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curved diamond crossing


2e0dtoeric

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How about this for a piece of set-track? Would there be enough demand to make it worthwhile?

I've only drawn in the running rails, for clarity. The black is existing trackage, the red is the proposed piece.

A diamond crossing - but with one 'leg' on a curve, the radius and lengths to match the existing 'express point' so the track spacing remains constant.

This could be made with a 'left' or a 'right' curve.

I see it finding a use where - say - a single-track branch line (on the curve) joins a main line (on the straight) - after splitting on another standard point, for the 'up' and 'down' lines.

 

/media/tinymce_upload/ece0168276a4b442d6920309a7c973fa.JPG

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 That is a good idea, because it allows double junctions to be constructed in minimum space. I am surprised it hasn't been done before especially as the straight diamond crossing is 'handed' anyway.  I am not however sure that the express point is the right accompaniment .

 

However I think there needs to be a total re-think of track geometry since most larger modern locos will not go round 'first' radius curves. Present day second radius needs to become the new first radius (R1) and the existing first radius curve needs to be R0 specially for starter train sets (Thomas etc.) . New points in third radius (R2 in my suggested scheme) and new 2e0deric's curved crossings (to be third radius (R2) as well). Fourth radius becomes R3. and a new radius outside that R4.

 

The suggestion give two different radii points in Setrack, all negotiable by modern locos, but then adds greater flexibility to layout design.  A double track using old 2nd & 3rd would fit on a board 4 foot wide, and would allow a double loop at one end if desired.

The new large radius curve (fifth radius in old measurements or R4 in my suggestion would be 638mm radius (25" in old money) .

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after splitting on another standard point -  - - slip of grammar there -  by 'standard' in this case, I meant already existing, but it should have read 'express' - to keep all radii the same!

(As an aside - all my pointwork has used the 'express' longer radius curved points. To my eye the tighter curves are too toy-like, although I appreciate that some users have to have them to get the layout to fit in their space).

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  • 1 month later...

/media/tinymce_upload/7b17a87f075537de958c8bd769719cf0.jpg 

Picking up this thread which seems to have got crossed (by me) in another thread, the kind of thing I was thinking about is shown in the attached (measured and drawn to scale).

 

It would require five new pieces - namely  Left Hand and Right hand points Third Radius, Left hand and Right hand diamond crossings Third radius, Short third radius curve (I recommend each crossing comes with three). I find that in order to be able to use the new points as a crossover and retain 67mm track interval the points need a short curve to join to the crossing when being used as a double junction, and then two more from the crossing to couple to the curve to make up the double curve length. By using small curved pieces minor irregularities in the layout can be absorbed.

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Why not take it all the way LC and ask for the same new parts in 4th radius to fit where that piece(s) of R600 sit(s) over the dotted outer track, then you could have any or all of the three loops exiting via a crossover .

 

then if there were matching Y points we could build a proper wye junction as well.

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Wonderful ideas. In my opinion the curved sections of layouts seem to be functional wastelands with regard to track. Some layouts hide the set-track curves by tunnels/hills and a very few place a station on all or part of the curve.

 

Point work and crossings on curves would help unclutter straight sections if they could provide the same functionality.

 

I know that Hornby make curved points but I understand that people's success varies with a few forums discussing problems associated with them and suggesting adding shims to prevent derailing and of course they are for 2nd to 3rd radius.

 

Sounds like a case for learning how to build your own track pieces but yes having them pre-made would be very helpful.

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 I have manufactured points in OO and O, variously using proprietry kits and also raw materials (rail, copper clad sleepers solder etc. ) It is a bit of fiddle but once you get the knack it is surprising what you can achieve. A track gauge (or rather at least three track gauges) are essential. A large lump of plywood where you can paste the drawing and into where you drive pins to hold the rails in place while soldering is also essential. 

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  • 11 months later...

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