews

  1. Also worth recognising that the 73/9 models from Hornby are just livery/numbers on the earlier 73 classes and do not reflect the lighting or grill configurations of the later sub-class; I don’t believe any manufacturer has tooled the later variant yet…So, if you’re trying to replicate a prototype find one that is an earlier class or be prepared to do major surgery!

     

     

    Now this makes sense! Although I feel a bit cheated. As I work for Network Rail, I was trying to replicate something I see whilst I’m out on track but I may just have to focus on something else completely. Thanks for the info.

  2. @topcat & @ColinB

    Thank you very much for your suggestions.

    The decoders are standard hornby 8 pin decoders. I did hope that there might just be somewhere to solder wires in but I really am a beginner when it comes to stuff like this so I guess I could be way off.

    ColinB you are definitely right about the chassis! Not really sure how it would work but I’d hoped maybe someone has done it before without too much surgery.

    I may have to look at the other class 73 on the market, although I’ve heard quite a lot of negative about this model.

  3. I have a pair of Gbrf Class 73’s that I’m trying to get up to a decent standard but being railroad models, they do not come with any sort of lighting.

    I’m looking for some advice on the best way to get some lighting in them as I haven’t been able to find any specific kit for this model.

    Also, it appears that the position of the “dummy” lights on this model do not match the positions on the real thing.

    The models are dcc chipped and I’m extremely limited in knowledge on how I would wire these in. Is there anything available similar to the traintech range than are battery powered and triggered by movement to make this easier?

    Both models would only need lighting on one end as I always run them in the same formation with network rail coaches although they would need to be able to change between white and red depending on direction of travel.

    Am I best off just taking them to a professional? I hope I have provided enough information and I thank you all for any advice you may have.

  4. yay it works!
    I think the spacing between tracks is standard. The problem I have wiht express points is their odd length. They don't easily fit into a layout like a normal point, and you need lots of fiddly little bits to correct the parralell tracks to have joints next to each other again.
    XYZ

     

     

    Try the Peco ST-202? It seems to be about the length of 2 R610. Doesn’t make too much difference but at least eliminates a track join.

     

     

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  5. If you look in any model railway mag, you will find adverts for companies that will make exactly what you require. They usually have a selection of standard sizes that can be ordered from stock, as well as a custom size 'made to measure' order capability.

     

     

    I’m aware of these companies. It’s more that I’m after something that I can pick up easily from a home or hardware store. But thanks!

  6. To start with, I have zero carpentry skills, so building my own baseboard / table isn’t really an option.

    For the life of me I cannot find a suitable table that fits requirements. I’m looking for some sort of table that is about 150-180cm long, 40-50cm in width and 95cm-105cm in height. The idea being that 4/5 of these tables can be attached to create an end to end layout which can be separated to put away. Preferably with folding legs.

    I know that’s all quite specific but surely there must be something around? Any help would be appreciated!!

  7. First picture to show just how poorly those figures are painted. The choice of colours is also rather questionable. I’ve not made any attempt to repaint as it’s beyond my capability, but I guess a thin coat of primer might make the job easier?

    Second picture to show how the look in a lit carriage. I thought the poor quality could be hidden but unfortunately, I think it still shows so I stopped after 3 figures. I guess the size issue isn’t as bad as I thought but I guess they could pass for kids.

    Third picture is of some other figures that I got from the large rainforest company. I think they’re made by Evemodel and are 1:87/ HO scale. It was £18 for 60 figures. Whilst they’re not the best, I feel this are acceptable for placing inside a carriage and definitely more wallet friendly than that of Prieser or Noch. I did have to chop some legs but this isn’t really noticeable from the outside and width wise they squeezed in my old Lima coaches ok. Just some strategic choice of figure placement required.

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  8. I bought a pack of those 1:100 scale people and they are of exceptionally poor quality. Looks like the figures have just been dipped in paint. I fitted a couple to one of my coaches and you can just about see the tops of the passengers heads.

  9. I've tried some of the ones off ebay with mixed results. I fitted some to convert my airfix / dapol mk2 coaches which were the correct height, but now I have to use short kadees for reasonable distance between coaches when coupling. Use of a normal tension lock coupling with these sockets resulted in an extremely wide gap.

  10. Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd just add to this one.

    Would any of these coaches have survived in olive green into early br days? And would it be appropriate to have them hauled by a br black loco?

    Again, this is for exhibition purposes so unfortunately rule 1 does not apply.

    Many Thanks

  11. 1.) Don't build a layout using first radius curves. If space is too tight, look at a smaller scale.

    2.) If you do use first radius curves, don't buy lots of stock that obviously cannot run on them.

    3.) Build the layout in sections that can be dismantled so that you don't have to destroy it when moving house.

    4.) Pick an era & location. I didn't and now I'm in the mindset of just wanting everything.

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