Andrew-372848
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Posts posted by Andrew-372848
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I appreciate the new Forums page, being able to see any unread posts and mark any others as read suits how I browse the site. I like the changes, I prefer the changes. (ducks incoming fire!)
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I was thinking the same. Font size appears smaller and I'm not seeing the sub-sections in the sidebar in bold with new messages.
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Here is the fifth (and final) iteration of my TT:120 layout. Board size is 4'x3'.
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1 hour ago, taunmarc88 said:
Thank you for the responses. I’m feeling a bit deflated at the growing list of things I need to get the railway going properly as I’m starting from new. So I need to have a think as we’ve had a few big money things go wrong recently at home and it’s getting harder to justify spends at the moment. I had hoped I could get by with all the bits I had already.
Don't lose heart, this is nothing but a minor setback which should be quite straightforward to resolve. Clear your head and you'll get to the root cause easily enough.
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If that isn't successful try bridging the joint with pieces of wire to prove the dead section is sound, you can tuck the bare ends under the rails if you run out of hands. You may need that soldering iron after all!
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Try applying some pressure on the fishplates at that joint with a screwdriver or similar, they may have lost contact during the ballasting process. I had one siding where connectivity appeared ok when measured, but the weight of a loco passing over the joint was enough to lose contact.
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I got two of the crofts and the church in the current offer. I have to say that the crofts are delightful and the detail in the church is outstanding. They will give a nice impression of a small rural community when I get to that stage in my build.
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Anything goes really. I’m a collector at heart so don’t like to have unnecessary restrictions inhibit my habit!
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Good shout! That’s my points used up nicely. 🙂
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I mention RailMaster just by way of an update on the layout as I appreciate this is not the appropriate section for such discussion, any subsequent queries etc. will be raised in the RailMaster section.
I mentioned earlier my difficulty in keeping a mental note of point settings and on subsequent reflection RailMaster came back to mind. I just run Mac computers and had no luck with RailMaster previously attempting to run it in a virtual Windows machine. However, I unearthed an old 2015 MacBook and set upon installing Windows 10 in a Bootcamp partition and lo and behold 100% success.
So the point of this post is just so say I am very impressed and seriously considering getting a license.
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20 minutes ago, Tim Allen said:
It does look good close up.
Thanks for the photos. I've got the Duchess on preorder so not too long now.
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Changes to loco sidings made. Had to move the engine shed over due to the spacing between the original tracks being wider. Just some tidying up to do.
Thanks for everyone's help and advice.
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11 hours ago, taunmarc88 said:
The best layout is the one that speaks to you! If it doesn’t look right once it’s done then you would have learnt that too. Just a thought, there isn’t a track that leaves the loop if you ever wanted to expand. you’d have to dismantle some of the track.
Maybe, but I have no plans to extend the layout. The prime reason for going for this scale was to replicate (roughly) what I had originally modelled in vintage Dublo 3-rail. In fact my TT baseboard is exactly half of that original baseboard, is light weight with enough scope to keep me happily amused and best of all can be quickly stored away. Of course I’m my own worst enemy, I’d have plenty room for a larger layout if I got rid of my collection of telephones, vintage radios, record players and the other assortment of “stuff” I like to collect!
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13 hours ago, Rallymatt said:
Don’t dismiss awkward movements, it can provide some extra operational interest as you sometimes need to plan several movements ahead, just a thought 😁
That’s very true and perhaps what I was intending with the original layout of this area, but on reflection simpler is probably best for me. When carrying out one of those “awkward movements” I often end up cursing at a derailment because I have forgotten to change point direction! Frustrating, but symptomatic of where I am in life.
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Final configuration of the sidings?
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1 hour ago, taunmarc88 said:
@Andrew-372848 My advice would be to go for the current simpler version and have a story of why the siding is there such as coal merchant / coaling area. My layout is 4ft by 2ft 8. I’ve removed lots of track to allow a scenery for the layout to sit into. I’m more excited about it now than I was when I was determined to overdo it.m with track.
I was tempted by your suggestion, but like you said, I don't want to overdo things (given my yet unproven scenic modelling skills) and I really dislike that siding now! I'm a bit obsessed with the symmetry and look of the track and that siding was quite offensive. For example, one of my favourite pastimes when I worked in Edinburgh was to wander down to Princes Street Gardens at lunch time and position myself directly above the multiple tracks leading into Waverley station and just gaze down the lines (yes sad, I know it).
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2 hours ago, moawkwrd said:
Would a tender loco fit on the single straight in the engine shed though in order to then make it out into those sidings?
I’d be tempted to swap those sidings to the other side of that track layout, so basically swap the R6 curve off the first point into that entire arrangement with the point and have two more sidings there.
Or have the points start one piece earlier so they’re horizontally aligned and can fan out more.
Yes, my Falcon sits quite happily on the single straight, but I like even more your suggestion to move those two sidings to the same side as the others. This should make manoeuvres simpler and easier as none of the sidings will be blocked by another locomotive when occupied.
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Very creative thinking, that scenario would never have crossed my mind!
In my original plan this was the engine shed area where my locos could be displayed when not in service. As I have never been 100% happy with the juxtaposition of the straight siding with the curve of the lead in and I have a spare RH point, I might change it slightly as per the attached plan. I think this might make better use of the space available.
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Quite simply I can’t. I’ll admit it was a bit of an afterthought - spare track and looking to put it somewhere kind of thing. I’ll probably just use it as a parking lot to display yet to be purchased locomotives or maybe add another siding. Better make my mind up soon!!
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I’ve been experiencing baseboard envy recently so I am glad to see postings of smaller layouts appearing, thus encouraged to publish my efforts. I’ve reached the stage with my 4’ x 3’ layout where I have my track laid and running well and a rough idea of what scenic elements I might be able to achieve (I’m not that artistic nor skilled with a craft knife!).
The next stage for me will be to start the ballasting, but before I start I’m wondering where I might place additional signals? I have some from Evemodel, two of which I have planted at the exits from the sidings, and some ground signals from DM Electech in the goods and engine yards. I feel I could introduce more, but am not sure where. They are powered from the Rails Connect accessory decoders, so will switch with the points. Any suggestions welcomed. I’ve attached a couple of short videos which appears to be de rigueur! 
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I initially got the starter pack and after some experimentation found that the Close coupling is optimal for my layout and that is what I've fitted on these and my other rolling stock. However, you might get away with the Extra Close ones if you don't have tight curves or crossovers.
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I only have two of the coaches, but both are a little droopy on both ends compared to the power/dummy locomotive. As you say the attraction of the magnetic couplings compensates for this very well. I seemed to get into a right tangle with the original couplings compared to some of the other rolling stock I had at the time and have now switched entirely to the WHWW ones. I prefer the simplicity of just pulling the rolling stock apart over the ability to shunt with out manual intervention.
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10 hours ago, Dodge1965 said:
So i bought a Polaroid Cube camera online..
I contemplated getting one of those, but was put off by reports that the camera's companion App didn't work on current versions of phone/tablet software. How did you set the Polaroid up and retrieve the footage (which appears to be excellent by the way)? I did buy something similar, but the picture is rubbish - too much judder to be of any use. Thanks.
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On 23/03/2024 at 14:24, Rallymatt said:
I did this on mine when if first came, made a small card bulkhead and set some lead shot in Scenic Cement, the area behind the radiator and then the cab floor up to height of the windows. That additional little bit of weight makes a big difference, I have since also fitted a Zimo decoder and Lais stay alive which takes the model to another level of smooth snail pace operation.
@Rallymatt Just getting back to this. Did you just insert the pellets through the open cab window and possibly squirt some adhesive in to keep them in place? I've got some 3mm ball bearings which I'm hoping to use, but the blighters have a mind of their own and seem to propel themselves at great speed whenever I attempt to pick one up! Thanks.
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I could teach you a thing or two in that department!