Wire In Tube

[Martin-369195]

I'm thinking of scrapping my first experimental layout with a new bigger, lighter version.

This time I'd like to have a go with wire in tube for the points.

I'd appreciate any advice or experience on this. What diameter tube, for example, and what diameter of wire?

I've seen some little switches (levers?) somewhere a You Tube video - but can't remember where. Again, any advice or suggestions welcome.

Martin

[ntpntpntp]

It's a perfectly viable method.  The thickness of the wire and tube isn't vitally important unless you intend to include bends in the tube, in which case don't go too thick. Unless you need to, I'd suggest stick to straight lines.   I used w-i-t on a club layout back in the 70s before moving on to point motors on later layouts.    If you have a local model shop which caters for radio control aircraft they'll usually have stocks of various gauges of piano wire and plastic/brass/aluminium tube. 

If you have live frog points then using a slide or toggle changeover switch as the "lever" is sensible as you then have switching for the frog polarity feed. Here's a very short N gauge example. Note the loop in the end of the wire at the switch, this is to compensate for the difference in throw between the tiebar and switch.

 

Here's an example ebay listing for the slide switches (not necessarily the cheapest source, just the first which came up)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264488712752

Edited March 25 by ntpntpntp

[Martin-369195]

Ahh! That's what I'd seen. The single pole, double throw bit meant I assumed it was electrical only.

There are loads on Amazon.

The tube looks to be 1mm or so.

I'll go shopping after work.

[ateshci]

You can also use bowden cables if there's no way of straight and horizontal attachment. Or use the Rev. P. Denny's methods:

(Railway Modeller Sept. '59)

[Hobby11]

You don't have to use either of the above, if you can do straight lines then use rail! What I do is lay the track on cork and then put a layer of thick card across the rest of the layout and cut out a slot from the point to behind the scenery. The photo below shows it on my H0e layout which uses live frog points so it uses a DPDT slider switch. Note that if you are switching Hornby points you don't even need the slider switch. If you do have to use the slider switch (for Peco points for instance) it's good practice to use an Omega loop to take up any slack when the blades are switches as the slider switch will not have the exact throw necessary, this will prevent the point being broken over time. You simply place a layer of paper over the groove to prevent any scenery or glue getting to it! Shows the various stages, the switches are behind the buildings! I'll be doing something similar with my TT layout but without the slider switches and Omega loops are they are all Hornby points.

 

Edited March 25 by Hobby1707822967