More questions sorry new to hobby

[malcolm-339157]

are the Airfix magazines still being sold in Super Markets ,News Agents ect ?,also i need a model making tool kit,any idears please,thank you your all very kind.

[Ratch]

Tools

Swann-Morton scalpel

A good hobby knife (not a big Stanley type) with a few blades, straight edged and curved.

Zip-lock plastic bags (various sizes)

Side cutters

Sandpaper/sanding board/file or wet & dry

Glue

A decent pair of tweezers with a good grip at the tips

A wooden block or cutting mat

Any paint brushes you buy should be good quality ones, you will require 3 or 4 different sizes, Winsor and Newton are recognised as being quite good, and look after them.

Modus operandi

Take the boxed kit and with a scalpel, slice through the cellophane or adhesive tape that seals the box, taking care not to damage the box.

Most manufacturers place the mouldings in polybags to protect them and prevent the loss of parts; you should still check that all components are included. If parts are missing you should either return the kit to the retailer for exchange or ask the manufacturer for replacement parts.

Take your time! Not rushing through really helps in all sorts of ways. Preparation of parts helps save time in the long run. With experience you learn to think through some changes in the steps though.

The mouldings are normally attached to a runner by sprue gates. Do not remove pieces from the runners until you are ready to use them.

Read the instructions carefully- you'd be surprised at how often even experienced modellers don't do this at times!

Wash the runners in warm, soapy water to remove any residue of Mould Release Agent, the presence of which will spoil later paintwork.

Allow the parts to dry naturally on an absorbent piece of paper kitchen towel.

It may be easier to paint small components (and/or components that are fitted internally) before they are removed from the sprues.

Use side cutters to separate the mouldings from the sprue gates.

Clean up any excess plastic with a sanding board, sandpaper, file or other suitable implement.

The parts should now be ready for assembly. Cement should be applied sparingly, only applied to the surfaces to be joined. If some glue gets onto areas it shouldn’t, don't touch it! Allow it to dry and then clean up. Give glue enough time to set properly.

A small amount of filler may be needed on the seams so that they won't show after painting. Humbrol do a nice one but always put the cap back on the tube straight away or it will harden.

The joints may be cleaned up with fine sandpaper, or a file.

You will then have to decide upon which type of paints you wish to use. Acrylic paints are pretty good these days and they make cleaning up easier with warm water and less smelly too. Enamel paints take longer to dry and require thinning with white spirit. Some use oil paints; these take longer to dry (days) than enamels and brushes should be cleaned with white spirit; oils are not suitable for airbrushing.

Paint brushes will still be required, even if you decide to use an airbrush for applying the paint.

Give paint enough time to dry completely.

Before you apply the decals or transfers a gloss surface is needed. This is because a matt surface will trap microscopic air bubbles under the carrier film and cause a phenomenon known as silvering. The gloss surface prevents these bubbles from being trapped and the result should appear to be seamless. There are propriety modelling gloss finishes available, but most modellers choose to use floor polish.

Apply your decals using a fixative and a softener for them to conform to moulded surfaces. When dry apply another gloss coat before weathering. This will seal and protect the decals before any washes or pigments are applied. Finally you will seal the decals/transfers under a coat of your choice; Matt, Satin or Gloss (depending upon the subject).

It is worth remembering that you should not rush – more haste really is less speed in modelling!

When you make an error don't jump in to fix it straight away, unless the glue has not set.

If in doubt ask and if you think you already know, still ask - you might find a better way, or maybe your own way helps someone else.

The only daft question is the one you didn't ask. Just remember we all got to where we are by using other people’s knowledge, none of us were born as modellers we all had to learn, and we all made some really bad mistakes along the way.

With thanks to the many members of the ATF who have (unknowingly) contributed to this post,

HTH

[jopres57]

I buy my Airfix magazine from Tesco, it usually arrives on the last Thursday of the month, so the new issue is due at the end of this week.

[Hurricane Boy]

Hi Malcolm

The tools and techniques are covered very well by GOM and Ratch. (I think I will print off Ratch’s Modus Operandi for future reference).

As far as magazines go, I can’t seem to get the Airfix Magazine that jopres57 refers to over here but I have purchased every issue of AIRFIX Model World magazine published by KEY Publishing out of the UK (this is not an AIRFIX publication). It has great articles on techniques, kit and accessories reviews, news on kit releases, basic and advanced builds and does review the new AIRFIX kits with builds from test shots long before we see them on store shelves. After about two years I switched to the the digital version as it has instant and guaranteed delivery (I used to buy from the news stand), it is more economical to buy, takes up no space (except for my IPAD) and you can zoom in on pictures and text for easy reading and “taking a closer look” at the pictures. In the digital format, you can buy back issues that may be very helpful if you are looking for help on a specific technique or kit build.

There are many other magazines that serve our hobby very well too….some dedicated to armour or model ships. Have a look on the web, I am sure that you will find lots of material to help you.

Cheers,

Tim

[Ratch]

Airfix Model World is the only Airfix magazine currently being published. It is wholly independent of Airfix.

[jopres57]

In my previous post I was actually referring to Airfix Model World magazine, rather than Airfix magazine. I tend to think of them as being the same although obviously they aren't.