1/600 HMS Fearless build

[KiwiKev]

A build of HMS Fearless from an old kit, but the Vintage Classic should be the same. Will refer to some detailed plans to make some scratch built improvements.

[KiwiKev]

This looks like quite a nice model despite having a 1968 date on it. Part of the reason is because the sides of the superstructure have been molded separate to the forecastle deck, which allows those surfaces to have detail included that is missing on their models that have the walls of the first superstructure level molded to the deck. There do seem to be some errors that need correcting. I will show those as I go.

[Sailorman]

I built one some 15 years ago at the time I opted for a waterline build. Since I had 2-kits I "stole" some Wessexs from the second kit to make the deck a bit busier. Looking forward to see how you go about it. I'm sure yours will be a better representation than mine

[KiwiKev]

I built one some 15 years ago at the time I opted for a waterline build. Since I had 2-kits I "stole" some Wessexs from the second kit to make the deck a bit busier. Looking forward to see how you go about it. I'm sure yours will be a better representation than mine

 

 

That looks pretty hard to beat. I'm thinking to make some changes. Did you use the original Seacat launchers and Directors? Bit hard to see from that shot, but that's one thing I will change.

[Sailorman]

I remember I used the White Ensign Etched Brass set. I'm not 100% sure about the seacats, but I think I had used resin replacements also from white Ensign Models.

https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+1600+Ultimate+PostWar+Royal+Navy+Set+1+PE+624/5357/

[KiwiKev]

I am aiming to make some changes to the basic model to get it looking like the 1982 configuration. There are some excellent drawings on the Britmodeller site at the link below:

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235036304-hms-fearless-1982-1350-drawings/

[KiwiKev]

This photo shows some of the superstructure modifications under way.

The bridge wings have been extended aft, and under them the original life raft storage has been replaced by 3 thin styrene layers. Various additions and extensions to the superstructure can be seen, the largest being the addition of virtually an entire extra deck right aft with a raised Flyco position. The area above the bridge will have to have the over thick bulkwarks replaced with something a bit thinner in order to fit the custom built Seacat Directors.

[KiwiKev]

Four small Seacat Directors were scratch built to replace the original plain domes supplied. I used 0.5mm styrene for the base and swivel, and 1 mm styrene for the console and aimers enclosed seat with canvas hood that folds back when in use. Basic dimensions are as below:

[KiwiKev]

A little progress. The bridge top watch and director position has had the shield replaced with 0.25mm thick styrene. A slight coaming has been fitted above the upper bridge windows.

Now that the lower bridge windows are on they definitely look too large. May have to re-visit those.

Seacat launchers are scratch built, as are Seacat directors. I've also built scratch built Bofors as the originals seem a bit too large. One of the replacement ones can be seen hooked over the bridge wings but they won't sit level until glued on, and it pays to paint the decks first.

Also visible is the reworked three levels of life raft stowage. I was hoping to find some suitable round stock of the right thickness to cut into 2mm lengths, but in the end reverted to whittling down toothpicks to the right thickness. Not ideal, but the toothpicks were available, so what the heck.

The next photo shows the rear end of the superstructure. This has been built up one deck height. There are two intermediate levels for the ladderways running up alongside the Flyco position. The middle ladderway won't be fitted until the top superstructure is glued to the lower one, and that won't happen until all decks are painted. Thinking about the right sequence helps make the neatest job in the long run, even when its tempting to just glue everything together to see faster progress.

[KiwiKev]

Progress with masts with WEM photo etch. Although I decided to complete the superstructure block separate to the hull and deck to aid in painting, there is a slight buckle in one or both so the superstructure doesn't sit quite flat. I would recommend completing the hull and deck first, then if you want to complete the superstructure separately, tape it securely to the deck while gluing to ensure a good fit. The problem isn't too bad, but could have been avoided.

[KiwiKev]

The hull is fairly plain so a few conduits and panels were added. I also didn't want to put the embarkation ladders in place, so glued them rather arbitrarily on the side of the hull to depict them stowed. I don't think this is accurate, but it just adds some extra detail, so they are the horizontal PE parts. These added parts create a slightly greater impression of detail. I decided to use the as supplied life rafts from the kit that line the flight deck as they were close to the ones I added either side of the superstructure and I really didn't feel like scratch building 30 more canisters.

I didn't like the original prop shaft bracket supports, so glued the shafts in position without them, then added some thin styrene supports that look much better.

[Sailorman]

Looking good!

[KiwiKev]

Not quite finished, a few details like cranes and flyco windows to be added.

The decals in my kit were pretty old and yellowed. I tried the old UV trick of leaving them in the sun to clear them and while it helped in that regard I don't think it did much for their suppleness. The flight deck decals haven't taken very well to the deck. Hopefully the decals in the new release models will go on better, and I would suggest possibly smoothing down the flight deck where they are to be applied, as the slightly raised tie down points don't assist in getting the decals to adhere.

The boot topping on the hull should be about twice the height of the lines marked on the hull, extended upwards only. I presume this is to accommodate the ability to change the amount she drew with ballast tanks to allow the loading dock to be flooded. If the boot topping is only applied between the lines on the hull, that leaves a ridiculous amount of freeboard, more than the height of the flight deck on Victorious carrier model when they are side by side, and that can't be right.

[KiwiKev]

This shot shows the flight deck and aft dock with the PE deck cranes now added. As I've mentioned, not so thrilled with the decals. First time I've done decals for years. These were old and dry, and haven't taken too well, but new ones in a Vintage Classic kit will probably look much better. I would still consider using some decal fixing fluid, AND smoothing down the raised tie-down points on the deck where they are going to be applied.

Bow area looks OK but could do with some touching up, although I was happy with the amount of detail on this kit and didn't add any extras in this area, apart from replacing the kit flagstaff with a home made one out of wire and super glue. Its only about half the thickness of the kit supplied one. I opted not to try and cut out hand rail bars over the long lines of fairleads and bollards but just to run railing between them. Probably not the best way to do it, but easy The scratch built Seacat launchers and Bofors add a nice touch, and I also tried to file down the anchors a bit to give them a slightly finer appearance. You can see the slight uneven gap where the superstructure meets the deck here. As I mentioned in an earlier post, you could avoid this by building up the superstructure glued directly on the deck before painting, but this will result in some tricky painting at the joint. The other option is to glue the superstructure together taped but not glued to the finished hull and deck. That way the gap should be eliminated, and you can still avoid the tricky paint job.

The small landing craft and ship's boats were tricky to get hanging level. I glued the davits into them first ensuring a uniform angle, then glued them on the superstructure deck carefully supported to ensure they set on a relatively even level. This required the base of one or two davits being not quite flush with the deck they attached to, something that isn't really visible, and I was prepared to accept as uneven boats would have been very obvious. Also visible here are some extra conduits and panels added to the hull to increase the detail.

The WEM photo etch crane aft adds a nice touch of detail. An almost finished Wessex is shown here. Having experimented on this one, I will probably approach the second one slightly differently. If that is better, I may redo this first one in the same manner. I am lucky to have two PE sets up my sleeve, so will probably scrap the PE on this one and replace with another set. Definitely recommended to leave all the PE off until you have done most of the painting especially of windows etc... The PE wheels are very delicate and easily damaged when handing this little helicopter.

[KiwiKev]

Some staged shots to finish with. The model is still not quite finished but what is left to be done is hardly noticeable. Final thoughts, this old kit has quite a lot of detail built into it, and can be turned into a really good model, although I still decided to add PE doors and hand rails over those molded on the superstructure, but at least they were there and could be used as a guide. For added detail refer the drawings posted on the Britmodeller site, the URL is posted in an earlier post on this thread.

[KaleuNW]

You were probably also happy when Airfix re-released the model of the HMS Fearless along with a few other ships.

The ship in your skilful construction is really impressive!

I would like the water depiction if the ships weren't depicted so dark.

Try using a reflector made of white cardboard or covered with metal foil to brighten the object when taking photos. Depending on the angle, you can create more or less light and shadow on the model, which makes the model better illuminated and appears more three-dimensional.

From the shipyard on Lake Lucerne

Wilfred

[KiwiKev]

A very basic Seacat Launcher of the type I've made for this model is shown below. You could buy after market parts or design a better one but this gives a reasonable likeness I think.

Part A is 2mm high and slightly tapered. I used some part of the kit I discarded, possibly the supports from the original deck supporting the liferafts either side of the bridge, and cut to length, top slightly rounded.

Part B is 1.5 mm square by 2.5 mm high.

Part C is 3mm by 5mm, 0.5 mm thick, with cutouts 2.5 mm wide to match part B.

Part D is one of four "missiles", 2.5 mm high, probably about 0.5 mm thick rod.

Part E is 2mm high by about 1.5 mm diameter.

Parts F are 2.5 mm high and tapered on one edge.

[KiwiKev]

The kit also comes with two large landing craft and two Wessex helicopters. The White Ensign Model (WEM) PE set for post WW2 ships includes Fearless, and there are landing gears and rotor blades for the Wessex. You definitely have to plan your paint and assembly carefully as once the PE is on it is incredibly delicate. I wasn't so impressed with my first effort at a Wessex, but got the sequence about right for the second one. I based my paint scheme for the LCTs approximately on a Falklands war photo.

Not sure if the paint scheme for the Wessex is accurate, I used the box art for inspiration and just used the closest colours at hand. I scratch built a Wessex for my HMAS Melbourne model from scaled down drawings, and was pleasantly surprised to find the ones in this kit are virtually identical.

[KiwiKev]

View from above including the LCTs and Wessex.