Matthew Gotts

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and constructive advice. Sorry I didn't reply earlier, it's all a bit mad at work and by the end of the day I don't want to be on the computer any longer! Interesting advice on the Decalfix issues - I'd had problems with them sticking to my finger as well so will try diluting it. This model is the only one where the solution curled the decals so I suspect age is a factor. One to remember as I've got a couple of old Monogram kits in the loft of similar vintage...

Thanks Ratch, might explain why my laptop slowed down so much as the pics were 4000 pixels wide to start with! Hopefully here are the rest:

After a slightly extended pause in building this model (somewhere between 20 and 25 years as life got in the way), I finally finished my Airfix HH-53C Super Jolly Green Giant. Had a few issues, partly trying to get the hang of filling gaps properly which is still a learning item, and unfortunately some of the raised rivets/panel lines got ‘lost’ after a bit! This was my first go at airbrushing a model and I learnt a bit there too, like why my supposedly airbrush ready paints stopped working (nozzle cap was gummed up). Not the tidiest in places, and also found out that I need to think about construction sequencing and painting – there is a little bit of exposed primer somewhere underneath those engine pods! Main headache was the decals. I suppose it’s down to their age as they were starting to yellow, but when I used decalfix on one side of the fuselage the decals all started curling up like crazy, especially the thin ones round the windows. This was after a coat of gloss varnish to help them to stick. Ended up using a little bit of Pritt-Stick on a cocktail stick t get them to adhere and sprayed matt varnish over them. Just used water on the other side as didn't dare risk the same again! Colours may not be 100% accurate but I blame the need to convert from Airfix colour codes to Vallejo via Humbrol! Quite pleased with my masking, especially the black parts round the top of the aircraft. Will post more photos later, trying to do several on one post proving troublesome...

Thanks for the supportive comments, it's much appreciated! I'm looking forward to having a bash with the airbrush on a model for the first time - I figure nothing to lose!! The kit certainly is proving interesting...

So, on the principle that I had nothing to lose I had a go at stretching sprue to try and rebuild the melted part. Took a few goes to get some as the plastic kept snapping rather than stretching, it felt more 'rubbery' than I remember, different formula? Anyway, as the collage shows I managed to do it, much to my delight given how small the bits are and how bad my dexterity/eyesight is! Doesn’t bear up to close scrutiny but it holds the undercarriage up and fits which is a win from my perspective. Glad to have got this one done, not the tidiest as it had a few issues but I’m learning. Now onto a very old kit I part started well over 20 years ago and one I’ll try my airbrush out on for the camo.

Many thanks for all the helpful tips and advice, what a great forum! Will have to check out the brass rod option with an eye to future kits, but won't bother with this one too much. Have done some sprue stretching in years past so will give that a go to see if I can replace the damaged part of the undercarriage, will post pics if it goes anywhere near to plan! I know I'm going to have to repair another kit I've got at some point which is a bit more important to me (one my late dad had and never got started due to illness so I want to do it "right" for him), so I'm glad in some ways to have these disasters now so I know what not to do in the future!! Thanks again, Matt

Morning, hope this is the correct sub-forum, please let me know if not! I'm building a few starter kits to get back into modelling so appreciate that they won't turn out perfectly as they are effectively practice kits. However, I've run into a couple of issues on the subject title model which doubtless will reoccur elsewhere and wondered if anyone has any tips or advice. Firstly how do folks straighten parts, particularly thin delicate ones, that have got bent in the box? Part of the Defiant's undercarriage was a bit bent, so I decided to try and warm it up over a tealight candle to help it move back into shape. On reflection not the best move - the heat caused the part to shrivel up so I've now lost a part, unless I can work out how to scratch build one which is unlikely! The other matter is that the pitot tube part is broken in half on the sprue (it's held by each end so snapped in the middle). I tried gluing it while still on the sprue but in the process of putting the sprue in and out of the box it snapped again and I'm uncertain how strong a fix will be once removed from the sprue. I used plastic cement to make the first repair, perhaps superglue would be better? Any tips would be appreciated so I can address these issues in the future, and possibly use them to rescue the current model! Thanks, Matt

I know what you mean - every chart/website seems to slightly disagree! The one I mentioned above is odd as in some places it lists the same RGB values for at least 3 different Humbrol shades! In the end I decided as the model was just for my pleasure and not for display/sale etc it didn't necessarily need to be 100% accurate in colours; given it's age I've already converted colours from the old Airfix codes on the instructions so who knows what it will look like in the end!

Thanks for that, much appreciated. Of course, typically one of the paints I needed to convert (Humbrol 166) doesn't have a Model Air equivalent listed! I did a bit more surfing of the web and came across a VERY large conversion chart that also lists by RGB, so you can see what else are close. There should be a clever website allowing you to view it but with Flash gone it doesn't work so they put up the PDF, if anyone's interested it's at: https://www.paint4models.com/Paint%20Conversion%20Chart%202010-2021.pdf You'll have to put that link in a browser or select it in Chrome and right click>Go to address. I've now ordered the Model Air paints I need, so will see how things go!

Just come across this thread as I'm trying to convert Humbrol to Vallejo ModelAir and found the same issue where there seem to be differing opinions as to what the conversion is. Unfortunately, probably due to the website change, the link above doesn't work - is there still a way to view this online without buying the physical chart?

I'm not having to reset my password, but it doesn't remember me even though I tick the 'remember me' button, so each time I revisit the page I'm logged out. Not a biggie as I just click log-in as my browser saves my details, just a bit strange that it doesn't keep me logged in. Checked my cookie settings and I haven't blocked any.

Many thanks for the replies above, all makes sense. Looks like I need to try the sprays another time of year when not so cold, or go with brushing or airbrushing varnish. Airbrush may need to move up the priority list!

(I seem to be having issues posting, so hoping this works this time!) Evening, hoping for some advice on issues I’m having using Humbrol spray acrylic varnishes. I’m practicing using starter sets as I’m getting back into the hobby, and had problems with both matt and gloss. I’ve been applying these in the garage due to fumes, which may be partly the issue I understand for the matt at least. The first model I glossed was OK albeit I didn’t spray enough on, so on the second I made sure it was a ‘wet’ coat to give good coverage. Unfortunately the paint then crazed up, mostly on the bottom of the model as per the photo. I did have problems with the paint on the bottom (applied over Humbrol spray acrylic primer) as the starter set paint had gone a bit thick and in thinning it I went too far so ended up with 4-5 coats on the bottom (applied by brush). However, some of the other colours have crazed but not as badly. For the matt, I applied this over the gloss on the first model I glossed and got the frosting effect. I tried re-glossing and re-matting but it didn’t make much difference. Example below. Wondering if I’d be better off brushing the varnish on instead? Any advice or confirmation as to what caused the issues, particularly the cracking would be appreciated as I’ve got other kits I want to do that I don’t want being messed up like this, once I’ve graduated back from starter sets. Thanks, Matt

Many thanks, I'll explore further!

Evening, hope I've posted this in the correct forum as I'm new here, apologies if not. As the title, after a gap of about 25 years I'm getting back to modelling, having confirmed I enjoy it still after buying a cheap starter kit (Spitfire) which I have now finished. Digging through the loft I've found a couple of kits that are part or un-started and am looking to use those before buying anything further but I've hit a conundrum over the paints. The kit I'm looking to complete is an old Airfix Sikorsky HH53-C Super Jolly Green Giant, and due to age the paints are all Airfix codes. Thanks to the internet (and this forum) I've been able to find the Humbrol codes, but it seems some colours (eg 116 US Dark Green) are only available in enamel. I was thinking about getting an airbrush (and found the other threads on that subject very useful), but was planning on using acrylic paint largely due to ease of use, particularly as it's been a while since I've used enamel. The box picture shows the camoflage has been sprayed on as it's got a nice fuzzy edge so I was hoping to replicate. So my issue is that if I use the correct colours, I either have to use alternative acrylics from Tamiya for example, where there isn't a Humbrol equivalent (mixing types), or take the plunge and see if I can airbrush enamels. What would the suggestions be - is airbrushing enamels that tricky or should I just stick to a brush for now? Thanks for any suggestions, looking forward to getting stuck in!