gorp

would help if you post what you actually bought the arc AIR is analog only and the arc PRO is digital or analog by switch control

Instructions are in 7005 box. Basicly you are going use the chip wires to connect to guide and motor wires by soldering, while making a hole for the digital lens. Guide will need shortening and turned black or replaced for scaly digital. Be aware that carrera are usually slower than scalextric and you may need to upgrade the motor too if trying to race both brands together fairly. Otherwise race them only against other carrera or sell them on ebay. See slotforum scaly digital to see many different installations on various brands and cars.

if talking 1/32 , it is already made. See help and advice in blue at top of page, go to track selector. Personally found them just to be another way to crash instead of racing.

Very hard to believe that your digital curve lane changers have not been fixed to separate the lane power to run analog on advanced pb. The date of manufacturing ( see slotracer.online for missing arc manual ) will actually tell you in advance if the digital clc will work on arc pro digital and never on analog without fixing.

Thanks for explaining the method you are using to switch digital to analog and back again. Had considered a light bridge for analog here but found no longer needed it and humans can count in a jam.

Please describe when the aston martin grounds on your arc pro such as everywhere or over power base or changers or when going up and down a hill, and what part is grounding such as front or rear end or digital lens .

scuba Advise not selling off your pb4 and the 4-6 car lapcounter. You can always use pb4 for fast car id changer and as a separate power source for 4-6 lap counter if it is installed in track (found only 1 of 8 that would work under arc pro power, believe because of incresed power wave width of arc pro) for a day when app is not available. Use my 4-6 that way almost always with arc pro.

likely is

Nice large track, Mlleage. Do racers actually marshall while running at speed on it ? As another option to find a lap timer , get a used battery powered analog lap counter and stay in 1 lane. Practice laps times do not reflect races results but can show what changes to car have done. Better drivers with slower cars can beat faster cars with lousy drivers. Used to enjoy beating the fast analog crashers with my slower digital (chip uses a volt) toy.

What , a joke ! Which ? The spraylextric and/or any announcement of the 2021 line ? Happy New Year !!!

is this a new arc air ? sounds like a short, so pull arc air out of track and try again if it fails again, try another car curious , when you turned it around was it clockwise or counter clockwise ?

it is only on twice a week so you can read the forums during that period then it is going on covid break so you will have time to teach her how to race but be prepared when she beats you

spraylextric and is that still coming in 2021 ? Will it be shown with the 2021 line and when is that announcement ?

Rev H is the only scaly chip that has a speed/control problem on arc pro analog. Earlier chips work great on it.

Believe profmotor sells a low cost arcpro, with lane wiring stripped out, to use only as a lap counter/timer.

Sounds like wired controller , not stopping all the way, due to spring inside which sometimes works itself out through use. There used to be a way to measure this but in the end did not really matter here. And a car sometimes seems to maintain power for a very short time when placed on track which is also random.

Your original post says no chip in car. A solution is offered and then you say chip in car. Yes to 3rd posting question. Try posting at digital sub forum and READ the missing arc manual at slotracer.online.

If you have the scaly sport track, made for the last 20 years, you seek the challenger, which will beat you if set up properly and mine is not for sale. But it does require extended setup and it is actually easier to use the arc air or even the arc one. Or you can do it old school , with a rubberband around controller trigger .

So you have a 50 year old set , that is only working with 1 car and 1 controller ? Does this car/controller work when controller is switched to the other lane ? Will the other car run when you hold car braids against a 9 volt battery ?

Back in the 90s and earlier, almost all 1/43 were manufactured by the largest slot car maker in the world, artin. (They even made actual 4 lane track pieces.) They were sold under numerous brands including carrera at low prices and all were similar under the body. Then mattel brought out a different design that still worked on artin track. Prices on h o , 1/32 , and 1/24 cars started rising and 1/43 became the solution to the space requirement. So then everyone had there solution and set prices went up. Best answer to your question would be found by you searching the internet for reviews of each brand. Do know slotforum, slotcarillustrated, and slotraceronline do have subforums for them too.

Yes , this will probably get moved to the analog subforum.

Read the missing arc manual at slot racer.online. Had similar problem with app, so trashed it and reloaded and now works fine if ever need it.

Welcome back to 1/32 , WOODCOTE !!! Hope you are planning to stay. gorp

If this was true , there would be no need for separate pitlanes for the arc pro or any other powerbase. The promoted purpose of the pitlanes is to not block a racing lane while pitting. But only use them here to create a 3rd racing lane. Believe remember the pitlane game required you to stop on it to clear a pit light within a set period of time. Personally found it to be a waste of money.

If you look at the set box on shop above , set, digital and the 7 plans they show, believe you can make the one that is L shaped on its side and maybe the 2 like the set shown on front. Your problem is not the 140 , but the 210 has to be increased for the others