HM6000 & 6010 and these darn isolated fishplates

[Matty1707822508]

Hi all about a month or two ago if u look up my profile or wateva the discussion is all there but the solution u guys gave me was unbelievably helpful a schematic and but conclusion was that I need those insulated fishplates on my points. Cool I thought! Not so cool in Australia! Firstly I’ve had nothing but drama firstly waiting for a power pack that came finally came then I dunno how it happened but ended up with normal fishplates so I call them and say no I need the plastic ones. Yesterday finally those arrive and they’re R920 black plastic type joiners so again I don’t know if I have right ones or not it’s clearly not the R617 normal plastic type they’re a black type that say they insulated joiners but I dunno and help about that would great. But essentially I’m working with trackmat ext f so finished that and are also working on an extension thanks again in advance everyone was excellent last time

[Fishmanoz]

R920 is the correct IRJ. They are black plastic with a block in the middle to stop the rails touching when pushed home.

R617 seems to be an uncoupling ramp when I look it up?

[Matty1707822508]

I’m soooooo greatful it’s only taken about 3 weeks to get the black ones that’s fantastic new for me mate I finally can pull my points apart and sort this out! Finally uve made my year!!!! I thought oh here we go unless I can get a lift it’ll b 2 week affair correcting this problem. I have two hm6010 now so I’m getting there but someone corrected me quoting r617 I thought it was r917 anyway I’m sooooo very greatful to here I have plenty cause I kinda ordered 3 packs of 12 so hopefully I’ll have enough can now concentrate on more devices if need which I think so there’s so many points as it is and I’m adding on top of that doing my extension. Won’t be massive but just enough for bridge, maybe a town?? I’m sure u know how it is. But I’ve had half a wardrobe full of ballast, water resins just soo much scenery I can finally sort out once trains r running correctly, all relevant point motors are in place practically so this will b great!

[96RAF]

Don’t be in too much of a hurry to lay ballast. Make sure trains are running perfectly first, else you may end up ripping it up again to fit extra wiring, etc.

My layout is almost three years old now and although it has a lot of scenic structures there is no ballast yet.

This post seems to parallel your other post.

[Matty1707822508]

Yeah totally agree about ballasting especially cause really I think it best to goto dcc as soon as I can. But even as u said maybe still need extra wiring. Not the great solderer so and I know apparently they r a weak link I may just go for rail joiner type but then again it think I have enough track to atleast have a go at soldering droppers to rail and being that I can get away with every 3 ft of track it’s not a massive task at all. Every bit of track is a massive task now and sorry I didn’t know I’d basically posted the same twice. Only question is though how do I fit the irj it looks in the schematic to be two where the yellow is and when ever I zoom in it looks like two per point, wouldn’t b just one I need doesn’t power still need to flow through other rail? Or is it correct to have the two where it says on the schematic on how and where to put them as I said it’s just not clear to me if I need on one per rail at the yellow parts or the two as it looks. Also if only one irj do I need it to b on a specific rail and do I do them all on the same rail u know A or B rail but I’m so close to getting my trains running finally. Thanks again for ur helpful

[Matty1707822508]

All good I’m positive it is both rails that the irj’s goto brain fade I think

[Fishmanoz]

Correct Matty.