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My experience with the HM6000 so far...


JS84Z

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So I received my iTraveller 6000 train set Yesterday and I did some extensive testing. Few issues so far:

  1. Inertia acceleration works fine, but deceleration is problematic. You have to use your finger to slide super fast, almost like doing a fast swipe/flick when you inertia flick through 100 contacts on your smartphone screen. If you do it at a normal speed (like when you unlock an iPhone "slide to unlock"), the loco just stops instantaneously with no deceleration at all. I've tested this so many times and it's 100% accurate.
  2. The steam sound profile doesn't match the cadence of the loco. My 0-4-0 is going at double the cadence of the piston sound coming from this controller. There's no way to actually manually change the cadence of the sound, it has several pre-recorded piston cadence and that's it.
  3. The phone/tablet screen has to be active at all times. As soon as you put the device to sleep, the connection is lost. Imagine having to leave the screen on just so your airpod/bluetooth speaker stay connected.
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  1. This could be a sensitivity setting on your phone as inertia works as advertised on my iPad and Android phone. Also is your slider set for active or drag and drop. The former will allow speed to react as you slide with your finger on and the latter the speed change will only kick in after you take your finger off. The slider is not supposed to be used in ‘flick’ fashion. Does the loco respond correctly if you use the brake button.
  2. The chuff cadence is not supposed to match, except by coincidence as it is a generic variable pace chuff for all steam locos. There is no reference point for the chuff to latch onto. Not even TTS sound decoders match chuff with pace. If you want that accuracy then you have to pay for full-featured DCC sound decoders.
  3. There is a setting that keeps the App running when you go off to do other stuff on your phone, else it pauses the App. That is documented in the manual. The only time connection is expected to be lost is when you move out of range, although there are other considerations listed in the manual that will break connection, such as if the phone is on silent mode. I have left my modules powered up for days and wander in and out with the iPad. I have to reconnect if I have been out of range. This auto-reconnect has been raised in the suggestions thread.

 

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