96RAF Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 Looking at those speed whiskers on the Hornby model Ken, best of luck getting your transfers around all those knobbly bits on the front end of the kit.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted October 22, 2018 Author Share Posted October 22, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/e61b1500293ed6351938b18e7af84a55.jpgBecause the safety valve unit on the A4 chassis is in the wrong place for the LMS engine which has the valves set further back in the cab roof, 2 small boxes will have to be made up so that steam can be ducked through to the 4 valves.When the steam pressure reaches above 30 psi the extra pressure should then pop out of the 4 valves making every thing look correct when steaming.Looking at the diagram you can see the brass Hornby safety valve with its rubber seal fitted to the top as standard to the A3 and A4 engines. The rubber seal will then make a good contact seal with the first box section set in the top of the boiler body and via a hole in this box steam will pass from here to the smaller second box and then out through the 4 safety valves./media/tinymce_upload/9c7e3bcd94316dfb4b1fe2edea991d87.jpgFirst the cab front wall needs a rectangle hole made in it for the steam to pass between the 2 boxes so after I had drilled 2 holes a needle file was used to turn these holes into a rectangle./media/tinymce_upload/58334d3f3f345c8bbed6ba305afaca1f.jpgYou get a better idea from this picture of the hole in the cab wall with the 4 holes for the brass safety valves in the front of the roof section./media/tinymce_upload/7b30ad56ab790467b4921a2aca84c613.jpgNext part was to mark out the size of the first and largest box which will connect to the Hornby safety valve unit on some brass sheet./media/tinymce_upload/58a7fa35afbebad5e6ad0d51f3fa04fd.jpgHere is the box section ready to be soldered into the body. It has the round hole to take the steam from the Hornby safety valve and the rectangle notch in the side to make allowance for the whistle housing in the top of the body. /media/tinymce_upload/20326898b0093fc786a9baa022df0e99.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/022f514494ff54e59dbaebbebc23b9f8.jpgPlaced on top of the safety valve these 2 pictures now show what I am trying to achieve./media/tinymce_upload/475dfbcb10c2ace23b1f7e765cd85dc6.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/3c8b348066de3e4bf6547d6d89dfff2a.jpgOnce soldered into the body the second smaller box unit can be made but before I do this the 4 brass safety valves need to be made and soldered in place which in this picture I am carrying out just by gently heating the valve body and the roof the flux bubbles and there is sufficient solder on the iron tip to make a first class job./media/tinymce_upload/c5725a23076fac1d690c95debf1131ad.jpgThe smaller box was made from the same brass sheet and small enough to cover the bottom section of cab roof where the 4 safety valves were fit and this then was soldered in place/media/tinymce_upload/5e1888a41e852add5659e04149c86f25.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/9d99fc60284c3e533cec073115773e2d.jpgWith this smaller section soldered in place completes this part of the body build and when the back of the boiler is built it is hoped little of this will be seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/a41a47ea16030377b1d9c47f57b5a844.jpgThe printed board had plenty of room under the cab floor and the heat proof wires pictured in red were run from the termination board on top of the weight down to this small board which controls the motor. The black wires are for the incoming power from the tender./media/tinymce_upload/e4b21963ba9e9fbef5a3ef0b1274c0e2.jpgThe flickering LED was mounted on a small board which was soldered to a brass bracket held in place by the 2 screws next to the safety valve./media/tinymce_upload/6ade725494c35ba2d927e18651e31a4d.jpgI had started to build the back of the boiler and with the fire hole doors open the exposed hole should line up with the flickering LED to shine through./media/tinymce_upload/6544d6bf7ba5740b7cb5fe85b1693f6c.JPGI also made up the new front bogie from brass bar and fitting the black Hornby LS wheels In place. I found later that running on my poor track the bogies would jump off the rails so a light spring was added in an effort to over come this problem./media/tinymce_upload/737265123081161697ff461770ce5df4.jpgThe new oil filler valve was added and the new position of this was transposed onto the body as in the picture here and you can see the small hole in the body where the needle will go through into the valve only 2cc of oil is inserted as it is possible to over fill the small tank which will spill out of the chimney but this idea saves removing the chimney and filler screw and means it can be filled in full steam to./media/tinymce_upload/8be50eafbbaaaf15e75dafab3f603372.JPGI carried out some steam tests with out and with the body and hoped to put these on youtube but the engine ran so poorly I have spent time trying to find out why, so once up and running will put together a short clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Good progress Ken even if you have gremlins to exorcise.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Yes Rob why is it you carry out some work on a project and as things go along all is well and as the end is in sight it all goes wrong!this engine as is won't do 114 mph and wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding but I hope given time I might find whats wrong.ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Could be as simple as a dodgy boiler element or the super-heater element not adding to the party. Abit like when the turbo on your car goes belly up. Runs nice but no grunt.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Rob you were partly right the connection from the tender to the engine was intermittent and a section of track on the far side of the layout was open circute which wouldn't help plus the supper heater had a poor feed of steam due to blocking so a blow lamp and some acid cleaned out the passages and I fitted new piston rings.now steams better and is pulling 7 carriages with not problem so will take some video and post it Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 Some test runs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 That runs well Ken. Nice looking loco.Paintbrush mext?Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Well done. Great looking engine and good video. Especially like the way you have your train merging out of the B&W photo at the start. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 Thanks for the comments body now in grey primer/media/tinymce_upload/8dbdd0263c85d805ac175c6cf77d2d74.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 I have a streamlined (electric) City of Edinburgh in black and an unstreamlined one in grey primer so I guess its crying out for a matching black livery, as now and then versions, although I rather like it in blue, I think the paint job will be outwith my skill level.Time will tell.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 Hi Robi have a blue Princess Alexandra running on Zero one which comes with coaches and a spare set of bogeys of the correct scale if you have it on display.have just finished the red and managed to get one paint run right in the front so will have to rub it down a little and blow it in.as for the lining out not sure how this will end up?ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Looks good, GoWest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 Well the test steaming went well and the engine pull 7 carriages so I can draw a line under that and say that with the 7 carriages on and the regulator set for slow to medium running the engine pulled well and the safety valve lifted in 2 places around my small track this always shows that the engine is set up right and there are not leaks of steam this you can see in the video with the body off just as I am following the engine towards the tunnel when there’s a short from the safety valve and also picked up on the sound track. .So with the painting./media/tinymce_upload/2f1e430bce1c9af6fca9ee6bbf10fe31.jpgThe paint job, this you can never tell how it will go some times it goes well some it does not.It started ok and some grey primmer was applied to the body shell. This look good so when it was dry the maroon LMS red was mixed up and the first coat applied.But looking at the front of the body a paint run was clearly visible./media/tinymce_upload/f417fcc43015c2d315dc6d3ea98cd263.jpgSo leaving the paint to dry hard as it was too soft to rub down i left well alone.Once the paint had hardened some water and soap plus a section of 1000 wet/dry paper was used to remove this paint run and then a re spray this time things looked much better./media/tinymce_upload/f73174f34e0fd38c49623993394e9938.jpgHappy with the finish now its transfer time this nearly caused a devoice as I was trying to apply the lining out at the kitchen table my beloved wife was writing Christmas cards and the from time to time the table would rock it was like trying to work in a rowing boat?/media/tinymce_upload/4e189656f6909583392e996320b55232.jpgI looked and looked before starting thinking well if it all goes wrong I’ll just buy another set of transfers.To apply them in one strip It was going to be unmanageable so the section that fits around the very from was cut off and would be applied first fitting it around the steps and handles./media/tinymce_upload/2e342a39a4a9187588b55e323a03df2a.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/fb58253c159c22b0d183f8de6a8636ec.jpgHere is the finished body the transfers didn’t come out too bad and they will have to go a bit wonky in places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 I knew that job would be a bit of an awkward task Ken, especially round those front end bits and bobs, but it has turned out really good. Mine would have been like a Merchant Navy Officers sleeve rings.To think those lines were probably put on by an old boy with a floppy paint brush, a chalk line and no masking tape.There was a tale in the motor industry (in the old coachworks days) that the pin-striper/coach-liner only did his work in the afternoon after the pub was shut as by then his hand had steadied a bit due to the ale supped.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 Rob I've got a nice 12 year whiskey should have had a glass might have help just going to find it its time for a swift one to toast a job done the tender should be a bit easier and thats next after a make the whistl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 16, 2018 Author Share Posted November 16, 2018 The tender was started some time back the frames were machined from some brass strip with the axle box positions marked out for a 6 wheel tender not a 8 wheel tender as the A4/media/tinymce_upload/c32e4e1dad848743448687800585bd7e.jpg.The main fixing holes were drilled in the frames so that the screws would be in the best places within the new plastic insulator i had made but all this was in vain as in the end I used the Hornby insulator.All that was needed was to file the new axle positions in place which you might be able to see in this picture below./media/tinymce_upload/ecc02b0056530d4d24e382b2593ce216.jpgThe chassis will be fixed to the body by 3 screws 2 small screws at the front and 1 larger screw at the rear this will be a special screw so that a Hornby coupling can be attached to it.Having a model which has a body made from brass not plastic gives problems with electrical insulation.So to fix the chassis to the body some sort of insulation is needed./media/tinymce_upload/ccd28e6e9c72cf348685872f12189775.jpgFor this I used some small strips of printed board one long strip at the front and a shorter strip at the rear of the tender. You can see these in this picture and these were held in place with 4 small screws drilled that tapped into the top edge of the frames./media/tinymce_upload/921485840a7eb6ce5181d540a36bcc13.jpgThe axle boxes were held in place with another long section of printed board fixed in place with 6 screws again drilled and tapped into the bottom edge of the brass frames./media/tinymce_upload/41e3fbab58ef229a9bc82244a88f10f9.jpgThis printed board would have 4 small brass brackets soldered in place and the frame sections from the kit with the springs and axle boxes were going to be held in place with 4 screw 2 each side into these small brackets as in the picture here./media/tinymce_upload/ea16287ac617c5cff8e2c6013a597ba1.jpgI had a go at trying to add the fine detail into the ends of the tender and going by my Hornby model this is the result not 100 % but it will have to do and if I drive it fast enough people will not see it that well./media/tinymce_upload/57c14d5b901d65bc0c5aae4edfef498a.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/7a7c6d5e0fc7f2a9e9d5009f778e1c3d.jpgOnce altogether the tender was looking pretty good the next part is to fit the hornby boiler which just about goes in nicely Then the wiring can go in and a working rear lamp./media/tinymce_upload/097835e46b398a76e85a1be1e920ee1b.jpgI've had the boiler sitting in a bowl of acid to give it a good clean so with a new heater and thermostat cut out I can try it out with a few steam runs soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Good progress Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/06b02b2db2c1fab17ee0e13274964a1b.jpgThe old and the new in steam that is I wonder what they might be saying?/media/tinymce_upload/a3cf4d2408e64df05ce2a07c7eef84e7.jpgAs some will know I try to fit working oil lamps to the models that I make but even none working head lamps might be a challenge for this engine as the lamp brackets had wings so that they would look streamlined as the rest of the engine.I’ll have a go and see what I can do./media/tinymce_upload/7e13b61e843f03d21a9f946e5d8634bb.jpgThe rear lamp is just a standard LMS lamp and I have explained how I make these for other engines on this forum so with out going into detail the idea is as in the layout drawing here using a flickering LED on a small printed board an off the shelf lamp and drill a hole through the lamp and tender end wall then fix the lamp in place with fibre optic cable. /media/tinymce_upload/a197caccca3e860d3fee11125e76e2b2.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b20752db096718588cbd55ecd0077537.jpgA brass bracket was made to hold the printed board in the right position.The connections for the power to supply the printed board was by way of 2 sprung forks which would slot into the brass chassis frames./media/tinymce_upload/48a287bc7d6010625fa7572c0458f98f.JPGYou might be able to see the contacts on the small printed boar in this picture /media/tinymce_upload/4113df64613e6d4b4df81ddb35f31c08.JPGOnce the rear lamp was tested out and it worked OK the only thing left to do was fill the tender with water and test it out to see if it ran alright and that there was not going to be any problems with the chassis or wheels./media/tinymce_upload/52632d6a65dd57780e4a85ff4b6a3390.jpgA Flying Scotsman was going to the engine for this test as I didn't want to cover my Duchess, nice red paint in steam oil before the tender was painted and the completed engine can then be photographed The tender ran for an hour or more with no problems so the body can now be painted and lined out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 That is a neat way of picking up power for the tender lamp Ken.Maybe Hornby should adopt a similar method for their diesel loco body to chassis connections instead of those horrible unreliable springy things,RobPS I wonder if engines do whisper to each other when the shed doors are closed. I know aircraft do. If you sit in a hangar in the middle of the night on guard with all the lights out you can hear them telling war stories. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 Hi Robyou have just jogged my memory when at Marconi Radar we had a test site at Rivenhall Essex which was a second WW bomber base many of the buildings were still there and the runways to.my friend and I were working nights on a bit of kit and one night at about 2.00 o clock in the morning we could hear an air craft starting its engines up one by one I looked at my mate and he looked at me as we tried to pin point the noise and what it might be?just then the door to the hut we were working in opened and a Marconi security guard walked in as they did through the night we asked him about the sound we had heard and he said that he had come across all sorts of thing most unexplained one thing he said he had seen a few times was an airman in flying jacket walking from the cinema building across a roadway to another building and disappearing Into thin air.Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 KenI have a book written by one of our security guys at Marshalls.../media/tinymce_upload/288305c6df4da547380044b187abd540.jpgAn entertaining read.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 Hi Robmight look that one up Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Doesn’t take long to read Ken and more interesting for me as I know all the buildings he talks about. One of the gash jobs I was lumbered with on occasion was taking folk on a works tour round all these places.RobPS I am just filling time with this chatter to give you time to paint the tender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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