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Andrew-372848

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Posts posted by Andrew-372848

  1. 1 hour ago, Dodge1965 said:

    So i went up into the loft and removed all the foam and got 98% of the track connected. Enough to do a few test runs with 7 coaches. I had no issues coulping up and no disconnects with the coaches. The HST run perfect and was a fab end to the weekend...

     

    Yes indeed it is extremely sure footed and very smooth at lower speeds too. That's going to be one fab layout you have there!!

    • Thanks 1
  2. 5 minutes ago, HST Mainline said:

    Regarding couplings: Have you tried taking working couplings from some of your coaches, and put them on the HST to see if they still perform flawless?

    My HST does not couple without help at all. I exchanged the couplings with some from my Pullmans to see if that made a difference. It did. 

    On my HST I found the following:

    The short coupler kinematic in the loco is centered by a spring. That spring pulls a bit too much on the moving part, so the moving part is slightly pointing the coupling upwards. When the TT coupling is not horizontal it becomes unreliable.

    At first, I thought about loosening the spring a bit, but this is a dangerous procedure because if I loosen it too much the centering mechanism will stop working. 

    Instead, I took the least expensive part (the coupling itself) and filed ever so slightly where the hook from the next coach falls into the coupler head (red circle on the drawing). Just a tiny bit, and then try it out. Too much and the coupling will uncouple randomly, so take care here.

    This operation will allow the metal pin to release even if the coupling is slightly pointing upwards. 

    image.thumb.png.9ee62f22d81fb58987c7775cde964e04.png

    Another potential improvement on the HST coupling: The metal part of the coupling has a little hook that grabs into the pocket (that we just filed at bit). On my couplings on the HST this was a bit out of alignment, causing it not to drop freely into the hole, but rather get stuck on the side of the coupling head. This can cause the coupling to jam. With the coupling on its own: Make sure you can "flick" metal part with your fingers from below (like the uncoupler track does) without it getting stuck. It has to move freely up and down.

    Last thing: When the couplings move together, the metal pin slides up the coupler head of the opposing coach. If the angle of the metal hook is slightly off, this procedure will be either very hard or impossible. You can help the coupling by bending the metal hook a tiny bit, until the coupling couples without problems.

    All in all, I think it comes down to the HSTs coupler kinematics being ever so slightly out of alignment (mainly because the spring is pulling too hard on the mechanism). Instead of messing around with the spring and the HST itself, your cheapest option is to sacrifice a coupling to see if you can make it perform better.

    My HST now couples flawless and works with the uncoupler track totally without me helping it. A little filing and a little bending of the hook did it for me.

    Many thanks for this detailed description of the coupler workings, I have never quite understood the mechanism. I'll try and follow your guidance, however I do find working with the smaller items in this scale quite difficult so I'll need a day when my hand/eye coordination is working! 🙂

  3. 17 hours ago, Andrew-372848 said:

    I’ll need to check.

    Checking the Mk3 couplings with the Pullman they are identical and as you might have suspected both coupled/decoupled together without issue. I did do this at eye level, so it looks. like my technique at layout level is lacking or I might need to use a wider implement to raise the hooks. I failed miserably installing the Hornby uncouplers which I have now removed, the sprung ramp would not stay clipped to the rails. 

  4. 12 minutes ago, Silver Fox 17 said:

    I had to physically hand push each pair together quite hard and since I have had no problem being able to leave the set running like I can with all the others.

    Same here, but I can’t leave them on the layout and hence the difficulty uncoupling.

  5. 4 minutes ago, Dodge1965 said:

    Odd.. Not having any issues with the couplers at all. Yes they are what they are, but they are the same on all TT120 products. But i have no history with couplers, maybe that helps me... not sure, i use a 3d printed decoupler or Starbucks stirrer.

    Interestingly I don’t have a problem with my other rolling stock (Pullman coaches and various goods wagons), just this set. I note there are also magnetic couplings on the market, does anyone have experience of those?

    • Like 1
  6. Not loving the couplings on this nor on the coaches. I’m finding that they won’t couple easily and separation is nigh impossible as the hooks become entangled. I’ve had to remove them from the pocket in order to separate them. I’ve read on another thread that there are alternatives (I think it was one of @Rallymatt’s posts) Tillig I believe. So would these be suitable - TILLIG 8840 TT COUPLING FOR NEM COUPLING POCKET? It’s driving me to distraction! 😕

  7. 1 hour ago, TaffsTT said:

    How are you holding that excitement - sleepless night tonight! 😁

    They actually arrived yesterday, but I’ve only managed to unbox them today due to “domestic” issues, so my excitement is still in abeyance until tomorrow when the fun begins. 😀

    • Haha 1
  8. 2 hours ago, ntpntpntp said:

    Could be condensation on the track if the temperature is varying significantly.    I have DCC G scale locos and stock, I used to notice the running would become stuttery in the late summer evenings as the rails cooled.  It's always recommended that electronics (decoders, DCC systems) should be stored in reasonably stable conditions

    Indeed. Hopefully this is just a temporary condition while the house is not adequately heated. 🙂

  9. It’s pretty cold up here in Scotland and a failed central heating system means the dark recesses of the house where my locos etc are stored are pretty baltic. So when I decided to give the layout a quick exercise before the HST arrives today, I was horrified that the locos stubbornly refused to cooperate. 
    My 08 shunter stuttered a few inches and refused to obey my go-faster command, the A1 likewise and the A4 was having none of it without a finger prod or two! Poor things were in hibernation. 
    However, after 10 minutes or so in the warmth things improved and after a further running-in session all was back to normal.
    Perhaps I need to move my collection somewhere warmer or maybe Hornby could add a new loco warmer to any forthcoming range of accessories? 

  10. Well mine arrived today from Rails. Following the Guide posted by @96RAF above my TT 08 shunter was under the App control in minutes. I also could add my Bluetooth enabled locomotives (set to DCC running as I’m currently using the Elite). I can see this will be a boon for those with many legacy locomotives who want to use the App, but for me I’ll keep it in its box until accessory control comes along. Ingenious device though.

  11. 50 minutes ago, 96RAF said:

    To expand on my post yesterday about operating legacy points from the app using the dongle. What I said stands, but if you need to operate points now via the app then you have to use the HM6010 module, which is the bluetooth enabled equivalent of the legacy R8247 v2.0.

    Indeed, I did successfully trial the HM6010 with the App, but my plans changed and I went with discrete decoders for the points instead. Such are the pitfalls of learning on the job! 

  12. 2 hours ago, RDS said:

    If I have read your post correctly, you are hoping to use the legacy Dongle to operate your points?  The HM7000 App does not yet enable you to operate Points.  I have many Points on my layout but I use RailMaster to operate them, which is a simple mouse click on the corresponding Point.

    Yes that was my intention, but as @96RAF pointed out this functionality is not yet available. Instead I'll just familiarise myself with the dongle's capabilities within the App and continue with the Elite meantime. My layout is still under construction, so plenty to do.

  13. 13 minutes ago, gilbo2 said:

    Have you thought about RailMaster or TGG (TGG Info)? Does make life easier to control from a PC/Laptop.

    I did have a look at RailMaster. However, I don’t have any Windows machines and attempted to install it on a VM on my Mac (desktop). It appeared to be working, but did lose comms with the Elite. I wasn’t too impressed with the interface, a bit last century! 

  14. 12 minutes ago, Baz657 said:

    It's annoying to me as I'm solely HM7000 and, apart from running in using DC when it first arrived, my Class 08 is still in the box. I'll probably not be able to use it properly until after the warranty either runs out, or is close to it.

    I was in the same boat, but decided to fork out for an Elite controller as I struggled a little with the HM7000 App on my iPad. I put a Gaugemaster Ruby decoder in my TT:120 08 which works fine. However, I’m also going to try the legacy dongle with the Elite as I now have quite a few DCC point motors which require a fair amount of knob twiddling on the Elite!

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