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My Detailing and 3D-printing projects!


JeremiahBunyan

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 @ JeremiahBunyan                                   

Thanks, I've just got the new roof so have painted that and I;ve fitted the planking above the windows so it is comming together. Still cannot find the Vent on the carpet so I've ordered another.

 

So far the fit is so good that none of the 9 parts in the phtoo are glued! but I will probably stick it all together when I have all the parts.

 

I'll probably post more photos when it is finished.

 

Do share pictures when it's done...Looking forward to them. And this is just a safety concern, as a child I used to have Lego blocks that used to come in various sizes, I similarly used to lose them on the carpet and whilst bigger ones were easy to fine the smaller ones were quite a task. I remember finding them but trodding on them and getting hurt quite badly especially with the sharp edges. My mum used to get a very thin cloth (whatever you fine is good) and cover the mouth of the vacuum cleaner with it and vacuum the carpet. The cloth would prevent any Lego bricks from getting in. Try that...you'll find your parts and no one of any age group will probably end up getting a nasty bruise.

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Are the horizontal RED lines decals too ?

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They look a lot crisper than the painted version in the earlier posted example.

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You'll have to post a 'How To' on how you made the decals.

Hello Chris...

 

Yes the red stripes are decals too. I faced two problems 3D prinitng N gauge trains means that smoothening up the rough bits is far more tricky that a larger scale model. And so even with my average masking skills I wasn't able to get crisp lines simply due to the rough surface and I was far from happy.

 

Decals are far more flexible and so I drew up a set and applied them. I will surely get a "How To" thread going once my exams are done. Though I use the most basic software so smaller things get pixelated to a certain degree. Nevertheless I have some decals to print and I'll take the opportunity to make a "How-To" tutorial and post it here.

 

I'm glad that you found the difference in the red stripes, really makes me feel that my efforts have paid off...Thanks!

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If model rail companies fold then there may come a time when the only way get locos is to make them from scratch/3d printed.

Similarly I also believe that there'll come a time when RTR models just won't be as afforable as they are and we'll soon have to go down the 3D printing part. However I have no date for such an event.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 The outewr shell of my signal cabin is now finished. I just need to get some waterslide paper to do the name plate transfers and matt varnish to get rid of the shiny bricks!.

 

Next on the list is an interior. Iam in two minds wether or not to use a Wills detailing kit or do a bespoke 3D printed interior. The photo below shows the model and the inspiration.

 

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If anyone is wondring the back drop behing my model is an image on my computer screen

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 The outewr shell of my signal cabin is now finished. I just need to get some waterslide paper to do the name plate transfers and matt varnish to get rid of the shiny bricks!.

 

Next on the list is an interior. Iam in two minds wether or not to use a Wills detailing kit or do a bespoke 3D printed interior. The photo below shows the model and the inspiration.

 

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If anyone is wondring the back drop behing my model is an image on my computer screen

 

Brilliant stuff. Glad to see some progress. Regarding the interior, if you want complete accuracy then take the 3D printing route. If not or if by any chance you have no info about the interiors go ahead an make a fictional interior using the Wills stuff.

 

Would love to see your transfers printed and applied.

 

And that backdrop gives me and idea for future layouts...How much do good TVs cost these days? LOL!

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2 days of fiddling around in a CAD programme, 3 days to print and a week in terms of shipping has resulted in this little beauty. Again it's in 1:150 scale and it's an Indian Railways WAP-7 or WAG-9, similar in many ways to the WAP-5 (few posts up), however the WAP-7 or WAG- 9. When I say WAP-7 or WAG-9 I am actually referring to two locos that share the same body and all that but only differ in power output and gearing.

 

WAP-7 (W - broad gauge, A - AC electric, P - passnger & 7 - 7th generation)

WAG-9 (W - broad gauge, A - AC electric, G - Goods & 9 - 9th generation)

 

Luckily it's a two-in-one deal. Another special thing about this project is that I tried a 3D printer locally in India. I hate to say this, but their service is cheaper, quicker and better than Shapeways, don't forget that the quality is at par if not better. It does however have it's drawbacks.

 

Hope you'll enjoy the pictures, I am currently in the midst of my final term exams and I'll resume work (painting and assembling) once they're over. Note that it's printed in different parts, the white parts are separate items and as such I am able to have slightly more detail and the 3D prints are easier to clean up post-printing.

 

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Yes your body shell is very clean I wish I could get mine that good and the fine detail is brilliant well done, look out Hornby?

Ken

Surprising isn't it? No offence to a nation but previous 3D printing trials in India ended up as a complete failure and luckily not a waste of money. I've come across a lot of firms who tried their ill means. I've see people whose printers couldn't even do 1mm detail properly.

 

This however is a friend's company and he offers all the benefits of Shapeways. I decided to give it a go, I was assured my money back if I wasn't happy. As they say, third time's the charm, yes this model was printed thrice and I paid once.

 

Price wise it matches Shapeways give and take a few, quality wise overall is better than Shapeways but this is down to printing more than once and yes there's still imperfections some of which actually end up as plus points. It's printed using FDM technology just like Shapeways. My benefits are that I get the same quality and pay the same but I save huge amounts thanks to local shipping and the lack of corrupt customs officials.

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Here's my latest project. Sometime in 2007 my dad bought me a lovely Mehano set. Mehano is a Slovakian brand also know for it's budget and super-detail range. We've never had enough money to buy their top of the range stuff, but dad bought me this set. Whilst the loco and rolling stock is based on a real-life prototype the colourschemes were all mixed. I got an SNCF GP-9, Conrail hopper, Burlington gondola and a CSX Crane.

 

Since 1999 all my models came as gifts from my family and this set holds a special place in my heart as it was the first set dad bought me. Something I will only improve and never get rid off.

 

I'm starting off with the locomotive and I am hoping to paint it into a Norfolk Souther livery. The Mehano GP-9 is a budget model and so I am adding details such as the sun-shades, grabrails (both seen in the pics), snow ploughs and brass handrails. So I am posting my update so far. So far I've managed to get it painted into a glorious matte black which I personally am drooling over. I still need to get handrail stanchions for the GP-9 and snow-ploughs, so if anyone here knows where I can get some please let me know. My recent searches have yielded some very expensive stuff. I hope someone can guide me in the right direction.

 

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So that's all my modelling progress for now. It's not the best I admit, my grabrails were all made by me and hence they all are different. and in certain areas the paint hasn't gone on well, but to the naked eye many of these things aren't cruelly magnifined.

 

So just reaching out here, there's a few things I need for this:-

- Brass or Plastic handrail stanchions for an HO scale GP-9

- Brass or plastic snow-plough/cow-catcher for an HO scale GP-9

- Norfolk Souther decals for an HO scale GP-9

 

If anyone has any leads or preffered suppliers please let me know.

 

Cheers for now.

J

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Here's something I am currently doing for a customer, though I don't own any T-gauge models right now, it's by far my most preferred scale, yes at times it's frustrating and all that but designing models is simple and the end results are satisfying.

 

And thanks to Hornby for this, their model (or rather pictures of their model came in handy).

 

Hope you enjoy my work

 

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Bear in mind that this is not the final CAD work, it's 90% done, the bogies need to be re-worked and I need to make a few adjustments to the handrails and lamp irons.

 

But this is where T-gauge wins my heart, so small and yet the perfect amount of detail. It looks like a Class 71 and my customer loves it and that's all that matters.

 

Cheers again!

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I don't want to bore you chaps... so I promise this is the last post for the day. All images are credited to my customer in the UK who I am designing all these for. If you'll recall earlier in the thread I shared pictures of Indian Railways MG stuff that we're working on in 1:76 scale. My customer is replicating MG (metre gauge) with 12mm gauge track. I've previous shared pictures of wagons, IIRC an MBC, MGS and ZBVG type. Here's some more stuff, including first test prints of coaches.

 

Hope you'll enjoy it.

 

Latest update with the ZBVG:

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MBC and MGS wagons:

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MG SLR coach (brake van):

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Well that's all folks! Hope I've not gotten you'll bored.

 

Cheers!

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Hi

just made this knob not as good as your work but after putting it in the fumes of nail varnish remover over night came out a little better as it melts the top surface and comes up shining. My 3D prog is not good enough for drawing up any thing better or is it me?

the knob is for some radio control for Hornby live steam that I'm working on.

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Hi

just made this knob not as good as your work but after putting it in the fumes of nail varnish remover over night came out a little better as it melts the top surface and comes up shining. My 3D prog is not good enough for drawing up any thing better or is it me?

the knob is for some radio control for Hornby live steam that I'm working on.

/media/tinymce_upload/0137c7964e30c1dfdee00a68afcbc3a1.JPG

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Hi

just made this knob not as good as your work but after putting it in the fumes of nail varnish remover over night came out a little better as it melts the top surface and comes up shining. My 3D prog is not good enough for drawing up any thing better or is it me?

the knob is for some radio control for Hornby live steam that I'm working on.

/media/tinymce_upload/0137c7964e30c1dfdee00a68afcbc3a1.JPG

Looks lovely...I particularly love the finish. I must try out this nail polish remover trick sometime. If you don't mind me asking, what 3D software do you use and what material you printed it in?

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/media/tinymce_upload/81abe529342508dac7b40d0cd36806db.JPG 

Just produced a replacement chassis for the Triang Coke Wagon. On reflection I probably should have replaced the oil axel boxes with grease ones. I will possibly do this if the test print does not fit. However, this is not due until the end of the month along with a GWR two cyclinder Cordon gas tanker.

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/media/tinymce_upload/159adbd0ecffe4dbbe5eca89f8af8d55.JPG 

I have also just uploaded my GWR Cordon (a gas tank wagon) Initially it was a one piece print as shown here, but I have decided to split it into 7 parts. The Chassis and three parts for each tank to make finishing off, painting and adding weight easier.

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Hi

just made this knob not as good as your work but after putting it in the fumes of nail varnish remover over night came out a little better as it melts the top surface and comes up shining. My 3D prog is not good enough for drawing up any thing better or is it me?

the knob is for some radio control for Hornby live steam that I'm working on.

/media/tinymce_upload/0137c7964e30c1dfdee00a68afcbc3a1.JPG

Looks lovely...I particularly love the finish. I must try out this nail polish remover trick sometime. If you don't mind me asking, what 3D software do you use and what material you printed it in?

Jeremiah

i have "Sketch Up" which I find very poor so must look for a better prog any segestions? As for the nail varnish I have included a picture what you need is an air tight container and a bit of cooking foil to stand the item on, around the edge of the container fold up some kitchen paper and add the nail varnish to this paper it the fumes that do the work after say 6 hours you see a change if you print the item on the highest setting then the results will be better.

once happy with the level of improvement remove and leave to dry as it's outside skin will be soft. 

/media/tinymce_upload/070b9e4fbbeb9fa94b44be4508b57093.JPG

 

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