Classic track barrier question

[STEPHEN-373427]

Hi all - newbie here!

I'm just resurrecting a couple of 1980's track sets that I've kept boxed and everything is working (R64 Metro, Audi Quattro, etc!).

I seem to be snapping the lugs off the barriers when I fix them, however gentle I am. They obviously clip in under the edge of the track but just the slightest bending breaks the clips.

What am I doing wrong? Is it just because they are old?

Thanks in anticipation!

Stephen

[Andy P.]

Hi Stephen,

I am a big fan of guardrails and barriers. I am glad Hornby has started adding them to some standard sets.

The short answer is, just like most humans, yes, as they get older they get brittle....

There seems to be a period in the early 80's where plastic is much more brittle. I see that on a lot of other items (toys) as well. Older stuff and later stuff seems to hold up better...

They only things that might help is check the inside lip of the track as the often have some flaring from the manufacturing process.

Running some low grit (80 to 40) sandpaper along then inside of the lip will "break the bead" and also make the plastic a little more forgiving.

If you want to kind to the environment and not throw the barriers out that have lost the lug there are two things I have done in the past:

1. Use hot glue to glue them to the track: Hot glue holds well and can be removed with alcohol. This make of course more sense if the the layout is semi-permanent. Advantages is it goes fast and does not harm the track or the barriers. The glue can come loose though and it can be messy. Also the tip of the glue gun could damage the track if you are not careful.
2. Use a small screw to hold the barrier to the track. Get a very thin drill bit, like 1 to 1.5 mm and drill a hole through the barrier into the side of the track. Then use a screw that goes about 1 to 1.5 mm into the side of the track and screw it in. Advantage is it looks much cleaner and even simulates the mechanics of the barriers a but. Down side is you will have holes in the track and the barriers and it is time-consuming.

On a side note: I have mentioned elsewhere but other 1/32 scale manufacturers make barriers that easily fit i.e. SCX (Spanish Scalextric) and Ninco. They look great and are longer so they take less time to mount. The Ninco ones are a little loose as Ninco track is like .2 mm thicker than Hornby track. Ninco barriers come in high fence versions as well. Vital when trying to avoid nose dives off the table!

Good luck!

[STEPHEN-373427]

Hi Andy,

What a brilliantly helpful answer!

I might try the tiny screw route… thank you.

Whilst on may I ask another question? My track is on a 7’ x 4’ oval marine ply board … does anyone produce a backdrop scenery ideally 10” high by about 6’ which I could curve around the edges of the board (which might negate the need for the barriers as it would stop cars flying off?

Many thanks once again!

Stephen

[STEPHEN-373427]

Thank you very much indeed Andy!

[Andy P.]

Hi Stephen,

Thanks for the feedback. That makes I think 3 times this year that anyone has shown any appreciation to me : :-)

If I understand what you are suggestion you basically want to wall off the edges of the table to prevent cars falling off completely?

Most slot car clubs use fairly thick plastic, usually transparent and staple or nail it to the edges.

I have also seen foam rubber used as it is kinder to the cars.

Cheers

Andy