Yelrow Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Pidder/ M crook, Hi, in my case, i do not have Railmaster on this computer, and my problem, was getting the Driver, and installing it in Device manager, replacing the one that was there. I do not have, nor want windows 10, but until i had carried out this step, i was in same position as you. Having done that, it failed on first attempt, as i was impatient, and did not wait long enough. I bow to the superior knowledge of Criss, and Raf, and fail to understand why anything else would be involved. I only offer this post, on the slimmest chance that one of you , may have been in a similar position to me. Good luck. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 My test box Elite is sitting on the bench in bits so I thought lets update that one again.I just powered it into Update 'mode' without much clock watching, plugged the USB straight in and set off the update file.Com error. No surprise there. I restarted the update routine and again without much regard to waiting time and it updated this time without a problem, so it does work even when you are a bit slapdash with the waiting routine on some PCs. I add this experience purely as encouragement to those 2 folk having problems. It can be done, but there must be one slight detail wrong on your PCs that is baulking it. What this thing is remains to be seen. Keep at it.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelrow Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 That was why i offered the Device manager bit. I have no wifi on my laptop, due to location, so had to resort to different computer. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 yelrow Could you please explain what you did to uninstall and reinstall whatever is needed in Device Manager? Think this may be significant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelrow Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Pidder, when i first looked in device manager, on com port 4, was something that i did not recognise (forgotten the name, no doubt someone will tell me ), however , i had to delete it. Obtain RM driver, then drag and drop it into Device manager. Once it was there, it took a couple of goes, but then, it updated. This was what i was alluding to, as it occured to me, that this was a possible prob, in your case. hope this helps. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Thanks, I'll try that. I'm not using RM or Elink, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Seeing as we seem to be in a state of flux, I would be tempted to go into DM, see where the Elite is, delete it including ticking the box for the driver.Then unplug the Elite before DM rediscovers it again and for complete assurance shut down the PC, wait 10 minutes and reboot it from cold.Then repower up the Elite and plug in the USB, following the instructions about installing the driver. I think this is the key to the update failure. If possible let Win 10 sort it out for you, rather than pick this, play around with that.Try the Elite update again once you have got the rest of it on its feetRob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Rob Thanks I have printed out your instructions and will try, will let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augustus Caesar Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 @pidder Just a quick note to alter something RAF says... sorry RAF, not a criticism or anything... No need to wait 10 minutes for a cold boot of the PC. You only need wait 20 to 30 seconds and 1 minute max. for any cold boot. Reason? All it does is clear the temporary memory on the chips and any electrical charge within which may just hold some cache to the hard drive as well as the chips. So once you do the rest of what RAF says then just give it a minute to be sure and boot up again. Cache and temporary memory cannot be held or last more than the briefest amount of time which is why you need not wait too long before a cold boot.This goes for ANY item that uses caching like computers, tablets, mobiles, DVD recorders and anything with a drive or memory chip that uses temprorary memory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelrow Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Raf , good call. Presume your 10 minute wait is while wine reaches room temperature. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi all, I've been trying this all afternoon. Did get one try where it showed “Downloading", but the download indicator didn't move, not even any indication, gave up after waiting about an hour. How long should an update take on a laptop with a 1.3 processor? I understand about waiting to reboot, then have to wait about a minute for that awful ring thing to settle down. Perhaps I should see if anyone in the family has a different make, some folks seem to think HPs may be the snag. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Raf , good call. Presume your 10 minute wait is while wine reaches room temperature. johnAbsolutely John...got to get these things just right. @AC - the standard help desk advice is also to pull the mains plug out (and remove the battery on a laptop) but I think thats going a step too far. @Peter - Look at the PC Types as if a car gearbox - 1 is slow gear, 2 is mid gear and 3 is fast gear. With a fast PC it will be able to keep pace with Type 3, with a regular PC it will keep pace with Type 2 and an old PC will only plod along on Type 1. As to how fast or slow the progress bar moves - if it takes less than 2 minutes to run across then its going to fail and you should try a lower Type number. If you have a very fast PC and you choose too low a Type it can take forever - over an hour is not unusual, indicating you should have chosen a higher Type number. You are looking for about 5 - 10 minutes for a good install. All these Type settings are doing is matching the rate the installer passes the update information with the PC's processing capability - a question of balance. The installer either sends it page by page or line by line depending how fast the PC can read it. At least you have seen the downloading progress even if it didn't finish the job.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 There are no reports of HPs failing with the latest updater, there are no reports of fails at all with the latest updater, with the exception of this one. Do try it with type 3, and leave it running while you go out to buy more wine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Thanks, I'll give it one more go, then try another family PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augustus Caesar Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 @AC - the standard help desk advice is also to pull the mains plug out (and remove the battery on a laptop) but I think thats going a step too far. @RAF This IS definitely too far. There is absolutely no need whatsoever to pull a mains plug just to dissipate a charge from chips where cache is stored. Once the machine (PC or laptop) is switched off that cache is removed after only seconds whether mains or battery powered at the time.Nor is there a need to remove the battery unless a laptop will not power up when connected to the mains or battery itself and you KNOW there is a charge in the battery. Why? This is when a little charge is still contained within the chips (very unusual but it does happen now and again) but for no apparent reason the machine will not power up. All you do is simply make sure the laptop is NOT connected to the mains and that the battery IS removed. Here's the added rub... press down on the power button and hold it for around ten to twenty seconds and release. Then put the battery back in place and power up or simply connect to the mains with or without the battery and power up. Works every time unless another fault is inherent.Some shops know about this little 'fix' and will charge a good few quid to boost their coffers and it really is a very simple thing to do. They keep the machine for a few hours just to make it look good. To do the same thing for this discussion is not required of course. Some motherboards still receive a charge when on its own standby mode but this isn't really doing enough to justify pulling the mains plug. If you have an on-off switch at the rear of the PC you could use that if you want to be absolutely sure but there is generally no need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 As an aside - we are always being told to not leave things on stand-by, then they put the master off switch on the back where you can't get at it! (I use one of those remote control mains switches - then I know that EVERYTHING is off!)((except for the trickle of power the remote switch uses!))edit for a typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 @ACI knew about the power button trick and have indeed used it once to impress a know all friend who declared his laptop dead after it refused to boot following a spate of blue screen of death episodes. Well off topic now but it was a duff memory module in the end found by running some diagnostics after getting it boot using the button drain method. Almost back on topic - my parts have arrived so it is micro-soldering today in attempt to fix my Elite programming failure fault. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Just to keep my topic going, I've had no success updating my Elite with my HP laptop so I'm hoping to get acces to my son-in-laws to try his. Not sure what he's got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augustus Caesar Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 @RAF Off topic just for a second or two... I figured you may know about that trick but I put it out there for those who were not aware of it... good luck with the new attempted fix for your long suffering Elite. :-) @2e0dtoeric Using those anti-surge remote switches myself considering I cannot get to some 'blocked off' mains sockets... someone needs a medal for inventing those! Back ON topic now... sorry for diversion... @pidder Keep us up to date with your problem and, of course, the test on the son-in-law's machine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Of course, just hope I shall have some good news. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Update... Tried with my son-in-law's Toshiba laptop today, with much the same result. On the second try we got as far as "downloading" but no indication in the download bar and the little bar beside the selected type of PC kept pulsing. Is there anything else I should do or try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Two different PCs with the same result. Either you are still not doing the process correctly or your Elite is at fault. Maybe now is the time to get Hornby to update it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Chrissaf ... Thanks for your quick reply. I may just try again tomorrow, but I'm sure I'm following the instructions and all the advices. As you suggest, perhaps a return to Hornby is the solution. It really shouldn't be as difficult as this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Pidder, on the PC you are trying to use for the upgrade can you post a screen capture showing the Device Manager tree branch I have highlighted in the image below. Note you will need to have your Elite connected and powered, else the entry I want to see will not be visible. I believe If I recall correctly you are a Win 10 user, please confirm this to be the case or advise what Windows you are using if not Win 10../media/tinymce_upload/dcbcf8a3891ca609d0b1f7e8bf33af09.jpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pidder Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Chris Using my tablet to reply. The Device Manager tree is exactly as you show, only varying depending on which USB socket I use. My laptop has Windows 10. I'll leave things till tomorrow. Good night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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