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Hi I have a large 6 base system was working fine not now I've cleaned the track with white spirit to remove dirt etc,replaced braids with copper ones, gone all way round with meter reading 13.70. Even tried a new car. But still only goes half way round.any suggestions before I destroy it thanks

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You might try selling set on ebay instead of destroying it.

The buyer will understand that when the power stops on the track, there is a bad connection.

He/she will check proper alignment of track, add jumper wires, or as done here bit of vasoline on metal connectors.

Then the new owner will be happy because he fixed the track so easily and did not have to change parts of the car.

Will be looking for a bargain soon right ? 

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@gorp: Why do you word things this way? Do you really think that is helpful? Are you trying to be funny? If so I think you are about 1000 miles off! A lot of people read these forums and many simply do not get that you are trying to be funny. Likely no one here knows you personally and while maybe while you are speaking this may sound funny but if I read this, black on white, it comes across rude and cruel. I have warned you before so please be careful.

@midnight Racer: There is atop tip section for both digital: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/scalextric-digital and for track maintenance which applies to both digital and analog: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/support/track-maintenance .

Now while gorp's style is not something I consider worth replicating, he does have a point. Likely there is simply a break somewhere in the chain. After checking all the connections you have a few options for testing the track.

Using an Ohm-meter (sometimes called a multi-meter or voltmeter) you can see if there is an electrical connection by taking pieces you know are fine and connecting them then adding pieces you are not sure about until you find the piece(s) that fail(s).

If you don't have an ohm-meter you can do the same by making an oval and adding pieces and racing a car round until you find the offending piece(s).

13 meters is not huge and with track in perfect condition not a problem (assuming you have 2 power supplies for more than 3 cars). YOu may want to use booster cables though if the track is fine but you still experience power drops.

 

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Try removing the track section where the car stops, and see whether it runs on the rest of the track.

If it does, replace the section with a good spare, or check for dents/junk in the groove/bad connections etc.

If it doesn't run on the rest of the track, push it along until it does - and pull out the section at that end as well.

 

Your meter prods may be reading a good voltage but bits of braid in the slot might be shorting when the blade hits them, also changes in level may be lifting the braids off the rails. Try running the car in darkness - do you see any sparking? Is this a problem with just one car/one lane or all of them (check them all!).

 

Extreme test - run another car a little behind the first - if it stops at the same time, it's probably a short circuit. If it comes along and stalls at the same place, it should be a bad connection.

 

Best of luck - 

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original post stated "cleaned track with white spirit"

why ?

also stated track was working properly before cleaning

net search says white spirit does not conduct electricity

suggest cleaning rails again with a more appropiate liquid cleaner 

use choo choo rail cleaner and tiger milk here for decades to clean rails and believe wd40 works also to remove spirit that could be dried to top of rails and track connectors 

lastly adjust your braids

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"replaced braids with copper ones"

copper braid is usually thicker

If using the 2 piece round guide, proper installation of braided piece is necessary

to avoid 99% of digital failure found here, the stopping, jerking or uncontrolled full speed.

The poorly designed 2 piece guide unfortunately can slip apart while using and require reinstallation.

To install a thicker braid will make proper installation difficult.

Suggest replacing copper braided part with a correctly installed standard part to see if that is the problem.

 

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Great

Not only had not heard of white spirit or what it actually means it different countries,

now a new word to ponder, balistol.

Think will keep working here using what know is designed for use and works well over decades of slot use.

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 hem, do you get 13.70 Volts on both tracks? and between the two rails? and what about lcd display, is it pluged in?

I ask if 13.7V is on both tracks, just because a meter with high impedance should not raise the rails to this value. Each track is supplied with a H bridge, doing an astable flip-flop, but in high state mode, the two rails stay at 7.5V above ground level of ground of supply-bloc. When crow-barred, the two rails raise to 13.7 Volts refering to the ground of supply-bloc.

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