Washington's Army

[Ratch]

Here's the next batch of figures I'm working on

I understand the uniforms were not as uniform as the box art suggests

[Shaughan]

Ok, Ratch, I can see how you prepare your figures for painting and I know how good they always turn out. For me and for many others can you advise how you proceed. I usually paint the faces and hands just so the figure looks human, even though it might need reapplying later on. I then do tunic followed by trousers, followed by the fiddly little bits. I look forward to your insight. Thanks in anticipation.

[Shaughan]

As a follow up what tools do you use? Paints are obviously personal choice.

[Ratch]

Ok, sometimes I wash the figures in warm, soapy water and allow them to air dry.

i then use a pin vice to drill a hole in the base. A cocktail stick is poked into the hole. I do this to minimise handling the figure whilst painting - handling can rub off the paint requiring endless touch-ups.

I then prime with an airbrush. I use Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethane Surface Primers.

I then check my references for colours required and list them in the sequence I think will be applied. The figures are sorted into poses so all the standing firing men are painted together, all the marching men, etc etc. Not all figures in sets carry the same equipment and by doing it this way, things don't (usually) get missed.

I usually airbrush horses with two or more shades - lighter tones underneath and darker shades above.

Sometimes I will airbrush skin tones, sometimes i brush paint.

I like to work inside out, that is under garments and working through over garments. So I usually start with breeches or trousers and in sequence, gaiters and boots. Coat, collar, cuffs, lapels and turnbacks. Belts and straps. Accoutrements such as haversacks/bread bags, bayonet frogs, pouches. Hats/helmets, plumes, patches/bags. Fire arms and/or tools.

If necessary, touch-ups follow. It means going back through the colours applied, re-covering the little errors and any sloppy brushwork.

I buy packs of 10 detail brushes (in various sizes) from abc brushes. these usually last about six months which I think is pretty good considering the quantity I paint.

Shop - ABC Brushes

When I'm happy with the figures I paint the bases - I usually use one colour for each set or regiment.

I've recently started using Vallejo Game Wash Dipping Formula 73300 Sepia Shade. Despite it's name, dipping puts too much on so I usually brush it, diluting with water to emphasise the sculpting. I know some folks like to use a black outline but I think it makes them look too cartoonish and not very realistic.

To finish (and protect from handling) I airbrush a matt varnish and when dry the cocktail stick can be removed (and re-used).

Mounted figures can then be stuck to their horses. I use PVA with these soft plastic figures.

If required, the pieces can then be mounted on baseboards. Again, PVA is used to fix them and railway scatters can be added before the PVA dries.

These are the paints I've used so far;

Vallejo Acrylic 74602 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer = undercoat

Vallejo Model Color 70993 151 White Grey / 70907 153 Pale Greyblue / 70989 154 Sky Grey = charger

Vallejo Model Color 70926 33 Red = saddle cloth

Vallejo Model Color 70941 148 Burnt Umber = hair

Humbrol Acrylic 61 Matt Flesh = muzzle, skin tones

Humbrol Acrylic 166 Satin Light Aircraft Grey = officer’s pigtail

Vallejo Model Color 70948 16 Golden Yellow = edging to saddle cloth

Vallejo Model Color 70976 120 Buff = waistcoat, breeches

Humbrol Acrylic 25 Matt Blue = coat, drum rim

Vallejo Model Color 70985 146 Hull Red = coat

Vallejo Model Color 70984 140 Flat Brown = coat

Vallejo Model Color 70975 89 Military Green = coat

Vallejo Model Color 70982 137 Cavalry Brown = coat

Humbrol Acrylic 33 Matt Black = tricorn, half-splatterdashes, shoes, cartridge pouch, ribbons

Humbrol Acrylic 24 Matt Trainer Yellow = collar, lapels, cuffs, turnbacks, drum

Vallejo Model Color 70969 73 Park Green Flat = collar, lapels, cuffs, turnbacks

Humbrol Acrylic 174 Matt Signal Red = canteen, collar, lapels, cuffs, turnbacks

Humbrol Acrylic 103 Matt Cream = collar, lapels, cuffs, turnbacks, drum skin, belts

Humbrol Acrylic 16 Metallic Gold = motif on flag, epaulettes

Humbrol Acrylic 34 Matt White = breeches, belts, socks, field of flag, cords, collar, lapels, cuffs, turnbacks, waistcoat, cords

Vallejo Model Color 70871 147 Leather Brown = saddle, pistol pouches, satchel

Humbrol Acrylic 9 Gloss Tan = canteen, drumsticks

Humbrol Acrylic 21 Gloss Black = tack, officer’s boots, cartridge pouch, bayonet frog

Vallejo Model Color 70872 149 Chocolate Brown = musket stock

Vallejo Model Color 70918 5 Ivory / 70882 118 Middlestone = hunting horn

Vallejo Model Color 70863 179 Gunmetal Grey = musket fittings 

Humbrol Acrylic 11 Metallic Silver Fox = officer’s sword

HTH

[Shaughan]

Thanks Ratch, a definitive answer. Will take it on board. It amazes me that you get through figures so prolifically. I am often on a set for a month or more. My time is limited to about an hour on a morning mind, as I have a dog who is very demanding. Interest usually wains on a paint or build, half way through, slowing matters down.

[Ratch]

Thanks Shaughan, now I'm retired I can devote more time to my modelling - maybe a couple of hours a day on average. Some years ago, Airfix asked if I could paint a complete Waterloo set of figures for the catalogue and wanted them within a month or so. I was still working at the time so had to decline the offer as I couldn't guarantee completion. At the rate I was building then it might have taken three months for me. Nowadays I could probably have completed the 7 sets within a month. Just a question of available time and organisation really.

[Shaughan]

You’re so right!

[Ratch]

These are the brushes I use

My paints

Primers and varnishes

Some of my references

[Ratch]

Washington's Army are nearing completion.

[Shaughan]

Just got my hands on some cocktail sticks and a piece of polystyrene. Can you suggest alternatives for the surface primer as I don’t have an airbrush. Or can you brush on with this as well? Ps Washington’s army is looking good.

[Ratch]

TBH I've not tried brushing it. I would think that brushing might give pools of primer, losing moulded detail. As an alternative to an airbrush I'd suggest Halfords primer. Its an acrylic aerosol and comes in a variety of colours. I'd just be wary of the quantity of paint that may be squirted on. Some folks find aerosols handy. In my experience they're a blunt instrument compared to an airbrush, which can be set to deliver minimal coverage to maintain definition of the sculptured mouldings. It may well be possible to brush on primers, but I have no experience with it.

[Shaughan]

Thanks Ratch.

[Ratch]

Just finished them off.

[Ratch]

I've a few useful reference books and so much can be found on t'internet these days

[Tomek22]

Ratch, thats a very fine work! muscle

[Ratch]

Thank you gentlemen.

[Ken Innes]

Don’t know who was responsible for the creation of Washington’s army figures but they were superior in sharpness of detail than the grenadiers. They seemed in same category as the Waterloo highlanders. Probably wrong but hey ho. It is over twenty years since I painted any figures of any scale other than aircrew for plane models. Not sure what condition they would be in now, they are somewhere in my model room. Can’t work in it unfortunately too cramped. Your pictures have almost got me wanting to dig them out to see but afraid they will have flaked off and ruined them.

I agree with you Rod. Although this set had its faults (don't they all when you study them?) the pose quality and variation were better than the Grenadiers and they were more historically accurate than their "opponents". They all have a place in my heart though.