Go_West Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 2ei think you must be a chap about my age to speak about Klystrons and the like damaging clock work watches and must have dabbled in these high power valve in your time?as for the wrong plant food you are probably right but to late to try something else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 @gowest - Yes, I'm nearly at that 'rude' age of 69.When I was in the RN in the late 60's/early 70's, we were 'playing' with Klystrons in the anti-radar section, when they were switched on (a work of art in itself!) they put out 5 kilowatts of radar noise! They were SOOO temperamental, though, if you breathed wrong, the things 'tripped out' and shut down - which was great when you were trying to stop a (fake!) missile from locking on to us!But that's an irrelevence to the topic.(I suppose there's a VERY tenuous connection, we were powered by steam turbines!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 69 is a very fine age from what ever position you look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 I'm surprised the profanity filter didn't block it! 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 You’ll be lucky to find a profanity filter on this site that can figure out context well enough to work out it might need to block something here. I am reminded from long ago last century going with a group to a pub for lunch. The system for ordering was you went and paid and they gave you a raffle ticket, then called out it’s number when your meal was ready. Except one of my colleagues - the barmaid came and told him when his meal was ready. Guess what number he had and why she didn’t yell it out? And by the way 2e0, did you get married recently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 All the above comments are great and going through the pages could make a good book and do get off topic a bit but much more fun than this engine stuff 2e did you ever come across 992Q a transmitter system for early frigets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/44099d6e9191d1f15eb81c48c26f331f.jpgTo make life easier for the operation of the engine I will hope to change the oil filler screw for a valve this way the chimney can stay fixed to the body, this idea I have built into other engines and works well.The engines exhaust out let might need an extension tube fitted to make sure the steam comes from the chimney and no where else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 @Fishy, no, why?@gowest - 992, no I don't recall that, we had 993, that's a surface search radar, and 978, which was a navigation radar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Now back to the rebuild have been away a little bit as the boys next door wanted a petrol powered skate board so took some time to get it finished so I can continue with the Duchess, there are other jobs in the pipeline so keeps busy .a bit off topic which happens here from time to time./media/tinymce_upload/523d1a2b4815d4459326d739d3268fcc.jpgAs I had bought the pony truck for this engine and with the view that I wanted it to be an LMS loco not an LMS/LNER hybrid so like all the other engine that I have built keeping this engine as correct as possible was a must./media/tinymce_upload/837d1be2797582593e11581f567a2dea.jpgI made a start by removing the twin contacts at the back of the pony truck as they were not required and the live steam engines have a different type of connection from the engine to the tender./media/tinymce_upload/7ac9cd9e8c8dd7631ad480ed8d8d1d29.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/3684231af54d567d00131614d8666cb5.jpgThen using the hand electric tool and suitable cutting disc I proceeded to cut away the back end of the pony truck that I didn’t want you might just see that one side has been cut and the second side I have started on. /media/tinymce_upload/8ae02ce447d44d8ac6b92127191a3cac.jpgThis back section of the pony truck needs to be removed as this would get in the way of the main steam pipe that runs to the tender.After the surfaces were cleaned up with a file and it looked to be that it might just fit ok a drop of black paint on the areas that had been chopping about and a trial fit to the chassis, but this through up another problem the last few millimetres of the A4 chassis was jamming the pony truck and not letting it swivel on its screw ./media/tinymce_upload/f56dc7af52b23da731e4791cb9ccbcf2.jpgThe picture here shows the very small section that was removed to over come the problem with the chassis and after some paint you would never know. /media/tinymce_upload/0f928af1867c3f63a8b2a502d597a818.jpgWith the pony truck fitted to the engine the compete chassis with the correct cross heads and valve gear and now pony truck was looking good the only thing out of place are the front bogy wheels which are red and need to be black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 With the chassis now looking complete I must turn my attention to the body and work out how things will fit like..... what will be the fixing points for the chassis, will I need to use my electronics and where to fit them? then there's the safety valves these look to be at the very back of the boiler almost in the cab and as this is a steam engine we want the steam from the engines safety valve to vent out of the 4 valves that the Duchess has for realism. /media/tinymce_upload/267ce4e772cb3f2dd84eea7afb1a653a.jpgThe kit’s pressed body lacks the fine detail that some kit’s have so I hope to add a little more detail to this body./media/tinymce_upload/b14467059f1c57f9632efbd5c99b3612.jpgMy own Duchess pictured here will help along with and pictures on the net.You can see here the 4 safety valves and the whistle let into the casing /media/tinymce_upload/e533482cf11dfc575526a04e94521ccd.jpgThese pictures show the front end with the door locking handle and the 2 handles that open the clam shell type doors to get at the smoke box door inside for cleaning. The different panels that go to make the body of the engine are also clearly shown on the model plus front coupling hook vacuum brake pipe and steps and buffers. The cab picture shows the 2 small side panels to the cab and the hand rails plus the back of the boiler all need to be added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Change of name Eric, before I read your separate thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 Before the body can have all the fine detail some more changes will be needed to the chassis for it to fit into the body.There would not be a problem if I adopted the standard Hornby assembly which is to have the small electronic PCB in the cab area but as like other engines I have built I like the cab to resemble the engine that I am modelling and in this case the electronics will be my own system and fit under the cab floor./media/tinymce_upload/88e7ae8ef3999f2ab7ce0cf3829b6cc5.jpgThis picture shows the engine chassis complete with the correct front colour bogies wheels.The next pictures shows the control board which I will change./media/tinymce_upload/4dbf151ee0c9d57c7eac43c80f2a4576.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/883d996f154d36d10e56963fa590a191.jpgIn this picture the small control board has been removed leaving just the wires which will be terminated on a small printed board. It might be worth mentioning that the safety valve top is from a later Flying Scotsman engines as it has a small under cut near the top which allowed for a new rubber washer that would better locate in the groove plus it is the wrong way round the 2 small holes should be facing the front when fitting a Hornby body. /media/tinymce_upload/7e50b82d3e66beb2a20ef1206a33d0d8.jpgPicture of the chassis sitting nicely in the body with the larger engines like this Duchess there is much more room to fit the Hornby parts into the body.You can see the type of assembly in this layout as it shows the 2 locating dowels at the rear and the 2 fixing screws at the front for the body .Also notice the nice large area to the rear of the cab floor for my control board. Once the brackets are in place the safety valve connection from the body to the chassis will need to be worked out and this will complete this job plus the wiring changes./media/tinymce_upload/1d08b1bb3acb8b0418a61342d3a1c5bd.JPGThe wiring for the engine will change, a small printed board will be fix to the top of the weight of the engine with 2 screws but before this the weight will have about 5 mm cut off the top, this way it will give a little more space for the components and wires below is the termination board./media/tinymce_upload/088fa2034f2932fb2ecf82c111954a4f.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/32ea842544066c8205c8e7fc578738b0.jpgIts best to think of this as a test model with regard to these small changes and if a problem arises then things might change again./media/tinymce_upload/c81c269cdf06011ed072d17d7fd7593b.jpgabove a drawing giving the conections./media/tinymce_upload/a8cc4f9d497dea62efe5c0de6acf547e.jpgCutting the heater wires down to solder them onto the new termination board. Following the heater wires then will come the 2 motor wires and last of all the 2 switch wires that will conclude all the main chassis wiring, but remember one of the control board screws will provide the earth for the regulator switch./media/tinymce_upload/61142e89635f2b180610ac08e549e0e9.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/ebf37cd3fc7774a980973613e72ec7e9.jpgThere will be 3 main wires coming away from this small board to the control board 2 you can see in this picture they are the red ones and supply the power for the heaters and the regulator switch for the flickering LED which has not been connected yet. Plus one of the motor wires connected to the earth side of the termination board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 Totally mind boggling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 I can just about follow all that Ken.Superb inventive work.That whole mechanism looks nice and compact.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 Robyour right I have toyed with other ways to control these live steam engines and one day might have a go at redesigning the motor drive system of control but why re invent the wheel when the Hornby system works well for me.ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 The small printed board that has the components for the flickering fire I have drawn out below so you can see more clearly how it works. With the regulator shut the large 4k7 resistor supplies the volts to make the flickering fire LED in the fire box door light very dimly this indicates no steam going to the cylinders.When the regulator move to open the valve and let steam into the cylinders then at a set point the 620R resistor takes over and the increased volts make the LED light up much brighter and the engine moves off./media/tinymce_upload/561d8eca4e648bd45a72382d489547af.jpgThe chassis now needs the fixing point to be made and fitted to the body so that the chassis can be fixed in position.The way Hornby had the fixing points positioned on the chassis for the A4 engines was going to incorporated into this LMS body to do this a bracket was made to fit under the cab floor with 2 square holes in it so that the 2 pegs in the back of the chassis would locate and hold the rear end of the chassis in place as in the pictures./media/tinymce_upload/6f040ac4d332dcb3cfe3f115f14f8c5c.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/e2f7b3705e73942eeb14ddb979e74f71.jpgThe front end of the chassis would need 2 pillars that can be soldered to the body and threaded 8BA this will fix the front end so after working out the size of these pillars they were made up on the lathe and soldered in place./media/tinymce_upload/fc3385b99dcf2c5d84e768e8fe9760e8.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/869c67fddfe1cfda1b7a0bf2a3459d9c.jpgThe new electronic PCB could have a trial fit so was roughly fitted under the cab floor and all the connections made this looked to be ok. So more work needs to be done at some time to make this a good assembly. /media/tinymce_upload/847ed2656ede5ae2113987c98836b6af.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/abb83eb1dd7078edacf347f98e9c23a1.jpgThe engine now with the body fixed in place was put on some track and all the wheels were checked out to see if anything was going to get in the way and stop the engine from running.More work was needed on the body to push this work along and looking at my Hornby Duchess I added some of the fine detail like the inspection covers and boiler bands and marked out the position of the chimney and soldered it in place./media/tinymce_upload/1662f1a90abbdca9e0c4940bb4b731ad.jpgHere I am drilling the holes for hand rails which can then be soldered in place.The body as you can see is missing its buffers I keep putting this job off as its going to be time consuming also like the front coupling hook and the whistle./media/tinymce_upload/c28079c6527f192c0aeedadfabab2daa.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/169ee85b5f80f0d8f449d791b2108afa.jpgThen the inside of the cab will need to be built and a position for the fireman and driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 More good progress Ken.I was getting withdrawal symptoms.How come your pcbs look shop bought and when I solder smds to veroboard it looks like a dog’s breakfast. Leaving myself open to a slating here...Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 Hi RobIts funny you say about building up electronic pcb's I like you knock up pcb's from vero board to get the idea working and carry out mods then once finished sometimes make a proper job of it and find then it don't work yet the lash up does?yes been away on holiday on a boating trip on the Norfolk Broads had a great time the weather was brilliant and still found people like me taking pictures of old engine as owing to lack of rail stock a 53 year old diesel was pressed into service and took pictures and video at Reedham going over the swing bridge./media/tinymce_upload/50dc83f17de75a051afa3946d93a4082.jpgken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Nice to see you supping good old Norfie beer.East Anglia has its own wine as well and we make Whisky.Who is driving the boat though while you two are on the pop....Just as well you didn't get swept under that low bridge as the tide goes out faster than the motor in the boat can drive you upstream. We used to go to Reedham for a pint and watch the holiday boat learner drivers trying to park going downstream outside the pub and making a right hash of it.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 Hi Robyes we nearly made a right --ckup as the tide was running fast going out but realised this and turned the boat against the currant and made a perfect docking but found out they now have a harbour master now not like 48 years ago. I like the swing bridge which was under repair as it had a hydraulic problem and I could see them working all night fixing it it was working and opened a few times while we were there the wife was driving some of the time but left the docking to me and thought now you know the face behind the hobby.i like the swing bridge, has any one ever built one? im thinking it would look great on a layout.just a couple of pictures of the bridge and the old diesel i spoke of still going 53 yeasrs old, getting off topic a bit./media/tinymce_upload/22851462184f15f853d064e13d908c1e.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/845515d324124af979977a7abb4b487b.jpgi did build a turn table for my layout so it would be almost the same idea but just a 90 degree turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 I wonder how many swing bridges there are in UK. Newcastle has one.Those 37s are our latest locos. DRS use them all the time.My neighbour just told me they are running the track cleaner trains into Dereham on the MNR this month. We get allsorts up there.Nice to see the face behind the pen.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 My nephew sometimes inspects the Norfolk swing bridges and has to take a boat with him to check them out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 Well things have moved on a bit slowly the little bits of detail are being incorporated into the body and its not looking to bad it was never the best of kits and some of it leave a little to be desired.This seems to be more a pressed and punched made model rather than an etched type./media/tinymce_upload/367bebcc8851791a6825952e3d08ef96.jpgSo its onto the buffers starting with some 6 mm brass rod and machining the outside dimensions as per my Hornby Duchess loco. And then making a 2 mm hole down the centre./media/tinymce_upload/23050803b6b07b7a9fd3193cb73c3225.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/cebc7176a36986d017093539ba3d7907.jpgOnce these two parts were finished they were soldered in place on the body. A fiddly job as they need to be parallel not one pointing up and one pointing downThe buffer heads I did not make but i bought them this save a bit of time and they came with springs./media/tinymce_upload/ef218330f15ffebe429709be4bff181d.jpgLooking at the final picture all the front end detail is now completed to the body now so will move to the cab area where there is still a little more to do.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 That must have been a horribly fiddly job Ken, along with all those other tiny bits and pieces on the bodywork. Not the sort of things I could make a neat job of.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 Your right Rob not like 7.25 gauge which have much larger parts and you can get your hands on. I just noticed my Hornby Duchess is missing its front brake pipe? Wonder where that's gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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