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Anytime would prefer sw over inline for racing. Handling is affected by guide to rear axle length, variables in stock motors, gear ratios, tires, magnets, body weight, and position of motor. Avoid front motor cars.

As for comparison between the arc pro and the advanced power base. The arc pro with 1 power pack is like an upgraded pb4 (which also could only really run 3 cars and it can also run analog using my glad system ). The advanced is like an upgraded pb6 (which was then called pbpro-sh when available from enthusiasts , for more than the advanced today ). Currently both the arc pro and the advanced are available on this site. The arc pro cost more.

the arc one is no longer listed on this site it requires compatible smart phone or tablet for lap counting it may need pair of sport to classic converters, c8222 personally prefer previous generation battery lap counting when she answers the questions we should know what scale and what track system her dad owns as for question # 2 and 3 can be replaced with does it have a round and square plastic end or 2 round ? ( see c8222 on this site )

do not use r 1 use a rubber band

NO !!! DO NOT CONNECT THEM ALL TOGETHER For 1 pack per lane, use 2 power bases, and disconnect the 2 wires from the rails on lane1 from one powerbase and then do the same with lane 2 from the other. power base. Then plug controllers into each powered up lane. Connect power packs and go race.

There are simple diagrams on line that show track wiring. There are also dealers on line that sell old parts.

If you still have the cars, depending on condition, if sold online, could pay for a modern sturdy, lower cost set for the grandkids to crash about on. Generally the more detailed cars are more fragile and expensive. If you buy such a set without selling the old cars, suggest strongly keeping them as shelf queens. If you decide to use the old cars on a track, you need to check if the axels ,motor and gears still turn and lightly oil all moving parts. Clean guide brushes and connect 9 volt battery to check wiring and motor. Tires will need replacing ( check dealers on line ) , since they have turned to stone or broken off. The plastic bodies will be very fragile.

Those pesky missing little details. 1 What scale is it, so how long is a car ? 2 How old is the set, so will know how to answer question. 3 The power base, the part that the controllers and power pack is connected to does it have any words on it ?

Commented on under controllers. Appears have to answer basicly the same question by the original poster on this subforum.

Thanks, found by typing brake mod in search forum on this page at upper right, then by content on right and click. Perhaps a my quick read is wrong, but it sounded like connectng another kind of powerbase through a modified arc one, just to use the ones app.

It is my understanding that no system, other than challenger, memorizes the track, which was the question.

Still designing the old way here. But at slotracer.online, they have numerous track plans as do other slot sites. Just looking at ads of sets will reveal quite a few designs. You probably own the classic system with round snaps as opposed to the deeper slot sport system with straight snaps of the last 20 years. That alone will require connectors to use digital powerbases and lane changers with the older track. So if it is classic, you might want to sell it off and convert to 21st century track.

Answered under similar power supply question you had.

Just guessing not enough power is available. Is there not info on the powerpack itself ? Did the commercial track run on low amps for only homeset cars with high ohm controllers withhout brakes ? You will probably have to toss the arc one, controllers and powerpack and rewire track for more amps and low ohm controllers with brakes or put the falcons back on the shelf.