woodcote Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Micro Scalextric celebrated its twentieth anniversary back in 2014. With not much having been written about the smaller cars, I was asked to produce a few articles as part of the celebrations. Those appeared in the National Scalextric Collectors Club Journal, Slot Car Magazine and Slot Magazine. I've reworked the more practical aspects of those articles to post them here. Hopefully new (and not so new) Micro Scalextric racers will find some of the tips and suggestions useful. Each of the posts comes with pictures which may take time to be approved here on the forum - so please be patient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 Getting the most out of your new Micro Scalextric set Micro Scalextric track is different from full size Scalextric track, with a hard plastic surface and metal rails which sit vertically like a model railway, rather than flush with the track. The Micro track is based on established 1/64 scale systems that date back to 1960, which makes it nearly as old as Scalextric. Tens of millions of people around the world have owned and enjoyed various makes of 1/64 slot car track and they've learned a few things about how to get it set up properly and keep it well maintained. 1. Track set-up The first thing to say is that new track should work well straight out of the box - especially if the enclosed instructions are followed. The first step is to check you have all the track pieces you need and lay them out on the floor or on a table to make up your chosen circuit. /media/tinymce_upload/a397f10831932fc3e4db4ee3a95a8a37.jpg Once you're happy with the layout, start connecting the track pieces by pushing them together on a flat surface and in a straight line - don't join the pieces at an angle or the ends could get damaged. /media/tinymce_upload/37c19d7234fc391ecee19d0f798bdda8.jpg Work patiently round the track until it is complete. Take particular care with the last few pieces. Now add any bridge supports if your layout has a flyover. It is a good idea to go round again and check that all the connections are good, looking out for any gaps or misalignments. Gaps can be closed up easily, but, if the track was not connected correctly in the first place, you may need to take that section apart and then carefully re-connect it. The next step is to run over the track with a cloth to clean the surface of any dust. With the track fitted together and cleaned, it is time to turn on the power and test the cars. It's worth saying that most 1/64 cars can stutter a bit for the first five to ten laps. That's perfectly normal, the cars are cleaning the top surface of the rails. Just give the car a push each time it stops. After a short while, the rails will be clean and the cars will work fine. If the car is still stuttering, check the braids are making a good connection with the track. They should be angled down to about 45-degrees. /media/tinymce_upload/b6a503dca4ceb59a8e142366406cd2a5.jpg We'll look at more trouble-shooting topics later. But first, let's look at making your Micro Scalextric set even better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 2. What to add to your set All the Micro Scalextric sets are great fun to use, but there are a few things to make the racing experience even better. The first step is to get a lap counter. Some sets come with a lap counter which counts up to 49 laps. A number of race formats are described on the Scalextric website, but whether you're racing over a set number of laps or against the clock, a lap counter is essential. After a lap counter, more track and more cars are definitely the things to add to your wish list. Getting another Micro Scalextric set will give you both those things (and perhaps a lap counter too, if your original set didn't have one). Individual cars are also available. /media/tinymce_upload/7ac6a22ab8717250f1ba28a36da461f2.jpg Buying a second set also provides another powerbase, which gives you the chance to independently power each lane. Using the standard powerbase, you might notice a 'power surge' when your opponent crashes - and this might cause you to crash, which can be annoying. Using two power bases side-by-side means that these surges are avoided. Just one word of caution - do make sure that only one controller is plugged into each lane. Perhaps mark powerbase 'Lane 1' and cover the controller socket for lane 2 with tape so that it can't be used by mistake. Then mark up the second powerbase 'Lane 2' with the lane 1 socket covered. Finally, the 1/64 scale is not far off the size of OO gauge Hornby model railways and 1/72 scale Airfix model kits. This gives Micro Scalextric racers the chance to use all sorts of scenic materials, buildings, planes and military vehicles to place alongside the track. You could get really creative! In the next post, well look at Micro Scalextric car tuning and maintenance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Micro Scalextric Car Tuning and Maintenance The Micro Scalextric chassis dates back to 1995 and has given enormous enjoyment to thousands of racers. On my estimate, there have been 168 cars released in the Micro Scalextric range up until 2014. Here we are going to look at how to get the most of you Micro Scalextric cars - basic maintenance and then ways to improve the performance. First, it's handy to put together a small range of tools. A simple Micro Scalextric tool kit should include spare pick-up braids, a pair of tweezers, some cotton buds, a roll of masking tape, a small flat-head screwdriver, an emery board and some plastic-friendly (synthetic) oil in a needle-point precision oiler. /media/tinymce_upload/0d67168481c5db5f5b20ee382fb4e622.jpg 1. Maintenance The most important thing with these tiny cars is to keep them clean. First, remove the body and clean out any dirt from the inside of the shell with a cotton bud. A good puff of air through the motor is perfect for removing any fluff or dirt. Use a clean cotton bud to remove dirt from the chassis, particularly around the guide blade and gear box. Hair and carpet fibres often get caught up around the rear axle and gears, especially if the track is set up on the floor. A pair of tweezers are perfect to remove hair from the axle and it's certainly a job made easier if you do it often. /media/tinymce_upload/2534baf816ab0438a7e2b7ff92278131.jpg Another area to keep clean is the rear tyres. When they pick up dust and dirt, traction is lost and the car will crash more easily. The simplest way to clean the tyres is to run them over the sticky side of masking tape. /media/tinymce_upload/88086301d64cedd7be5b2ee503a88a68.jpg A little oil - and I do mean a tiny drop - on the gears does help the car run, although the Micro Scalextric gears are already very smooth. A £5 investment in a needle point precision oiler is very worthwhile. Too much oil creates a lot of dirt in the car and, especially if the oil reaches the motor, performance can be seriously reduced. Finally, it's worthwhile keeping an eye on the braids as they are the main cause of the car misbehaving on the track. They shouldn't be flattened to the car, but should be kept at about forty-five degree from the bottom of the chassis. They will eventually wear out and will need replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 2. Improving performance The first 'go-faster' tip is common to all slot cars - round, smooth tyres. Micro Scalextric tyres are moulded, which leaves ridges on the surface so not all the tyre contacts the track. 'Truing' the tyres gives you round tyres, better grip and reliable road-holding. For this, place an emery board on the track and drop the rear of the car onto it while keeping the throttle at full power. You'll need to gently hold the car level so it doesn't bounce around, but don't push the wheels down as you don't want to flat-spot the tyres or overheat the motor. You really need three hands for this, so enlist some help if you can. After a few ten second bursts, expect the shiny coating to be removed from the tyres. You should have two round tyres that sit level on the track /media/tinymce_upload/24cabd196db57485272f33b164323dda.jpg Another simple way to improve the car is to change the steel braids that come with the cars with some softer copper braids. The steel braids are fine, but when they wear out and you need to buy some more, it's worth getting the copper ones. Cut the braid to the same size as the original braids (approx 20mm) and bend them in half so they fit around the braid plate. Replace the braid plate and then gently push the ends of the braids forwards so they 'scrunch' up slightly. That helps a little with conductivity /media/tinymce_upload/5ced15aad27714ce7c41b4fca774dff6.jpg When you have the braid plate off, clean and inspect the shiny metal contacts underneath. They should feel 'springy' to make good contact with the braid tucked under the plate. A good connection means all the power from the track is going to the motor. Use a small screwdriver to bend each contact up until it feels springy. /media/tinymce_upload/0eb7497cb7a885f88a671fdb0207b0bb.jpg A final tip for performance is for when you have quite a few cars. Some cars will be faster than others and some components will be better. It's easy to tell a fast motor by the sound it makes. A grippy chassis is one that goes fast and doesn't come off. The best rear axle is the one that has the smoothest gear mesh. Choosing the best components and putting them in one car is called 'blueprinting' and it's what top slot car racers and Formula One teams do to win races. It's not easy to change motors in the Micro Scalextric chassis, so it's best to find a grippy chassis with a strong-sounding motor. Then find the smoothest gear and swap that axle in. Plus remember to true the tyres and use some copper braids. Then you've got one fast Micro Scalextric car! Next, we'll look at some Micro Scalextric troubleshooting tips... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Micro Scalextric Troubleshooting Most of the time, Micro Scalextric sets will work really well out of the box. Sometimes there will be a fault, which may or may not be fixable. With older sets, there can be problems when you get the track down from the attic and you may need to do some work to get everything working as new. The main symptom of things not being right is when a car is stopping and starting on the track or won't work at all. This is when some basic principles of slot car trouble-shooting come into play. First is to identify whether we have a car, controller or track problem. So we should try different cars and controllers on the each lane of the track, swapping them around methodically and writing down the results of each test. (a) car trouble If one car fails to work properly with any controller on either lane, but other cars work fine, then it is that car which is the problem. The issue will usually be the braids. Start by bending them down slightly - forty-five degrees is about right - and try again. If the braids look worn, then replace them using the spare braids and the instruction sheet that came with the set. If the braids are not the issue, remove the braid plate and check the shiny metal contacts to see if they feel 'springy' and make good contact with the braid tucked under the plate. Problems arise if one or both contacts are pushed up into the chassis and don't 'spring'. Use a small screwdriver to bend each contact up until it feels springy. If this doesn't help, turn the rear wheels with your finger and see if they move easily and smoothly. If not, check that the body is not rubbing on a rear tyre and, if it is, remove and replace the body properly. If that's not the reason for the rear wheels not turning, it could be a wheel is pressing against the chassis. If this looks to be the case, you could use a small flat screwdriver to gently prise the wheel away from the chassis. If the car is not moving and these solutions don't get the car running, remove the body and push out the rear axle and place the bare chassis on the track. If the motor doesn't move when you squeeze the controller, then the motor is broken. If it's a well-used car, it's time to retire it and get a new one. If it's a brand new car contact Scalextric for a replacement. (b) controller problems If all cars work fine with one controller on both lanes but not with the other controller, then you have a faulty controller. It is not easy to repair controllers, so contact Scalextric for a replacement. © track issues If parts of the layout work okay with both controllers and all cars, but other parts don't, we have a problem with the track. First go round and check for any gaps or misalignments between track pieces - particularly if there is a specific piece of track where the cars are stopping. If closing gaps or fixing misalignments doesn't work, we may need to look at giving the track rails a good clean with a Hornby track rubber (R8087), especially if the track has been in storage for a while. An alternative to the rubber is a nylon pan scourer - but do be careful not to scratch the track surface. /media/tinymce_upload/8b2edd692e5a389db4969d0bd637a422.jpg If cleaning the rails doesn't help, its time to focus on the rail joins and clean up the metal tabs that conduct the electricity from one track piece to the next. These get tarnished when the track is old or has been stored in damp, cold conditions like an attic or garage. An abrasive emery board (used for filing finger nails) is a great tool for cleaning up these joins and getting the electricity flowing round the track. /media/tinymce_upload/4641409da85f869393ba313863e9a974.jpg If you have a problem with your Micro Scalextric that is not solved by following these steps, why not start a new thread here on the Scalextric forum, describing the issue and what you've already tried. I hope these tips have been helpful. Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darklighter5000 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 These are great posts! I just got into HO/Micro Scalextric recently and find these a great resource. I've just purchased 2 sets (HyperCars and 007) and plan on building a large racetrack (with spirals, banks, loop-the-loops, etc.) I've heard that long tracks require power taps to make up for power loss at the end of each track section, but can I use the 2 powerbases I have on the same track? Besides not having controllers connected to the same lane (as per your quote below) is there any other modification required in order to have these 2 powerbases work together?Using two power bases side-by-side means that these surges are avoided. Just one word of caution - do make sure that only one controller is plugged into each lane. Perhaps mark powerbase 'Lane 1' and cover the controller socket for lane 2 with tape so that it can't be used by mistake. Then mark up the second powerbase 'Lane 2' with the lane 1 socket covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 Thanks Darklighter! Glad you found them useful. Using both power bases will give you a separate power supply for each lane, thus twice the available power as the current is not shared between two cars. That extra power will help run cars more effectively round a large track, as will keeping the track clean and well maintained. You'll probably find two broad views on power taps... One that you must have taps every few meters and must avoid any significant power drop at any cost. The other is that power drops are inevitable, can be ameliorated somewhat by careful maintenance and that power taps should only be added when a power drop becomes a really big problem (ie cars stopping). On our 75-100 foot HO club tracks, we run one or two power taps (once or twice we've forgot to plug them in and no-one noticed!). On my 30-foot home track, I have no power taps at all. The basic principles of making power taps is the same for all scales and brands of slot cars. You can make power taps for Micro Scalextric track quite easily. Soldering cable to the exposed rail on the underside of the track is best. A non-soldering alternative is using a crimp connector - if you bend a female spade connector along it's length, one side should hold the exposed rail underneath the track. Although soldering gives a better and more durable connection, there is a danger of melting the plastic track surface. To prevent this, I use a 40W or 60W soldering iron that gets nice and hot and does the job quickly; I place the track piece upside down on a damp cloth or flat sponge (to keep the top surface cooler); I thoroughly clean and lightly sand the area of rail, then tin it with solder; I tin the end of the jumper wire and then the actual soldering time should be pretty quick - a second or two, at most. I'll post some pictures when I have time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darklighter5000 Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Hi Woodcote,Just saw a Youtube video regarding upgrading tires for Micro Scalextric ( ) - do you happen to have the rim dimensions if I happen to want to shop around for silicone replacements (example: inside diameter, outside diameter, width) - is there a website that you know of that may compile all that information for multiple manufacturers (eg., Aurora, AFX, Tyco) as I do have a few non-MS cars? Just wondering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 I measured the rear wheels on an older Aston Martin DBR9 and a recent Go Kart and they came out almost identical: Diameter (no tyres): 7.4mm or 0.290" Width (not including inner flange): 6.45mm or 0.254" Diameter (including stock tyres): 11.96mm or 0.470" If you're running the Micro Scalextric cars on Micro Scalextric track, you will want to use a tyre size that is similar to the stock rubber tyres. In my opinion, the ideal silicone replacement for the stock set-up would be the Super Tires 'Tyco' size, 0.434" diameter (SUT434 at Slot Cars Direct in the UK). That's 0.434" on a Tyco rim. I measured them on a Micro Scalextric wheel and they came out at exactly 0.470". Because of the strong magnetic attraction between the car's magnets and the track rails, the height of the rear tyres is crucial in tuning the level of downforce. It can be fun to get some different tyres sizes and set up your car perfectly for the track layout. For more grip and less top speed, you could drop a size (SUT 430). For more top speed and less grip, you could go up a size (SUT438). The Viper silicone tyres also sold at Slot Cars Direct are narrower and come in slightly different sizes to the Super Tires, plus two different compounds. Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darklighter5000 Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Hi Woodcote, Thanks so much for those numbers and recommendations! On some of the 007 tracks some of my cars slow down or stop, spinning their wheels, which makes me think the downforce is too great and I need to raise the car a bit. I'll let you know how it turns out! Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 I mentioned in one of my original posts that OO model railway building and scenics are perfect to use with Micro Scalextric. Here's a picture of the 007 Aston Martn DB5 outside the Metacalfe Models Low Relief Cinema & Shops (PO206):/media/tinymce_upload/56f4ef90e68050dbcc6a2b664571fc72.jpgIt was fun to put together and a nice backdrop to my other cinema-themed Micro Scalextric cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 And here's a couple of my favourite Micro Scalextric cars on a little desert diorama I put together with model railways scenics.../media/tinymce_upload/5985987050cd5ddec3beaa8cad3c8e1c.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/338381c4ce75217a1ed84abbcdf0510c.jpgThere's a Rally GB track in the pipeline too. I love those Micro Scalextric rally cars :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-bill3 Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Hi, all.i rolled out a micro layout at a dads and kids events with mixed success. The main problem was that the copper braid both plain and tinned kept losing contact. Is there an answer? I've placed an order for two New cars which appear to have wider braids. Are they wider? If so where can I buy such braid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcote Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 Hi big-bill. The only solution is regular tweaking of the braids - keep them straight and angled up about 45-degrees. When I've done club or public events with the older Micro Scalextric cars, I've either used two sets of cars - tweaking one set while the others are racing - or have spent a few seconds carefully tweaking the braids before the start of the race. I also give racers a clear message that if they crash, the cars may need repairs before being returned to full performance. As for the copper braids, I get mine in 1 or 2 metre lengths here: https://www.copperbraid.co.uk/slot-car-braids/ - I tend to 'scrunch' up the braid a little after it is fitted (push very gently from back to front) so the weave opens slightly and the width increases by a millimetre or two. The new Micro Scalextric cars are designed to run on the new 2019 9-volt Micro Scalextric system. This is quite different to the older track system (see here: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/new-micro-scalextric-track-system/) and the cars' motors will probably fail with prolonged use on the older track at 18 volts. Scalextric have upgraded the braid plate design on the new cars and it is more robust. Because the new track has flat rails (instead of the old vertical 'knife-edge' rails) there is more contact area and the braids last much longer. Overall, I think it is a vastly superior system. I hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-bill3 Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Hi big-bill. The only solution is regular tweaking of the braids - keep them straight and angled up about 45-degrees. When I've done club or public events with the older Micro Scalextric cars, I've either used two sets of cars - tweaking one set while the others are racing - or have spent a few seconds carefully tweaking the braids before the start of the race. I also give racers a clear message that if they crash, the cars may need repairs before being returned to full performance. As for the copper braids, I get mine in 1 or 2 metre lengths here: https://www.copperbraid.co.uk/slot-car-braids/ - I tend to 'scrunch' up the braid a little after it is fitted (push very gently from back to front) so the weave opens slightly and the width increases by a millimetre or two. The new Micro Scalextric cars are designed to run on the new 2019 9-volt Micro Scalextric system. This is quite different to the older track system (see here: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/new-micro-scalextric-track-system/) and the cars' motors will probably fail with prolonged use on the older track at 18 volts. Scalextric have upgraded the braid plate design on the new cars and it is more robust. Because the new track has flat rails (instead of the old vertical 'knife-edge' rails) there is more contact area and the braids last much longer. Overall, I think it is a vastly superior system. I hope that helps.Thanks. I've ordered braid from the suppliers you quote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt-1207248 Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 Hi thanks for this post, it's been pretty useful. I've tried the above and am still having issues...I have one car that works fine on both lanes of the track and with both controllers.So I believe the issue is with the other car, rather than track or controllers.When I hold it angled to the track with the braids connecting and pull the trigger then the wheels spin as expected. However when you then lower the back to the track they no longer work.I've checked and the braids appear to still be making contact (I can lift the back ever so slightly without changing the front and the wheels will then spin)... the braids are at a roughly 45degree angle.It seems almost as if when the magnet is sticking the car to the track something else is happening that is causing a connection to be lost.Is this something anyone has any suggestions for as everything else works fine. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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