gorp

Yes oil and lube it, after first opening up the car and cleaning out any dust and debris. Have bought supposedly bad cars that have hair wrapped around gears and axles and only needed a cleaning to run great again. Any used set will have cars that may have way more than enough magnets or even lead added, drawing more power. Braids need need to be clean too and possibly guide replaced. The track itself , top and bottom, needs to be cleaned and if track is on floor, it will also pick up dirt. Once all this is done , then a simple test oval created with powerbase on one side and balancing straight on opposite side and couple 180s of standard curves. Run this for awhile and see if problem returns. If ok, then add more track. If cars fail again, problem could be those old motors are shot or powerpack is going too. Only way to know is to test other cars on track. And yes this powerbase works alot better when more matching power is added.

3 + 3 + 2 = 8 halfs = 4 full straights needed to balance this pitlane on other side of track, + full straight required to use those same 2 singles in middle, so total required is 5 full straights. Beaware that the table space required also increases ( this pitlane adds about 4 1/2 feet or just over meter). Suggest buying 2 packs of full straights and 1 pack of halves (useful in adjusting track designs). Personally believe a 2nd dual straight changer is more useful purchase than pitlane for racing and only adds 1 1/2 full straights ( 1 2/3 ft or 1/2 meter added to track table footprint )

The hot pursuit X 2 sport set was marketed in first decade of this century. It follows a hot pursuit classic set in the 90s The X2 contains the best scaly analog powerbase which can use 2 powerpacks. It also contains the great battery powered lapcounter. Had to search net for awhile to find it and get some info.

The cars are stopped, so did you ever get them running again and how ?

Red light goes off , so what happens next ?

When you are ready to install a 2nd straight dual changer, you probably will have to pull the extra long straights and buy at least 1 pack of normal full straights, half straights, and quarter straights to adjust changer position and a couple packs of shorts. Reminder that each extra long straight is full straight + 3 shorts long . Each bridge straight is 3 shorts long. And 9 shorts = 2 full straights. As for your track , you will learn from your mistakes as you build , just like everyone else.

You should probably ask this on slotforum, digital, scaly, arc pro or at slotcar illustrated , scaly, digital or even just at digital. Believe mr flippant uses them and he is on both sites. Or ask slotit directly via email or at their forum at either sf or sci.

Have you tried looking at slotit's own site ? There is a lot of info there on all things slotit.

Golly, feel like walked into a conversation from slot forom ,that needed to here from beginning to make sense of it.

Where are these plans found ? If long straight = full straight + bridge st , then = full straight + 3 shorts. Believe use of the long straights are messing this digital plan up, and any change to increase center curve to rad 2 will require shorts.

Where is it loose ?

With enough magnet and motor power you can do anything but, we use to test cars for magnet strength by seeing what incline they could handle. Any car that could stick to track upside down was banned because removal from would lift the track thus causing problems with conductivity. Believe it was Lionel that brought out cars in the early 60s, that had a T underneath to pin the car on the track, so they could run around the choo choo tracks. Lionel was bought out by Neil Young a long while back so story goes for his physicly challanged children to use. At his train/rock show , saw trains with cameras inside so movement and also control was on screen there or thousands of miles away. A simple button switch for on and off was developed and slots have had histoy of similar control with battery powered sets and even revell in 60s as a optional handcontroller , which had bought to try and sold because it was junk. Would suggest if only head of bed can be raised , you build a table that could be slid over bed. If he must remain flat , perhaps top end of bed itself be raised for sight. If controls are a problem too, will need on and off switch. And if all else fails, buy a video game system that he can use in bed

With enough magnet and motor power you can do anything but, we use to test cars for magnet strength by seeing what incline they could handle. Any car that could stick to track upside down was banned because removal from would lift the track thus causing problems with conductivity. Believe it was Lionel that brought out cars in the early 60s, that had a T underneath to pin the car on the track, so they could run around the choo choo tracks. Lionel was bought out by Neil Young a long while back so story goes for his physicly challanged children to use. At his train/rock show , saw trains with cameras inside so movement and also control was on screen there or thousands of miles away. A simple button switch for on and off was developed and slots have had histoy of similar control with battery powered sets and even revell in 60s as a optional handcontroller , which had bought to try and sold because it was crap. Woud suggest if only head of bed can be raised , you build a table that could be slid over bed. If he must remain flat , perhaps top end of bed itself be raised for sight. If controls are a problem too, will need on and off switch. And if all else fails, buy a video game system that can be used in bed.

Doubt if scaly even makes that stuff separately. Best bet is buy another junker for the parts.

Since you describe spring as problem and not motor itself, suggest checking pendles and green hills or whatever it is called in old world, electric dreams and professor motor in new world. Also try hardware stores for springs. Check at slot forum. Other brands that had the spring arrangement with similar front motors are revell daytona cobra and several fly.

R2 - 45 deg , most common curve found in sets or track designs. They do make a 90 but it restricts building some designs. Borders can be black and flat or tan with a red ridge. Personally preferr black. Cost can add up and many curves do not really need them. Fencing can be used and have used h o just for slight barrier. Aprons and fencing will not prevent a fast moving car from falling on the floor. There are other track building alternatives, but based on your question, you are not yet ready for them.

Posted about experience with 4 lane digital on the topic, missing piece of track. My opinion is that it is too costly to build for most users racing only 6 cars. If you want more cars , suggest slotit oxygen system, most of which scaly sells.

Not my post or my forum. Never seen an actual arc air.

If it is too good to be true, probably is not. Your claim of dynamic braking on any arc product made me curious. Could not figure out how any wireless controller could have that feature. But not really familiar with most of app since seldom use it. Rechecked missing manual at slotracer.online and then did search at slot forum. Appears you are the only person making the dynnamic braking claim.

Sorry you do not like the lack of brakes now and that brake button on arc air. But that is the state of what life is now. Perhaps you should just hardwire the track and put better 3 wire controllers on it for true dynamic braking or even check out the more expensive wireless controllers available for their features.

superglue

So you are saying the red controller is running wrong car and the green controller is running wrong car ? Just reset the ids on both cars to color you want EXACTLY as quick start guide shows. (personally just use spare pb4 here to reset cars quickly without messing with pro) But FIRST go to slotracer.online and read the missing arc manual slowly. BTW you own the best updated arc pro version that scaly makes. However the current version, H dpr chip in the cars will make it difficult to run them as analog on arc pro. (only this version of the chip on only this power base ). You should be able to adjust for this in the analog app side of pro. H works fine on everything else , digital or analog.

How does it work for you without app on ? Does the set quick start quide offer app addvice ? Check out missing arc manual at slotracer.online for info about controls. Do know you have less available than arc pro , but ... You can just delete and reload app and just use it to count laps with original settings.

Great info that 11 volts will operate controllers. Believe again will suggest scaly offer a lower volt pack for those who wish to race the fragile speeders they sell. Does the app lap counter still work ? Yes , use booster cables but you can also use check allignment and inox the rails and and keep brushes clean (have used rr stuff before and still lightly vasoline track connectors. Tried boosters once but did discard them. Keeping track flat and covered when not using helps greatly too. Am not an electrian. Have seen plenty of ads for power supplies that show more volts equal less amps. But do not understand why.

Reality check time. If all the table space you will have is 8x4 , would suggest strongly to send the 2nd set back unopened. As it is, you will be hard pressed to use all of what is in 1 set. You may not believe this but check out diminsions given on box. Ask that local club you found on facebook. At a minimum for 2 sets , 12x6 should work for some simple designs. You can always buy 2nd power pack (highly suggested) and 1 car,controller and chip (doubt you will be able to use 6 on that size track) and 1 more straight dual changer (must pull out that space eating pitlane to use it) , for far less than 2nd set. The money saved can buy 180 deg of r1 (beiieve that is 4 packs for more interesting track) and 4 packs of shorts to start (shorter than quarters but definitely required for more interesting tracks). If you can build larger table and also keep 2nd set , than duplicate cars can be kept and painted or sold off and replaced. Problem then becomes what to do about the dpr chip they contain. You must buy replacement car first and then switch the blank hatch of new car into original car and the chip into new. Perhaps that club has spares to sell or ebay does have the blank hatch ( must be used to make car work). The newer versionn of arc pro is worth more now than most of the arc pro power bases out there. The extra pitlane can be used on other side of track to expand to 3 lanes of digital racing with required purchase of enough single lane sections to use it or by using standard track whole or cut into single pieces. Of course you will need r1s or r3s or single lane curves to make 3 lanes. The second set of controllers and the 3 cars will need their id reset (see manual - read slowly) for 6 cars racing. Yes you will definitely need the 2nd power pack and straight dual changer in 2nd set, and the purchase of shorts is still required for most track designs. While you wait, the scaly arc pro start up guide is on line here and easier to read than the white on light blue in box. Slotracer. online has the missing manual , written by woodcote , who seems to know more than most about the arc system but appears to be playing currently with the wee little cars. Anyways read it slowly, make a copy, and read it again when necessary. There is help and advice at top of page. Do not panic, ask again when unsolvable problems happen - it is fun hobby once you understand how to do it.