MashaFX

I have 2 LED's out on my ARC PRO, everything else works fine. When turning on, the LED for power and for the LED for the white button doesn't illuminate. Where can I get the replacement LED board? Thank you

In order of preference!!! #1 Throttle Curve: Sigmoid All the curves are either or, non have both. Having the extreme power boost at 1 end or the other, only gives us fine control at that end. Having curve A as a default isn't so good for new drivers. They start getting used to it and speed up a bit, ZOOOM off they go. At the top end, too much changes too quickly. #2 Max Speed: 88% 75% is too slow, 88% is where it's at, takes the edge off. I'm sure we had this added to the 6 car APB for the same reason, why not the APP. Kers might help here but we had that on. #3 Garage: Barcode Scanner. Most of my cars weren't even in the garage, which was dissapointing. It would be amazing to just scan the car and BOOM! Now that's showing off. Use of the camera on the display device. Also, photos for the driver ported straight in. #4 Time behind leader: Ok we don't get much chance to look at this but it's for sure a "it even does this" feature, when showing friends. PLEASE! PLEASE!!! AND THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just tried this on an Iphone X and I was very disappointed via the screen wastage. However, I think this might be due to the hi res of the iphone. Everything was way too small, hard to see, yet other videos show the info boxes filling up most of the screen. Installation went perfect.

Now I need to rotate my track. First test with app and I have it backwards. I thought they'd put the digital sensor as close to the edge on the long straight to enable it to be put as close to a corner as possible whilst minimising the chance of power slide missed laps. Nope! The digital sensor is on the other end. I may remove the power base completely from the track and run wires to it.

Now I need to rotate my track. First test with app and I have it backwards. I thought they'd put the digital sensor as close to the edge on the long straight to enable it to be put as close to a corner as possible whilst minimising the chance of power slide missed laps. Nope! The digital sensor is on the other end. I may remove the power base completely from the track and run wires to it.

Here's another 1 for you gorp. Isn't the power base the wrong way round? Surely, due to how power slides work and missing sensors, having the Digital sensor the other side of the track so placing it directly after a corner or half straight, corner, could now be a thing. This was my initial thinking to it being that way but i had it the wrong way round.

Slot Forum International

No to your No. It would of been easier. Non of us would of had issues. Not doing anything wouldn't of worked either. As connecting the power base would simply short out everytime connecting it. But yes it would of made me feel beter and a lot of other users too. We wouldn't have to come up with bodged solutions or try things like have pitlanes merging into 1 lane passing the power base or using things powered off track, mad crazy set ups. 1 switch would of prevented all of those issues. I'm not mad about it. I have all kinds of modded chopped up pieces of track but I'm also not wrong about it.

Yes... Racing Line Chicanes. They're in the 'Teesside New Build' thread

I think MashaFX is using pre-existing dead spots in the curved cross-overs but flipping the polarity of one of the lanes... nice solution for keeping curved lane changers in play... so long as you are happy using cross-overs too. Flipped polarity terminology is perfectly clear to me. C Yes this is exactly as I've done. I don't think Gorp has understood by explination. My solution isn't good for those who don't like Cross-Overs in their track. But, for those who do, much better than chopping up a section and adding more deadspots. The Cross-Over polarity flip is also a lot easier to do, no soldering required.

Ahhh! so the cars (toys as you call them) only ever pass over 1 lane of the start finish line. The other lane remains unconnected to any track. Yes that would work but what about close finishes? This always forces 1 car behind the other, every lap. I suppose I'll get that single lane I wanted but I didn't want it over the start finish line. It also won't look very good and is an expensive waste of pitlane pieces, which are way too long anyways, especialy 2 in the same straight.

I'm not sure i get this pit lane right after Powerbase option. It's also worth noting, the flipped polarity doesn't have to be right after and before power base. We can place them anywhere in the track, as long as they seprate the shorting lane changer from the power base section.

I will be modding the PB at some point. I did mention it earlier. However, for now I'm not going to be messing with the PB, not until everything is fully tested. Have you seen my racing line chicanes? They're quite rare.

I know and I know it's not a new complaint. I spent ages reading about it. My post above yours was simply a reply to andy's defensive stance on the issue. When we all know the best repply would of been, "Yes the switch would of been a good idea but there isn't one".

This is all good and well but the extra 10p in production to include a polarity revers of 1 lane, because of the extra features it would offer users and still enable Anlogue compatability (for those who want it), not including it wasn't a good choice. No one would of complained about the switch, it might of confused some users who need help. But... It's absence has clearly been an issue. The main reason some users have reverted back to the APB. I love the wireless controllers too much so I will be sticking with ARC. It was a request I made when first buying a digital set many years ago. It'd be wrong for me to not jump on board. Thank you Scalextric. Everything so far is perfect, just the switch, 1 switch!

@Dr_C Just digital. It has annoyed me slightly that they invested into the backwards compatibilty with Analogue on Digital but not CLC. Not that I use CLC, I mod them into racing line chicanes. I've always wanted a track that merged both lanes at some point. I also love to include only 1 corner crossover. This forces those who don't change lanes into the other lane, kind of doubling track length, longer to learn, incouraging the use of lane changing. For now I've flipped the polarity using 2 corner crossovers. This means we don't have to cut any more deadspots into the track. Flip under the dead spot of the crossover.

I didn't want to open up the PB track yet, but I will. For now I've done the X wire, with out cutting my track, flipping the wire of 1 lane in 2 corner crossovers, avoiding putting more dead spots in the track.

Does that mean it's only the 2017 version, is there a newer revised version that fixes the issue?

Scaley could of gave us a switch. What's a switch? I get the want everything to be fancy and automatic but this is far from automatic.Can i simply reverse the power to the rail on Arc Pro? Yes naughty but would it work? Would it interfere with the sensors electonic for that lane? I have racing line chicane lane changers.

I have 'racing line' chicane lane changers. No fair scaley. I guess today is a day of more modding not racing.

We need the APP to work on PC, via the port or WiFi. Many of us have PC's (old PC's) running our set ups and want this especially for the wirelsss controllers. Using a phone or ipad is no good as many already have a big screen on the wall.RCS64 does have more features but it's often too complicated and ugly. The simplicity of the APP coupled with WIRELESS controllers is easily the win, worth the upgrade from APB but no PC APP!!!