Andrew-372848

Don't lose heart, this is nothing but a minor setback which should be quite straightforward to resolve. Clear your head and you'll get to the root cause easily enough.

If that isn't successful try bridging the joint with pieces of wire to prove the dead section is sound, you can tuck the bare ends under the rails if you run out of hands. You may need that soldering iron after all!

Try applying some pressure on the fishplates at that joint with a screwdriver or similar, they may have lost contact during the ballasting process. I had one siding where connectivity appeared ok when measured, but the weight of a loco passing over the joint was enough to lose contact.

I got two of the crofts and the church in the current offer. I have to say that the crofts are delightful and the detail in the church is outstanding. They will give a nice impression of a small rural community when I get to that stage in my build.

Anything goes really. I’m a collector at heart so don’t like to have unnecessary restrictions inhibit my habit!

Good shout! That’s my points used up nicely. 🙂

I mention RailMaster just by way of an update on the layout as I appreciate this is not the appropriate section for such discussion, any subsequent queries etc. will be raised in the RailMaster section. I mentioned earlier my difficulty in keeping a mental note of point settings and on subsequent reflection RailMaster came back to mind. I just run Mac computers and had no luck with RailMaster previously attempting to run it in a virtual Windows machine. However, I unearthed an old 2015 MacBook and set upon installing Windows 10 in a Bootcamp partition and lo and behold 100% success. So the point of this post is just so say I am very impressed and seriously considering getting a license.

Thanks for the photos. I've got the Duchess on preorder so not too long now.

Changes to loco sidings made. Had to move the engine shed over due to the spacing between the original tracks being wider. Just some tidying up to do. Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

Maybe, but I have no plans to extend the layout. The prime reason for going for this scale was to replicate (roughly) what I had originally modelled in vintage Dublo 3-rail. In fact my TT baseboard is exactly half of that original baseboard, is light weight with enough scope to keep me happily amused and best of all can be quickly stored away. Of course I’m my own worst enemy, I’d have plenty room for a larger layout if I got rid of my collection of telephones, vintage radios, record players and the other assortment of “stuff” I like to collect!

That’s very true and perhaps what I was intending with the original layout of this area, but on reflection simpler is probably best for me. When carrying out one of those “awkward movements” I often end up cursing at a derailment because I have forgotten to change point direction! Frustrating, but symptomatic of where I am in life.

Final configuration of the sidings?

I was tempted by your suggestion, but like you said, I don't want to overdo things (given my yet unproven scenic modelling skills) and I really dislike that siding now! I'm a bit obsessed with the symmetry and look of the track and that siding was quite offensive. For example, one of my favourite pastimes when I worked in Edinburgh was to wander down to Princes Street Gardens at lunch time and position myself directly above the multiple tracks leading into Waverley station and just gaze down the lines (yes sad, I know it).

Yes, my Falcon sits quite happily on the single straight, but I like even more your suggestion to move those two sidings to the same side as the others. This should make manoeuvres simpler and easier as none of the sidings will be blocked by another locomotive when occupied.

Very creative thinking, that scenario would never have crossed my mind! In my original plan this was the engine shed area where my locos could be displayed when not in service. As I have never been 100% happy with the juxtaposition of the straight siding with the curve of the lead in and I have a spare RH point, I might change it slightly as per the attached plan. I think this might make better use of the space available.

Quite simply I can’t. I’ll admit it was a bit of an afterthought - spare track and looking to put it somewhere kind of thing. I’ll probably just use it as a parking lot to display yet to be purchased locomotives or maybe add another siding. Better make my mind up soon!!

I’ve been experiencing baseboard envy recently so I am glad to see postings of smaller layouts appearing, thus encouraged to publish my efforts. I’ve reached the stage with my 4’ x 3’ layout where I have my track laid and running well and a rough idea of what scenic elements I might be able to achieve (I’m not that artistic nor skilled with a craft knife!). The next stage for me will be to start the ballasting, but before I start I’m wondering where I might place additional signals? I have some from Evemodel, two of which I have planted at the exits from the sidings, and some ground signals from DM Electech in the goods and engine yards. I feel I could introduce more, but am not sure where. They are powered from the Rails Connect accessory decoders, so will switch with the points. Any suggestions welcomed. I’ve attached a couple of short videos which appears to be de rigueur! TT-120 Layout 001.mp4 TT-120 Layout 002.mp4

I initially got the starter pack and after some experimentation found that the Close coupling is optimal for my layout and that is what I've fitted on these and my other rolling stock. However, you might get away with the Extra Close ones if you don't have tight curves or crossovers.

I only have two of the coaches, but both are a little droopy on both ends compared to the power/dummy locomotive. As you say the attraction of the magnetic couplings compensates for this very well. I seemed to get into a right tangle with the original couplings compared to some of the other rolling stock I had at the time and have now switched entirely to the WHWW ones. I prefer the simplicity of just pulling the rolling stock apart over the ability to shunt with out manual intervention.

I contemplated getting one of those, but was put off by reports that the camera's companion App didn't work on current versions of phone/tablet software. How did you set the Polaroid up and retrieve the footage (which appears to be excellent by the way)? I did buy something similar, but the picture is rubbish - too much judder to be of any use. Thanks.

@Rallymatt Just getting back to this. Did you just insert the pellets through the open cab window and possibly squirt some adhesive in to keep them in place? I've got some 3mm ball bearings which I'm hoping to use, but the blighters have a mind of their own and seem to propel themselves at great speed whenever I attempt to pick one up! Thanks.

I think I might have raised this initially, but same issue nonetheless. I too have replaced them with medium length Hunt Elite Couplings with no issues. Runs well in both directions. The small length couplings caused the coaches to derail on the curves.

... and what material did you use to weigh it down?

All your posts are making me feel much better about my own impatience and I am glad that I am not the only one who constantly checks tracking and order status! I’ve nothing on order at the moment, at least not from Hornby. 🤗 Currently my “when will it arrive anxiety” has been focused on tracking the progress of my new car as it progresses through manufacture to delivery. Finally today relief has come and it has arrived at the dealership, unfortunately I was out with out my phone when the call came!!! 😒

No additional charges on my order direct from them. Shipping conditions to UK state: