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Anytime would prefer sw over inline for racing. Handling is affected by guide to rear axle length, variables in stock motors, gear ratios, tires, magnets, body weight, and position of motor. Avoid front motor cars.

As for comparison between the arc pro and the advanced power base. The arc pro with 1 power pack is like an upgraded pb4 (which also could only really run 3 cars and it can also run analog using my glad system ). The advanced is like an upgraded pb6 (which was then called pbpro-sh when available from enthusiasts , for more than the advanced today ). Currently both the arc pro and the advanced are available on this site. The arc pro cost more.

the arc one is no longer listed on this site it requires compatible smart phone or tablet for lap counting it may need pair of sport to classic converters, c8222 personally prefer previous generation battery lap counting when she answers the questions we should know what scale and what track system her dad owns as for question # 2 and 3 can be replaced with does it have a round and square plastic end or 2 round ? ( see c8222 on this site )

do not use r 1 use a rubber band

NO !!! DO NOT CONNECT THEM ALL TOGETHER For 1 pack per lane, use 2 power bases, and disconnect the 2 wires from the rails on lane1 from one powerbase and then do the same with lane 2 from the other. power base. Then plug controllers into each powered up lane. Connect power packs and go race.

There are simple diagrams on line that show track wiring. There are also dealers on line that sell old parts.

If you still have the cars, depending on condition, if sold online, could pay for a modern sturdy, lower cost set for the grandkids to crash about on. Generally the more detailed cars are more fragile and expensive. If you buy such a set without selling the old cars, suggest strongly keeping them as shelf queens. If you decide to use the old cars on a track, you need to check if the axels ,motor and gears still turn and lightly oil all moving parts. Clean guide brushes and connect 9 volt battery to check wiring and motor. Tires will need replacing ( check dealers on line ) , since they have turned to stone or broken off. The plastic bodies will be very fragile.

Those pesky missing little details. 1 What scale is it, so how long is a car ? 2 How old is the set, so will know how to answer question. 3 The power base, the part that the controllers and power pack is connected to does it have any words on it ?

Commented on under controllers. Appears have to answer basicly the same question by the original poster on this subforum.

Thanks, found by typing brake mod in search forum on this page at upper right, then by content on right and click. Perhaps a my quick read is wrong, but it sounded like connectng another kind of powerbase through a modified arc one, just to use the ones app.

It is my understanding that no system, other than challenger, memorizes the track, which was the question.

Still designing the old way here. But at slotracer.online, they have numerous track plans as do other slot sites. Just looking at ads of sets will reveal quite a few designs. You probably own the classic system with round snaps as opposed to the deeper slot sport system with straight snaps of the last 20 years. That alone will require connectors to use digital powerbases and lane changers with the older track. So if it is classic, you might want to sell it off and convert to 21st century track.

Answered under similar power supply question you had.

Just guessing not enough power is available. Is there not info on the powerpack itself ? Did the commercial track run on low amps for only homeset cars with high ohm controllers withhout brakes ? You will probably have to toss the arc one, controllers and powerpack and rewire track for more amps and low ohm controllers with brakes or put the falcons back on the shelf.

Other options when running the slim ff can is to replace it with a slower version, turn down the power, change the app or just dont buy toys with them in.

With a new set, when cost out, the included sport track is basicly free, but after that you pay for more. Set costs can be figured by retail cost of cars , powerbase, controllers, powerpack and any special track like digital changers inclluded in the set. The old flashlight is free but you pay for the batteries theory.

Challenger was out in middle of first decade. Would beat you if set up properly after learnig the track Came as analog but did convert one to digital but really pain to do and set up either way is time consuming, while crashes would force setting up again. Hard to find today and a rubber band can beat you too.

So are you betting the lockdown lasts longer than your upcoming marriage ? And with tight funds, your priority now, is buying any kind of slot car set ? Good luck with that .

After reading your question several times to try to figure out what you just found out about and might want to buy, guessing you are talking about the vintage classic track pacer which is just a more expensive replacement for the rubber band. Digital arrived in 2003 using wired controllers to change lanes. Arc is 3 powerbases that can use apps for control. Two are analog only ( do not change lanes.) with choice of wired or wireless controllers. One, arc pro is digital and can be switched to run analog, all while using wireless controllers. More info is found here and by searching the net.

Have never had problems with scaly sport track connections in 20 years of using it after my 60s revell. (scaly is designed for serious track building while revell had to be hand cut ) It is generally harder to disconnect if not done properly. The classic from before the 21st century was shallow and thought those connectors were poor. The picture missing is that of the overall track. Have seen gaps like that before due to improper assembly caused by ignoring the math when trying to fit the wrong pieces together without straightness when balancing the track. Suggesting using a ruler and yard/meter stick to check straightness. Learn the proper width of curves avaiable on line but apparently missing on help and advice at top of page. Taking notes helps with measurements. Invest in shorts for track building and have some quarters and halves too. Improper track connection will cause loss in power as will improper 2 piece guide assemby following accidents or pulling car backwards or the replacement of braids. If the controller will not operate properly on both lanes, it is probably bad.

Have never owned a scaly banked curve because felt they were less stable than flat track and because had raced on carrera set banks which are notorious for bottoming out for longer wheelbase aka guide to rear axle slotcars such as f1s and nascars (plenty of mine went down on them at speed so only solutions were to avoid that lane or change cars). However if you want to add additional supports to yours, try something at home that will work such as checkers or pill bottles or empty paper tubes etc.

forgot to add halves to balance out singles

Saw that you have posted 3 times about this problem today. Please go to slotracer.online and read the missing arc manual. Then do not panic and try using app by the instructions you found there. If you do have an arc pro, then your problem could be using the included digital cars from the set to run on the analog setting, which is setting the switch on the left side of the power base toward the track , instead of on digital which is setting the switch toward the front of the powerbase. Otherwise slow down.

Tighter ? As in tighter radius of curve ? Use rad 1 and rad 2 together for racing on lane 2 and 3, by using single lanes for curve to straight connection, and shorts to balance it all out. Piece of cake.