Go_West Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Hi RogerB & RAF96Thanks for the comments very kind and just puts me under just a bit more pressure to make this engine work. I might wish I never started it but we will see.With some other jobs out the way had a good go at it to day and now have the oil tank extension made and fitted not as the drawing above as a better idea was to bolt this new part to the old oil tank with 4 crews. /media/tinymce_upload/5b8e762059794530f6536446e623eb41.jpgPicture above is the oil tank as remove from the A3 with the cover the gasket its 4 fixing screws then the oil check valve next you can see the regulator/whistle parts and contact switch wiper and last the body. It was the oil check valve that made me change the design as it would be harder to remove or fit this small screw once the extension was silver soldered on to the old oil tank Even with an access hole drilled through the new extension body. This valve controls the amount of oil that with feed into the main steam passage and is a great improvement and is in fact just like the system that the great western used in the early engines. /media/tinymce_upload/55a30db82c5c9450e961be7971d1e95a.jpgThis picture is of the new extension oil tank taking shape it has a sleeve that locates inside the old oil tank to give a good alignment for the other holes that will be drilled to complete the part. Next was to blank off the old oil screw filler hole and add a small brass block to the underside of the body to take 2 fixing Screws. In the picture below you can just see the 4 mm blanking screw and a ring of silver solder around it. This had to be soldered on both the outside and the inside to stop any leaks of steam or oil. Once this was done then the blanking screw had to have a hole drilled through so the exhaust steam will travel into the extension body of the new oil tank./media/tinymce_upload/900fab7f3b51a787d4badd8d2bd0db97.jpgNow the completed extension oil tank /media/tinymce_upload/482f405480a1b040e8611e239fafb41c.jpgI use a valve in place of the Hornby filler screw just to make refilling a bit easier. (Picture below)/media/tinymce_upload/5f09f7a623977ae624e2ef8877743bc3.jpgHere is the extension fitted together with the old oil tank note just how far forward the new oil filler hole is./media/tinymce_upload/211635a43cb2796c6ffcb6bf41a7cb43.jpgThis now needs to be fitted to the engine and start on the safety valve extension which will be less of a job than this part and hopefully will work as the drawing above. Once this is complete then it looks like all the major parts have been modified and maybe a steam test on the track can be carried out which no doubt will throw up more problems ? Just had a thought will have to fit the slide bars for the cross heads before a track test. Then the electronics for the control system I can see a lot more head scratching on that part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Just as well you know what you are doing my friend. I'm scratching my head already!! R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Well not to much head scratching on the safety valve outlet idea this went well just had to silver solder a piece of brass tube onto the top cover of the safety valve and re drill the 2 small holes up into the tube. /media/tinymce_upload/bb26e272f19526429747a90139c9f298.jpgAt the other end the tube was blanked off and 2 holes added one on top for the jet and one in the end for cleaning out old solder.The body had a hole drilled through the boiler and valve cover then this hole was bored out as a taper see picture below/media/tinymce_upload/02ac025b90f57e776802552e72b63a2c.jpgWith the new part fitted to the engine and a trial fit was then carried out and it all worked OK even if a bit tight so tick that one off the list of things to do. Will have a go at the cross heads next but turning back to the oiling the sight feed system that was on most GWR engines I think was replaced with the Wakefield multi feed oil pump system fix to the running boards no doubt someone will correct me if I'm wrong. The last picture shows the safety valve and the whistle all in place on the engine but it's off to Tesco for the shop it's these little things like eating that get in the way of this job./media/tinymce_upload/972e2de27d21ca94c62c989e52e0dd64.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Thanks for all the info and pictures Gowest. Just been catching up. Wonderful stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 A bit more but not the cross heads and slid bars as I keep putting that off as it will need some fiddling to fit and as its raining can't cut the grass so will sit at the PC for a few hours and work on the electronics.when you think that these great railway companies had a wealth of skills from the design the drawing office and all the different work shops. My grand father worked in the black smith shop at Swindon and later Stratford works these men could work steel parts by hand and eye not a PC controlled c.n.c unit, he said that when an apprentice finished training if his skills needed to be tested he could put his pocket watch on the bed of a steam hammer and drop the hammer stopping it just before it flattened his watch.In the picture here you can see my new electronic printed board being a double sided PCB one side has the motor drive unit the other has a flashing light electronics which gives a flickering look in the fire hole door /media/tinymce_upload/412aa793a62934b0ccee4f8879a7b427.jpgThe idea being that with the regulator shut it's just a low glowing flicker but at the point at which the regulator opens the light will flash much brighter.The next thing is where to fit this little PCB it must be away from heat and water and maybe sealed with a potting compound for that reason. The best place for this is like the Hornby engines is in the cab but if possible I would like to keep the cab free for a crew So may be under the cab floor if room as I did on my 9f./media/tinymce_upload/37da2df0d2660e50463b97dc78440f46.jpgTo fit in this position the frames will have to be cut down so that these electronics do not fail the floor. The electronics have been tested and work OK what is needed now is a small plastic box to fit them in so here you can see my design for this box. It will have two ears on the bottom to line up with the inside of the frames to be a push fit see PC picture below./media/tinymce_upload/d78a147aa826fbb0e91fe8cd7cf713a1.jpgThis is what I was talking about before just by moving a mouse about the text and drawing is done for you and hidden inside the magic PC is all the data to make this box. Just one klick and off it goes and my printer does the rest where are we going in years to come you break a plastic cup by the time the wife's picked up the bits you can print a new one./media/tinymce_upload/52cb5f330d4280a58c3b05a0619d13db.jpgAll clever stuff here is the plastic box being printed what's good about it if you damage it in some way all you have to do is print a new one. All great when it works all them years ago when we built electronic things in tobaco tins as a one off. So the final assembly in place. Needs some wires and a final test plus the switch unit that works in conjunction with the regulator to operate the flashing light. Still don't know if this engine will run on my layout as a question mark hangs over the front bogie wheels?/media/tinymce_upload/1913dd1839ece78ac3a774ffc7abdeb8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Your a chap of many skills Gowest. I didn't really think about it until I saw the clear piping running away to the rear of the loco, I suppose the water is carried in the tender is it? R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Hi Rogeryes your right the water is in the tender but this pipe is much longer so that it can be connected to my air compressor to test and set the valve timing. The little banjo connectors are a work of art by Hornby and mean fitting new or longer tubing is an easy job and can be changed back to the proper armoured tubing. Now you have mentioned the tender you've got me thinking about the work that will have to be carried on that but the engine comes first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 /media/tinymce_upload/9efece3427219f518e9c141517d2cc1a.jpgThe drawing above has the changes to the regulator indicator lights as some may know and can be seen in a couple pictures back of the 2 different printed boards the red and green lights that tell the driver what the regulator inside the engine is doing is it shut or is it about to open? This system works well as Hornby produced them and all my bought Hornby engines run with this design no problem and will stay as produced but building my own engines like the king gives you the chance to change and try something else which in this case is a small reed switch and a magnet fixed to an arm that has a clutch type set up so that adjustments can be made to give the right setting of operation./media/tinymce_upload/c33778a636075dba0354a6cbb12fcabf.jpgThe picture above is this new idea showing the arm and the magnet screwed to it, there is also a second printed board that all the main connections terminate to which will be fixed to the top of the electric motor by a spring clip. see picture below./media/tinymce_upload/b59e501eb04e4e3815757484d10ac0f5.jpgNow the complete assembly with all 3 printed boards in place /media/tinymce_upload/a72870c5307b0083c0997fefba2f2996.jpgThe rear printed board needs some wires that will run up to the connecting board on top of the motor this will also have a small 5 pin socket to make the connection to the main connecting board. If none of this works I'm going to look a right prat ?I see other in the forum have put up pictures say where did I take this picture well I have a picture here below which can be of Swindon works or Stratford works? I was told that they were paying a penny a hour or was it a day more at Stratford so he packed his bags and left for London. I think it is of Stratford but but not sure it is of my grandfather on the right he was a blacksmiths striker I was thinking of him and if he were here now what would he make of these 00 live steam engines./media/tinymce_upload/ef2b8b058dbe4146edc1e69fe5771c0a.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 The loco is coming on well, and starting to look ever more complicated. What a fantastic photo to have, do you know the year it was taken roughly? R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 Hi RogerI have a works picture of Stratford Works with all the smiths shop men and in the centre is a black board and written in chalk is says "GER Loco smiths July 1912 "My grand father in this picture has a moustache which I think he had till his death so this makes me think that the picture above is earlier and before he was married and might be of Swindon Works.My dad picked up some of his sayings and would speak to me in the same funny way his farther spoke to him if we were straightening a bit of metal out my dad would say as he held the metal part and I had the hammer "when I nod my head you hit it" was this the metal or his head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Ha - ha, well at least you seem to have got the right end of the stick, so to speak. Great to have a photo of him, albeit w/o a moustache and certainly w/o a hole in his head. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 /media/tinymce_upload/11af3c8e0db7fd9f3449d74860d7ea9e.jpgThis is the other picture Roger that I said I have he is on the left hand side half way along just above the boys I have put a circle around his head if you can see it. all long gone and built over as the new Olympic games venu. My father worked for the GER later to become the LNER he said that after the take over they rolled up the carpets and lino and took them and desks away leaving just the floor boards and shipped it up north.Did Hornby or any one make a model of a GER engine with GER on it? As it might be nice to have one or maybe build one into a live steam loco if there's a brass kit about not very well up on loco's that were changed from GER to LNER was a B1 ever a GER engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Yes I can see him. Great photo. I'm afraid that as far as your question goes you will have to wait until someone with more knowledge than I possess comes along. Might even be worth re-posting the question, and maybe the photo, in "General Discussion". Might get more folk looking at it then. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 Hi Ri have google the GER loco's and come up with German railway but have now seen an engine a B12 and I think PDK do one but its an inside cylinder engine which would be a challenge but as you say will post on the other forum bit and pos the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hilooks like I might have the info to build a live steam B12 from the other forum page but getting off the point with all this as we must consentrate on the job in hand now done the who do you think you are bit.Looking at these pictures we have the PCB fully wired with its 5 pin plug in the picture below the paper tape around the LED wiring is to protect it from shorts as the biggest problem with these engines is being brass and not plastic shorts are likely but will change to arildite on the final assembly./media/tinymce_upload/3e4865285a99b08a062e155e6e7865db.jpgnow in position on the engine and it all works OK so a fully test in steam is now getting close./media/tinymce_upload/e954728d178c351412c5e8f61171fe39.jpgNow to add some oil and water and try a run test on the track for this we need to use the A3 tender so picture of the complete set up below, over the weekend time permitting hope to post some viideo of what happened?/media/tinymce_upload/b244f66493f9b00143421ff2381fd3d6.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Like yourself no doubt, very much looking forward to seeing that. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Words fail me. No they don't. Fantastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 WTD/R and the others Hi to all watchers have been running steam test on my small track and the results are better than expected. The front bogie is behaving well just a problem with the motor unit and the reed switch PCB and a connecting rod which should be a simple change to make but I must say at this moment in time I'm over the moon with this engine so let's hope it carries on so stand by with a video to come worts and all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Goods news gowest, nice to know you haven't been wasting your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 This is the first steam run of the king just some small mod to do 1 is the reed switch on the regulator shorts out on the front drivers and has blown up the PCB and switch plus the electric motor needs small 20 thou spacers under the front bracket as the heat expands the metal or more like the plastic gear jamming the hole thing up. But pleased that the front bogie worked OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Can you unlock the video gowest, it's marked as "Private". Thanks, R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Hi Rogeri think it works ok now had not clicked on publish but let me know if it's still not working right and with my limited skills in IT will plod through the YouTube page and fix ? I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Looks great Gowest. Hate to tell you but im afraid you've made a huge mistake with the tender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Hi WTDno its in the BR days when they tried different tenders on different engines might have been a good idea as the crew could have a rest and let a new crew in the cab on the long trip to the West Country.i am now thinking about the tender so it will follow in time but this engine needs a name has anyone got a favourite name and why? I was think of Richard the 3rd as he's been in the news after being found under a car park but open to suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 How about a name that wasn't used, or as its Magna Carter celebrations this year King John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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