Potterton

Thank you for your replies gentlemen. I'm away from home until around the 8th April, so will post some pics upon my return However, they are both the ringfield bogie type so X8466 is probably the way to go. Thanks again.

Good evening All. Can anyone please tell me the part number for carbon brushes for the Hornby Class 37 and class 47 diesels, 1970/80's models, (viz 37130 and 47421)? Thanks in advance.

Why get rid of it? I'd say it looks nicely weathered.

morairamike said "My track is laid on pre-ballasted foam. Now, yes, I thought it would degenerate but it is now 4½ years old and still fine. The shoulders are loose ballast laid with ballast glue, a kind of PVA." I have attached a couple of photo's showing part of my layout laid in this way. In this case, the underlay is the Peco variety which, in my experience, is not as long lasting as the Hornby product. Regarding morairmike's concerns re. the disintegration or "failure" of the underlay, I wold like to add that this part of my layout was built in 1993 and the ballast is still fine. However, I admit that were I to lift the track the underlay would probably fall apart in my hands.

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you as I have never attempted this, but what an absolutely fantastic video! Lovely to watch. Thank you. grinning

@ntpntpnrp Possibly, but normally when a short circuit occurs the transformers/controllers hum loudly. With this loco they don't. I was suspecting a broken wire or connection somewhere, but that doesn't really make much sense to me as it runs one way, but not the other. This is only the second Heljan locomotive I've bought and I've never taken one apart before.

Well I bought a loco, (Heljan Clayton Class 17), fitted with a DCC chip and it wouldn't run on my DC layout. I bought a blanking plate and it ran, in one direction only and rather slowly. I turned the blanking plate around and it still ran in one direction only, the same end leading as before. I also bought a second blanking plate in case the first was faulty, but had the same results. I'm now assuming there is a fault in the loco itself. Just need to figure out how to remove the body. (Centre section is easy, it's the bonnets, etc. which are the problem.)

Many thanks LT&SR_NSE . That's perfect.

Seems to be a day for it having seen Kristain-353752's thread below. Unfortunately I haven't found the answer. I'm trying to remove the body from a Hornby Class 58 diesel. I don't know the R number, but it is made in Britain, in BR grey with the large logo, has Network Rail markings and has the number 58007. I am aware the cab ends are separate to the main body, but cannot see how to remove any of the components from the chassis. It's probably me, (though I do have an appointment at Specsavers next month), but any assistance would be most gratefully received before I carry on and break something. Many thanks.

Thank you ntpntpntp. That is most helpful. Should I acquire such a loco, I shall definitely remove the chip. At my age I have no intention of changing to DCC and after a lifetime of collecting locomotives I do not have the funds or time to convert all my stock, (especially the funds! face_with_rolling_eyes)

Hello All. What I know about DCC could be written on the back of a postage stamp so if my question appears stupidly obvious please forgive my ignorance. I was recently told a locomotive fitted with a DCC chip will run perfectly fine on a DC layout with the chip in place. Simply put, is this true? I thought that a chip would need to be removed and a blanking plate reinstated. (Hopefully, the General Discussion section is the right place to post this.)

@Rana Temporia You are right. The original loco's didn't have buffers. My first train set, (when I was 3 years old; I'll be 63 next month!), was The Dockmaster. One of those clockwork engines, a red open wagon and a blue fish van with a circle of Super 4 track. I still have it, (see attached photo), and it still works. The only differences are that it never had the BR totem or rods on the wheels. Incidentally I also have a pair of those coaches acquired sometime later; one from amongst a load of railway "stuff" I got from my cousin who had never shown any real interest and one from a neighour's son.

The scenic section of my layout has quite generous radii on the curves, (36" and above), but in the hidden fiddle yard in order to gain siding length I resorted to using second radius curved track. Unfortunately in my haste and admitted carelessness I used a number of sections of first radius curves. Fortunately, I have found that this has not presented any problems of any sort to any of my locomotives or rolling stock including a 9F, a 28XX and a Hornby A4, the latter with fixed pony truck wheels. All run through with no suggestion of derailing at all speeds. Aesthetically though they do not look great doing it, but as I say, it is only in the hidden sidings.

@ellocoloco Didn't Willis' in Maryport Street, Devizes stock GF? They were an excellent model and toy shop, toys downstairs and models, (mainly railways), up. Mr Willis would always go out of his way to help and his assistant, Mrs Gummer was a pleasure to talk to. Both knew their stuff and if they didn't have it, they could get it for you. It's now a general toy shop, (Devizes Toys), with little in the way of model railways apart from train sets.

@Deem That is a very useful link Deem. Thank you.