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My Detailing and 3D-printing projects!


JeremiahBunyan

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@81F

 

Excellent wor on both counts. Looks like the renders are for Shapeways' WSF? If you do get them 3D printed, please share the pictures, I'd love to see how WSF fares with such detail.

 

Cheers!

 

Morning,

 

This is a test print of an earlier attempt in WSF with a light coat of grey paint to show up imperfections, which lmakes it ook as if it's been knitted close up!

 

My finished models would usually be made in WSF polished and then painted with car primer. I then either wash (with Mek-pack) or abrade with fine emery to remove some of the primer and re-prime before a light top coat. This reduces the amount of pitting. This technique is OK for goods wagons that are to be matt finished and/or weathered or underframes painted matt black or but not coach sides etc where you need a glossy surface or a smooth light paint finish.

 

On large flat surfaces I tend to prime, abrade back very gently (so as only to remove the paint) about two to three times which can produce a vey smooth finish (like my saddle tank mentioned earlier).

 

In the case of my signal box I used WSF for the brick and roof  deliberately because I wanted a rougher texture and FUD for the woodwork which was either very fine or needed a smooth surface.

 

/media/tinymce_upload/e4ed6061ba23f9eefbb8ed21b82ef0bf.jpg

Sadly when I made the model above I simply scaled up a set of N gauge drawings which resulted in a 1:74 scale model but the one I am printing now should be right!

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Hi

just made this knob not as good as your work but after putting it in the fumes of nail varnish remover over night came out a little better as it melts the top surface and comes up shining. My 3D prog is not good enough for drawing up any thing better or is it me?

the knob is for some radio control for Hornby live steam that I'm working on.

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Have you tried "TinkerCAD"? It's quite good for fine works but cylingers or arcs tend to look "planked" requiring some after production work with primere and filing.

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81f, how long did it take to draw the GWR Cordon? I assume you used an an app? Is this process easy to do?

It's difficult to say how long this took as I tend to copy previous thing and modify them so I do not have to redraw axel boxes, springs and other standard parts. However the Coke wagon chassis took less than half an hour since I adapted the Cordon chassis

I used TinkerCAD for this one which is oK excet when it comes to cylinders (see post above)

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Jeremiah

I have "Sketch Up" which I find very poor so must look for a better prog any segestions? As for the nail varnish I have included a picture what you need is an air tight container and a bit of cooking foil to stand the item on, around the edge of the container fold up some kitchen paper and add the nail varnish to this paper it the fumes that do the work after say 6 hours you see a change if you print the item on the highest setting then the results will be better.

once happy with the level of improvement remove and leave to dry as it's outside skin will be soft. 

 

Hey,

 

I've got a surprise for you, I use SketchUp too. It seems poor, but basically you just need to have A LOT of patience and know how each tool works.

 

At the moment I am happy with SketchUp, yes it does have problems from time to time, but hey! it's not the end of life.

 

I am currently learning how to use 3D Studio Max.

 

 

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Morning,

 

This is a test print of an earlier attempt in WSF with a light coat of grey paint to show up imperfections, which lmakes it ook as if it's been knitted close up!

 

My finished models would usually be made in WSF polished and then painted with car primer. I then either wash (with Mek-pack) or abrade with fine emery to remove some of the primer and re-prime before a light top coat. This reduces the amount of pitting. This technique is OK for goods wagons that are to be matt finished and/or weathered or underframes painted matt black or but not coach sides etc where you need a glossy surface or a smooth light paint finish.

 

On large flat surfaces I tend to prime, abrade back very gently (so as only to remove the paint) about two to three times which can produce a vey smooth finish (like my saddle tank mentioned earlier).

 

In the case of my signal box I used WSF for the brick and roof  deliberately because I wanted a rougher texture and FUD for the woodwork which was either very fine or needed a smooth surface.

 

/media/tinymce_upload/e4ed6061ba23f9eefbb8ed21b82ef0bf.jpg

Sadly when I made the model above I simply scaled up a set of N gauge drawings which resulted in a 1:74 scale model but the one I am printing now should be right!

 

You have much more patience than I have. I can sit all day with SketchUp, but not sanding WSF. I do however think WSF is the best so far for a lot of applications and it's price is pretty good too.

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The latest impulse buy....

 

I'm over the moon with it, this model will surely be detailed after a few weeks. I've always been fussy about Hornby's AC electrics and all that, but I am quite pleased.

 

Only downside is the gigantic pantograph, but it actually picks-up current and drives the loco, so I love it.

 

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/media/tinymce_upload/1fd3dc6d3e632efebda8e01629358963.JPG

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/media/tinymce_upload/f0307e073c9aecc1ea1415ea353fb8e4.jpg The final verson of my GWR Cordon Gas Tank wagon 3D printed in White strong flexible material and painted black with commercially produced wheels (Hornby), buffers (Markits) Brake stanchion (Markits, wire handrails etc and couplings. 

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 My next projext will be a TADPOLE (a GWR open fish wagon. I have already got the Dean coach bogies made from a previos project and am adapting my bullion van chassis for it. I am in two minds weather or not to combine the body and frames into one print. If they are in two it is easier to paint in different colours but a one-piece print would be stronger so I might be able to reduce the amount of strenhgthening bars in the chassis.

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  • 1 month later...

/media/tinymce_upload/be0e81249439ec971c82c3f126963b4d.JPG

Just finished the virtual model for a 3D printed GWR 6 wheeled Tadpole (an open fish wagon) Although the computer generated preview above shows it in one piece I have since split the body from the chassis as I intend to make the an alternative body with the Guards compartment.

 

As an initial tryout I have ordered the parts in White Strong Flexible material as it is the cheapest just to check fit. While this is good for the chassis (being flexible) I may print the body in Frosted Ultra detail as this should show up the rivits better.

 

I am fairly confident that the chassis will work as it is based on my previously sucessful 6 wheeled siphon chassis but without running boards. The only down side is that I suspect that the central wheel (hornby 14mm) will have to have its flange turned down so that it can go around bends!

 

I have also started a bogie version to use my Dean 6'4" bogies that I produced some time ago but this will be a while off.

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  • 3 weeks later...

/media/tinymce_upload/33b50d6a61fa08ac7136941f5fe6676a.JPG

The almost finished £D printed Tadpole (just needs lettering). The white strong flexible material doesn't look too bad after painting so might make a few more. 

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/media/tinymce_upload/33b50d6a61fa08ac7136941f5fe6676a.JPG

The almost finished £D printed Tadpole (just needs lettering). The white strong flexible material doesn't look too bad after painting so might make a few more. 

That looks beautiful 81F!

 

I am back from my 2 month long haitus and I'll be posting some progress soon.

 

Cheers!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey!

Here's a 1:150 scale Indian Railways WAP-7 electric locomotive. Currently the most powerful express passenger locomotived owned by the Indian Railways. It's cousin the WAG-9/WAG-9H share the same body and internals with the exception of gearing therefore the WAG-9 becomes the most powerful freighter locomotive currently owned by the Indian Railways.

 

This model is for a dear friend who had this 3D printed in India. Results are satisfactory, not Shapeways good but good enough.

 

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/media/tinymce_upload/a6319970d8d7fbfedc2f3a33a42e5fb0.JPG

 

As usual all the decals are designed and printed by me.ere's an update after a long time... (thanks to shifting my residence twice)

 

Sorry for the picture quality, phone isn't the best choice. More updates to follow.

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  • 2 months later...

 Been doing m,orebogies lately, 8' GWR American for a kit built Slip Coach I bought off of ebay and some Fishbelly bogies for some toplight composites of similar construction. The original bogies were white metal and had round ended axels, also there were no couplings other than remains of 3 links.

 

Sorry won't upload photos

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 My latest 3D project is a bit of an experiment in that I am trying to make replacement axels for the standard 0-6-0 chassis with extensions to take outside cranks. At present I am waiting for Shapeways to do the first test print in plastic to check dimensions and ensure that the Hornby wheels and gears will fit. If this works I'll get some printed in metal.

 

If this is sucessful I hope to make a clip on body for an outside framed GWR pannier (and/or saddle) tank loco..

 

Sadly I still cannot upload images :{

 

As an aside does anyone know of a good on-line photo of the real GWR resturant car the hornby model is based on? I cannot help feeling that it should have more gas tanks than the model has and am thinking of doing some 3D detailing components for the three I have.

 

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 My latest 3D project is a bit of an experiment in that I am trying to make replacement axels for the standard 0-6-0 chassis with extensions to take outside cranks. At present I am waiting for Shapeways to do the first test print in plastic to check dimensions and ensure that the Hornby wheels and gears will fit. If this works I'll get some printed in metal.

 

If this is sucessful I hope to make a clip on body for an outside framed GWR pannier (and/or saddle) tank loco..

 

Sadly I still cannot upload images :{

 

As an aside does anyone know of a good on-line photo of the real GWR resturant car the hornby model is based on? I cannot help feeling that it should have more gas tanks than the model has and am thinking of doing some 3D detailing components for the three I have.

 

Sorry, cannot help with the GWR stuff....but I am still waiting to be able to upload images too.

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  • 3 months later...

/media/tinymce_upload/3747f791a90b28268a28c31932d035f5.jpg 

My latest 3D printing project? Well not exactly, I started it about a year ago but have only just picked it up again!

 

It is the GWR Collett 8 wheeled tender chassis which i am trying to make for the old Dapol/Hornby Castle class tender body. Note I haven't quite got it to sit low enough on the chassis and its a little too high at the loco end. Once I have rectified this on the print I'll start adding the spring detail.

 

This test print is in white strong flexible material which is probably too grainy for the level of detail but I will try to get the thing running right before printing in a higher detailed plastic.

 

Supprisingly it will negotiate a peco 2' radius point as there is enough slop in the wheels.

 

PS can you tell the one Bachmann wheel set from the three Hornby ones!

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