airfixian Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 Do the new 1/35th Tiger 1 models have flexible tracks ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jopres57 Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 I'm not sure if you mean 'rubber band' type tracks or the ones with individual links airfixian. In any event it looks like the kit is just being released so you should get an answer soon, if not here then in the modelling press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth ONeill Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Well, I don't know, but I'd describe modern tracks in more terms than used for far:-"Rubber bands"; one piece per track, flexible."Individual links" (and link and length); separate parts for round corners, and solid lengths where applicable. Need glue and do not work once assembled."Workable"; multiple parts per link, and remain working once assembled. They're most useful on something like a Tiger, Panther or T-34 that doesn't have top idlers so you will want to adjust the hang of the assembled track run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airfixian Posted July 26, 2019 Author Share Posted July 26, 2019 I mean vinyl tracks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peebeep Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 They are vinyl tracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peebeep Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 Belay that, the Academy editions first came with vinyl, the Airfix has individual links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie ayres Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 Just opened the tiger 1 early version operation citadel and have a question about the photo etch. In step 1,at the bottom, in the instructions it shows photo etch being applied to the lower hull (left). On the lower hull that I have there seems to be no matching area. Any one know where this photo etch is supposed to be applied? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 richie, I have moved your post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmd63 Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 I have a few questions on the A1354 Early Version Citadel.First why does the box say Poly Cement is used but the instructions inside says "PE PHOTO ETCHED PART - USE INSTANT GLUE"?Also, on sections 2,3,5, there are parts that are displaying a do not glue marker? Which parts are glue and which are not?2B for example shows 2 wheels with a small sleeve marked with 'do not glue square' but also a note POLY(M)??Are there any video to help with this?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peebeep Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 I have a few questions on the A1354 Early Version Citadel.First why does the box say Poly Cement is used but the instructions inside says "PE PHOTO ETCHED PART - USE INSTANT GLUE"? I would guess whoever did the box art graphics didn't know there were metal components in the kit Also, on sections 2,3,5, there are parts that are displaying a do not glue marker? Which parts are glue and which are not?2B for example shows 2 wheels with a small sleeve marked with 'do not glue square' but also a note POLY(M)?? The wheels containing what you refer to as a sleeve should be glued together, but the sleeve (usually referred to as a poly cap) should not be glued and free to rotate inside the wheel assembly. The poly cap is an interference fit with the axle, press it on and the wheel assembly will rotate. The inner wheels don't need to be glued, the outer wheels will prevent them from coming off the axle and the track teeth keeps them aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth ONeill Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 THe "instant glue" in question is also known as "superglue", "cyanoacrylate" or "krazy (sic) glue" (Mostly USA). Polystyrene cements (bottle or tube) do not work on metal parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmd63 Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 I have a few questions on the A1354 Early Version Citadel.First why does the box say Poly Cement is used but the instructions inside says "PE PHOTO ETCHED PART - USE INSTANT GLUE"? I would guess whoever did the box art graphics didn't know there were metal components in the kit Also, on sections 2,3,5, there are parts that are displaying a do not glue marker? Which parts are glue and which are not?2B for example shows 2 wheels with a small sleeve marked with 'do not glue square' but also a note POLY(M)?? The wheels containing what you refer to as a sleeve should be glued together, but the sleeve (usually referred to as a poly cap) should not be glued and free to rotate inside the wheel assembly. The poly cap is an interference fit with the axle, press it on and the wheel assembly will rotate. The inner wheels don't need to be glued, the outer wheels will prevent them from coming off the axle and the track teeth keeps them aligned. Thank you!It turned out that the first set of wheels needing the poly insert, actually required the Poly S not Poly M! And fitted better by inserting the first wheel on the axial, then fitting the Poly M, then glueing the second wheel to the first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmd63 Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 I have a few questions on the A1354 Early Version Citadel.First why does the box say Poly Cement is used but the instructions inside says "PE PHOTO ETCHED PART - USE INSTANT GLUE"? I would guess whoever did the box art graphics didn't know there were metal components in the kit Also, on sections 2,3,5, there are parts that are displaying a do not glue marker? Which parts are glue and which are not?2B for example shows 2 wheels with a small sleeve marked with 'do not glue square' but also a note POLY(M)?? The wheels containing what you refer to as a sleeve should be glued together, but the sleeve (usually referred to as a poly cap) should not be glued and free to rotate inside the wheel assembly. The poly cap is an interference fit with the axle, press it on and the wheel assembly will rotate. The inner wheels don't need to be glued, the outer wheels will prevent them from coming off the axle and the track teeth keeps them aligned. Thank you!It turned out that the first set of wheels needing the poly insert, actually required the Poly S not Poly M! And fitted better by inserting the first wheel on the axial, then fitting the Poly M, then glueing the second wheel to the first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmd63 Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 I have another question about the tracks. I have the early version tiger 1/35 operation citadel. The tracks are individual pieces and 96 parts are required per track.But the parts DO NOT clip together and I cannot get 96 piece to link up so that I can wrap it around the wheels.How are these individual parts joined together? There is nothing in the manual as to how to get these into a single long track to join around the wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peebeep Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 This is an extract from the Academy instructions. /media/tinymce_upload/1781ce06aaf3123a690c7ff549312aeb.png Make up sections of the straight runs, then use the wheels as a jig to form the runs around the sprockets and return rollers. If you use a slowish setting glue you can ease sag into the tracks as required. Depending on how you wish to carry out painting and weathering you may or may not want to complete them as closed loops. They can be a bit of a 'mare to assemble but there's no doubt individual links look the most realistic. I use a hypodermic type liquid glue applicator to minimise the risk of turning the tracks into a gloopy mess, but they may get slathered in 'mud' in any case, it all depends on your weathering style. /media/tinymce_upload/c0bce973426e0181c13b64b46c9c3939.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmd63 Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 This is an extract from the Academy instructions. /media/tinymce_upload/1781ce06aaf3123a690c7ff549312aeb.png Make up sections of the straight runs, then use the wheels as a jig to form the runs around the sprockets and return rollers. If you use a slowish setting glue you can ease sag into the tracks as required. Depending on how you wish to carry out painting and weathering you may or may not want to complete them as closed loops. They can be a bit of a 'mare to assemble but there's no doubt individual links look the most realistic. I use a hypodermic type liquid glue applicator to minimise the risk of turning the tracks into a gloopy mess, but they may get slathered in 'mud' in any case, it all depends on your weathering style. Thank you.The item shown as 1 is missing from the instructions in the box, along with fact that the track parts are glued!The assembly instructions just shows:(10) Right: 96 LinksLeft : 96 LinksThen just shows the track being rolled around the wheels.. No glueing symbol, Nothing. Poor showing on the instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmd63 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 I have found a method that works with the tracks now./media/tinymce_upload/8670870c743f1a583dd87fe6426314c5.pngPlace a small drop of CA glue just outside the inner track guide as shown./media/tinymce_upload/11c6a4ae9fb3203195aa758f77a8acbb.pngPlace the track segment under a piece of black thread./media/tinymce_upload/6e3192816bcfca62530d3ff681070530.pngManeuver the track piece into position and press the thred into the glue, Align with an end.Once dry, the track is still flexible and will allow you to roll it into position before final glueing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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