gowest Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I have tried to keep it simple as I can no micro processors just like my first train set back in 1956 transformer resistor control and Princess Elizabeth back then I wished instead of electric motors I wished it was true steam and without Hornby and the live steam engines that they made I would not be here on this forum. The old train set which I still have boxed away so you never know if any of this makes sense some just might have a go? Or build parts to make there own simple system.Still getting to the end now just a few loose ends and that's it complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 When you are done GoWest how about compiling that into a How-To and publishing it. Wiki-How-To for a start.I would also flag it back to Adam the Hornby admin for the attention of the old Live Steam Team at Hornby as I'm sure they would have an interest In your updated control system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowest Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 /media/tinymce_upload/5618a47680210af6739bf46133e42133.jpgThe 2 connections from the micro switches in the drawing go to the NO contacts on the Forward and Backward relays on the interface PCB’s this is so that when the transmitter is used the green LED’s and network will show what the transmitter is doing and take over from the micro switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowest Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 /media/tinymce_upload/5618a47680210af6739bf46133e42133.jpgThe 2 connections from the micro switches in the drawing go to the NO contacts on the Forward and Backward relays on the interface PCB’s this is so that when the transmitter is used the green LED’s and network will show what the transmitter is doing and take over from the micro switches./media/tinymce_upload/5d6ea0220d83fc06afb8b550328a76d6.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowest Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 /media/tinymce_upload/28dc93dbe5e0a9ec848566c7a239f6c9.jpgThe heater control in more detail the power in and power out are straight forward and are the screw terminals on the right of the picture.When this unit turned up it had a pot or control on a short lead with a small white plug fitted in the PCB. This plug and pot has 3 wires 1RED 1YELLOW 1BLACK and by connecting 2 extra wires 1 blue and 1 white which we can connect as the drawing for our radio control ./media/tinymce_upload/9b8f71446de1eb8034ff8f214292bfe3.jpgThe yellow green and red wires are connected from the LED’s on the front panel to the switching transistor on the interface boards so that as each relay is powered up the corresponding led will light on the front panel giving the 3 heat settings.The 3 trim pots between the relays are for the setting of the 3 power levels for theengines heaters and can be set from about 11 volts heat 1 to 12.5 heat 2 and 14.5 heat 3. /media/tinymce_upload/5d2f999ae46b848601f7659d42cea5cf.jpgThe underside of the interface boards and at the bottom can be seen the 3 wires from the 4 position switch which when operated mirror the contacts inside the relays./media/tinymce_upload/c053890c15c76af3c0f10cdef7bdda76.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowest Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Well I think that's it all the major items have been covered and I hope it's clear as to what it all does but keep in mind this is work inprogress and mods will be on going as is the way with most things.When working for a large electronics company building radars for the ministry of defence a new S band transmitter was under construction the wave guide had a 12mm threaded hole in one section to stop the air coming out the engineer found an old spark plug to blank off the hole? When the transmitter went into production boxes of champion spark plugs turned up every time as the guy writing up the parts list not knowing electronics had included it as a matter of course.so you see anyone can get it wrong and i might have dropped a changer or 2 here in these pages so if you spot a fault or improvement that you think might help let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowest Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 I said at the beginning of this radio control system that I had an idea for a better monitor of the volts and amp for the front panel meter and I used this meter with the Hornby controllers at the Ilfracombe show and it worked ok so even if you are not building a radio control system you can wire one of theses meters into the power lead to the track but make sure the relay is about 10 amps with a 12 volt coil and it should work ok./media/tinymce_upload/2c737c6f3e6b15da437dbe39a9bc57a5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Now that is something I will install Gowest. I'm presuming 30V DC and 10 Amps.The best I can find is this one Is there a 30V AC 10 A 'DCC friendly' version out there - all the AC ones I found were 300V AC 100A.Would you have details of a UK supplier and suitable part number please. Thanks Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowest Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 RAF look on that action site I've just been there and seen one for £1.99 the same as the one above hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Thanks Gowest Spoilt for choice, but still unsure of which one to get to monitor DCC accurately enough. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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