Pedro1707822406

Thank yous

Good evening everybody. A simple one for you that are more experienced than me... Points/Turnouts. I know its bad practice to place a point straight after a bend, My question is... What is an acceptable straight to have? Is a R600 sufficient or should it be an R60? Does it matter? thankyou

Bit of a newbie question regarding programming of the decoders, as the 7 car set requires 4, have all 4 carriages that contain the chips needed to be placed on the programming track simultaneously at time of programming or could they all be done separately but set to the same number?

Just had email about my pre order of APT 7 pack. My question is regarding these packs is, in Hornbys online shop there are two 5 car packs being R30104 & R3873 and two 7 car packs being R30229 & R3874. What is the difference between both sets of these that contain the same amount of cars? Also, is it correct that the difference between the 5 pack and 7 pack is the front face of the leading cars one having black windows, the other just yellow and lastly, any truth in a review I've read that the First Class coaches don't have a yellow indicator stripe on it despite promo images showing this? So many questions, excited that's all grinning

Thankyou, now I know I've not missed anything obvious I shall return it. cheers.

Hello...I back again :( I Purchased new Hornby R3944 BR Intercity Class 43 HST Train Pack beginning of summer and only just got round to setting it up. Problem I'm having is, forgive me I'm new to DCC, is that when I apply the dummy car to track it creates a short circuit. My loco is fine and i have no problems with any other rolling stock, dummy cars or locos at all. I'm using the Elink along with Hornby's Railmaster software. I'm posting here first incase there's a simple fix, something obvious I'm missing? If its a complex issue I will just send back to Hornby see what they have to say. I've added some pictures if any help...thank you in advance for taking time to look. Its not something silly like needing another decoder in the dummy car or removing the blanking plate is it?

Lol I’m looking for the like button 👍 Moderator comment - this forum doesn't have one.

OK Thank you. I've purchased one to enable me to test on DC, am I correct in thinking it needs to be inserted to enable DC? Also is there a wrong way to install it? Anyway purple stowed, isolated out of way. Just leaves those red wires although my eyes can’t see anything wrong as such, they are not loose so will ignore that for time being. I shall report back with findings next week once I’ve been able to test analogue, I’ve ordered a new decoder to for tomorrow, I’ve a feeling with it reading the CV this won’t be the problem though. cheers.

Thanks you. I can’t say that I’ve smelt or can smell any burning from chip. Would I still be able to read the CV if chip had burnt out? As for trying it on DC, I can’t find blanking plug for the loco, I’ve a stomach churning feeling that it’s been thrown out along with decoder packaging, I think this is needed to run analogue isn’t it? If so can you buy them?

Good morning Hornbiers. Only had my track up a week so I’m very fresh to this. I have a problem with a particular loco, the new hornby Eurostar. Its been running fine for 3 days, only had about 2 hours running time though in that and suddenly it creates a short circuit when I apply power to her. I say other locos are fine so I’m happy that it’s this loco. On further examination with body of, I can see the purple wire is disconnected from the chip. It’s a Hornby decoder. Should this wire be connected to the plug? On trying to find out more about this purple wire the fact that it’s ‘function A’ I’m unsure if it’s unconnected for sound or something. Does chip need replacing or is the purple touching something and just needs stowing? Any pointers into what fault finding steps I should make be welcome Thanks in advance.

Ok I'm on my third new E-Link now and got it connected. Amazon must hate me lol. Installed up and running 24 hours and I have to say though its far from stable and a lot has to do I'm guessing with the start up sequence as previously mentioned. I have to physically remove power to the elink just prior to starting Rail master's software. it works about 75% of the time. Removing and reinserting the USB does not have the same effect as I would of expected. Power restart seems to be the answer for any future queries. It's far from perfect but its workable. I don't agree it should be like this but go on. My thanks to everybody who's contributed and helped me.

Thankyou for your quick reply and help. I don't know what I'm doing wrong here so if I'm following instructions correctly ok saved. checked properties afterwards and 115200 value has remained. Located railmaster.ini Deleted 4 rows as mentioned then added 2 lines Alternative Comms=1 Check controller=1 at the end/bottom. saved the file (this is saved copy) Closed Railmaster Opened Railmaster pressed green tick unplugged USB and reinserted USB Still wont connect. Am I doing something wrong :(

2ooops...sorry, forgot attach these two pictures of settings.

Firstly let me say sorry for swearing, I cant remember what I said now but lets not dwell on that too much. Thankyou for your patience and your time taken in helping people replying. please find pictures following, my elink is set to com 3, when power is disconnected this com vanishes and we connects once plugged in. i have followed process into updating elink's firmware, I'm assuming from error the latest firmware is installed. I cant remember what if any edits I've made to the .ini file over the week. I have though followed instructions of adding elink first, then downloading Railmanager from Hornby's link provided and not used cd at all... then closing rail manager and restarting etc. just same all the time. Here's hoping the answer is in the ini.file somewhere. Unlike Steve's my rail manager background isn't pink background and i was unable to access the .ini file via the question mark in rail master but navigate to it. here's my full content of it continued finally heres a shot of my railmaster... i tick these options and sumetimes it tells me to re plug in elink after 5 seconds with the same results. Again thankyou for your time in helping people.

hello all...am both following this post and have followed instructions here. Is anybody actually running Rail master on windows 10? its making me pull my hair out and fall out of love with my new set I've had a week and not had running yet. this is my introduction to digital :( My 2nd E-link as first one I thought was faulty. You shouldn't have to resort to forums for advice like this...it should be straight forward in this day and age. Thanks all that have contributed to this topic. Last call is ive emailed Hornby's techsupport. I'm so close to putting a hammer to it, so frustrating :( Moderator message: your post has been edited to remove a swear word, do not put it back