gorp

What is exactly is limited space ? Have covered what is required for pitlane earlier in this vary topic. Believe if you click on pictures of set , you will see some possible designs , but since you are just starting , you should build and figure out for yourself what you like, if you buy set. And again since you seem to know little about digital , suggest you not buy pitlane until you have space , parts , and real reason too. As for inside or out, that depends on what limited space, you have available after building a track.

STRONGLY AGREE Probably buy a couple chappy 2d , IF not screwed up by using bike motor.

Your very welcome Kev. As an antique in this hobby , have learned from others, many long gone, that sloting is a hobby that is not really about winning , but to have fun. Yes give advice , most is correct but sometimes is wrong , but so is life. We learn from our successes and failures. gorp

Wow , save $5 and get plastic but no info on what is inside other than 2 convertor pieces , 2 straights , 2 vipers and a bunch of standard curves . (surprised is not 4 convertors and what exactly is a convertor for start ? ) Is there any feature about start , that makes it desirable over sport ? For some reason, think in the days of covid and brexit , that start is desperation . Hope am wrong.

About those curved changers ; Had 8 and sold them all off because straight dual changers were simply better and took up less space. Earlier ones needed surgery underneath to add a dimple to allow car to follow lane selected. After mod when analog was then able to be used on them , you needed to tape down the moving changer or else you car can change lanes.

You are missing 2 of the toughest, low cost digital cars scaly ever made. The original porsche boxster and the follow up audi tt. Did not appreciate them when first set came out but they are amazing with 1 piece guides and only weak point is guide wire would eventually break and then it is a quick solder job and off they go again. Believe the audi has slight handling edge due to shorter wheelbase but either is good choice to run. Finally saw the actual cars during the virus shutdown at the hospital , while working part time #1. Wow, figure they were in this pickup truck/suv buckeye backwater because cle system now operates it. They and the tesla and occasional ferrari add some modern car culture over the endless vintage car shows.

OK time for you to do your own diagnosis. Buy an ohm/multimeter. They are not that expensive. The only constant in this puzzle is power. Measure power output of powerpack alone before plugging into track. Measure voltage on track at powerbase after controllers are set by rubberband or tape. Put cars on track. When cars start to slow down, take both off. Measure voltage on track again. Disconnect powerpack from track and measure voltage again. If track and powerpack alone remain same voltage , then problem is cars. If powerpack alone has lowered , then problem is powerpack. If only track at powerbase has lowered , then problem is powerbase.

thats 2003 , not 2008

If you do not want to race analog , do the easy riko mod at slotforum , pinned at top. It makes the original arc pro, that you have , into a great digital powerbase and you do not need to correct curved changers to use them. But if you want to use the curved changers in track for analog racing , they will need to be corrected ( power to lanes separated ).

Do yorself a favor and put up some barriers to prevent cars falling on the floor. Have used screwed in thinner foam or faster application of rolled towels instead of usual boards.

What happens when 2 cars are slowing down and you take 1 off ? Does the other 1 go fast again ? Did you try contacting Alan Smith at 132 slotcar. us. ?

What ? Adjust a router frequency ( ?) to fit an adjustable pro ? Makes me glad have backup lap counters.

Better release the emergency brake. Or the tires are old and dried out , thus no traction and need replacing. If the trucks are non scaly they may have a thicker guide than the slot can handle so guide needs replacing. You have plastic underneath keeping tires off of track.

Any ? Perhaps you do not know that arc pro runs digital AND analog. All cars need black guide (available as replacements) for lap counting and for other only digital functions. For digital , sometimes depends on how good you are with cutting plastic and soldering. Even on shop at this site and many others , you will see chips that solder in and chips (dpr) made to fit directly into chassis.

There was a digital only set in early 2000s with minis. At the price you paid , that might be what you have , due to the runaway problem, usually caused by chip. If so there are better choices today, even in used digital only or modern digital/analog powerbases. As for tires, try ebay for different companies (indygrips were great back in the day) and there is a guy in your country that has many types available (highly recommend).

You should put the foam on the floor first and set up on it, to get an idea of space you have to work with. Personally believe 4 is too narrow for many choices of designs - run my test track on same but basically oval with r2 after long straight , leading to shorter straight with r2 dip, into r1 curve. Everyone of the curves have to be slowed down for in different degrees and throw in 2 straight lane changers and backup separate powered digital and analog lap counters to fill the 10. You could get some plastic folding tables for deeper width , then set up and tear down, storing them where foam was going. Once you start trying different track designs, it will come faster and easier , while tearing down goes quickly and easier when flipped over on table to see connectors

Well should be easy enough to pry off base and cut track wires. Just disconnecting the wire under the track should be enough and you could then reverse it. But should you. Real answer depends on which version of arc pro you own. You should go over to slotracer.online to check missing arc manual where you can find out about different versions. The original had problems with analog and digital and best solution was the riko mod at slot forum which made it a great digital only powerbase and then you would swap in an analog base if required. So read the manual and check your arc pro version first. However 584 is equal to full straight plus 3 shorts , so you probably need it to balance out your track, so understand your reasoning to salvage it.

Just curious how you plan to access car if it goes off the track and maintain the track itself in that corner. Maybe it is just an optical illusion and is easily accessible.

contact mr flippant at slot car illustrated , slot forum, or slotracer

try googling copper tape

Probably will depend on how thick the foam is. Thin stuff will need a board backing. As for gluing down , you should try testing 1 piece and not the powerbase or changer , before you go that route. And do not forget , a permanent design is permanent , not giving you a chance to change your design or correct problems underneath including frequency of arc pro.

Kevin , you have a post that does not show up on the forum - click on your name to see it. As for the foam, since you have not apparently received your set yet, are you asking about foam over a whole table for a permanent layout or just to build runoff aprons for a less permanent one ?

So nothing added inside the cars and you have no other cars to test with ? Wheels turn ok and gears turn easy ? What happens when both cars slow down and you take 1 off ? Is the motor hot ? If BOTH cars can run separately on BOTH lanes, with powerbase switch is on left for 1 powerpack , then my guess is the powerpack is problem because something is drawing more power than 2 normal scaly cars would require. When adding or replacing , it is best to have matched pair. Scaly made these originally to put out AC and powerbase changed them to DC. The AC packs are hard to find and the last version sold was DC packs. Believe many years ago there was a problem with people switching from AC to DC because it burned out ACDC in powerbase but cannot remember now. Anyway have switched mine from AC to DC with no problem. You might check with Alan Smith at 132 slotcar.us about it since he ran scaly usa in early 2000s and beieve he does their repairs still and he might even have powerpacks still but doubt it. The DC packs may be found here or at Pendle in old world or believe bought them from Electric dreams in new world. but was a while ago.

Personally would buy the genuine powerpack. At this point you do not want anything to go wrong with the warranty of the latest updated arc pro. That said, you should shop the net because great deals can be found from used ( same powerpack as pb4 and advanced ) or new (some dealers part out sets because they are actually worth more separate than what they are sold for complete ).

And yes , if you purchased a new set, you have the best digital set that scaly currently sells. But if you want to add more changers and pitlanes and cars to race or ghost arround the track, you will need to add more controllers and adding a 2nd powerpack is almost a requirement.