happy tt Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 hi sorry to ask how do you remove a wheel of a jinty drive axle has the black gear is loos and axle will not turn when the power is on i have just got a replacement from lendon x8199 for it some people on line said i should get a gear puller for it to push the axle out the one i could find was for rc cars to pull the gear of the motor pinon thank you happy tt 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 By the looks of it, it's a classic 'workbench routine special'. For the drivers, is this a really old locomotive, or relatively recent tooling? Relatively recent - last 20 years - tooling locomotives have a screwed on keeper plate. Once removed the drivers should lift out. Idler is probably a gentle / firm 'punch' / push out, and replace similarly. Can you confirm which model Jinty it is - 'R' number? Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Correct me if I am wrong but isn't the Jinty a standard 0-6-0 chassis as Thomas the Tank, Duck and several other locos. You take off the chassis bottom, remove the wheel off one side of the axle the gear pushes off or in your case falls off. You push the new gear on and then requarter the wheel as you push it back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 There is no idler gear on the traditional 0-6-0T chassis, the worm on the motor drives direct to the driving wheel axle-mounted wormwheel. If the wormwheel supplied is from pack X8199 the chassis is comparatively modern and the procedure is as ColinB describes: the chassis bottom moulding unscrews to release the wheelsets and once the coupling rods have been separated from the centre driving wheels, one wheel can often be carefully pulled off by hand to permit changing the wormwheel. If manual separation of the wheelset is not possible, there are wheel pullers on the market: one I used was sold by G W Models of Lancing but retirement may now have occurred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Thanks to GS for clarifying these details. Didn't think it had an idler, hence asking for the 'R' number. When removing one wheel - observe the 'quartering' - it must be very close to how you found it to ensure smooth operation, plus I always remove as straight, smoothly and 'firmly / gently' as possible to avoid deforming / damaging the insulating bush. The gear wheel should just push (or fall if broken) off. Replacing with the new - slowly and as straight as possible, into the same position. Quartering - there are little tools available (see Ebay - I found one there once). I always do it 'by eye', but this is quite critical. Next, there's the 'B2B' - Back-to-Back. Normal uniform throughout the wheel rotation is 14.3-14.5mm maximum between the flanges. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy tt Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 hi thank you all for all you help i bought the model ln 2008 ore 9 the R number is R2674 LMS 7413 is on the side of the cab they where made in china like all things ln this world they where released about 2008 or 9 hi going spare i tried to pull one of the wheels off but they are too hard to pull off l am scared i might do some damage to the wheels so i will have to buy a wheel puller i could not find the model shop online . i will see if l can find one somewhere else or it will be the rc car gear puller that hornby makes ore the one on ebay that is ment for RC cars they do have pins that are 0.9 mm 4mm in diameter i think too push the motor pinion out of the gear so it will come off atom3624 i left the wheel set on a towel on its side so they should go back in place in the middle and i will hope its ok and thank you colinB for you help to😊 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy tt Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 😊i have got one of the wheels off the drive axle and removed worm gear but i can't get new one on i don't want to split it but the hole in middle is to small to fit it will go over the narrow end where the wheel goes but that is it just will not go on is there a way to make the hole bigger a drill bit might do it i think but i am not happy about it🫣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 The plastic worm wheel has to be a tight fit on the splined centre-section of the axle. Normally, it can be pressed in to place by holding the remaining wheel in the fingers of both hands and gently but forcefully pushing the worm wheel in to place with both thumbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Usually they side on the axle and when they reach the knurled bit in the centre it is tight fit. So are you saying it isn't going over the axle to reach the centre of the axle. It is a Lendons one so it should fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy tt Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 hi colinB 😊yes it will not go on and it is from lendon x1899 hornby it was hard to get the wheels off i tried both sides of the axle to see if it would go on but it was the same story both sides i was going to use a drill bit to see if I could make the hole bigger or a round file the old one came off ok it had a crack in it i don't want to force it on it might crack lol thank you 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 They generally crack because the nylon age hardens, the new one should stretch a little. With a lot of mine it was wear on the teeth. Trouble is if you file it too much it will slip on the axle. I must admit I usually just push them on. You could try filing it a little there might be bits left from the moulding process but be very careful. This is not the ideal answer but I suppose if it fails you can buy another one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy tt Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 hi colinB thats right if i file it too much and it cracks i will get some more i think i will have ago and see if i can file it little by little thanks😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 (edited) I've replaced many split gears on N gauge models (certain ones in particular are known for suffering splits). For worm pullers, I have several. My favourite is the Walkera W010 set sold for RC helicopters etc., https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315133841306 For larger diameter wheels/gears I use something like this Expo Tools WORM GEAR PULLER : Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games When replacing an axle gear I may sometimes ream it out just a little if it is way too tight to go over the axle spline, but it does need to be an interference fit. I then use a short length of metal tube and a toffee hammer to tap the gear into place on the spline. Using the tube ensures an even pressure all round. Edited March 2 by ntpntpntp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy tt Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 thank you ntpntpntp if i fail i will try your tip next time if the worm gear is still ok or I will get some more and do it next time I have to find my small files where did i put them? lol 😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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