Jump to content

Layout wiring


slowshunter

Recommended Posts

I'm very new to rail modelling so please bear with me. I have enough track (packs A, B & C to lay 2 ovals, 1 inside the other. Using the DCC Select control I want to run 1 DCC loco and 1 DC loco ( DMU with DCC fitted and an old DC Eurostar. On the lay-out I have a set of points on each straight linking the 2 ovals. Should I use just 1 set of points? Can anybody please help me with how I should set the points so both engines can run at the same time.

Cheers,

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are going to run a DCC loco (using a DCC controller) on one oval. And you want to run a DC loco (using a DC controller) on a separate oval. Then the emphasis must be on the word 'separate'. I daresay you will get some replies saying that it is doable provided you take certain precautions and/or add electrical switches to isolate track sections.

.

But in reality, and to keep the layout 'fool proof' you should NOT have any point cross-over locations between the two ovals. The outputs of the controllers must not come into contact with one another, which they could do if you have points & track joining them. Apart from which, what would be the point of having a track cross-over between the ovals. Although you could run the DCC loco on the DC track, you risk burning out the DC loco motor if you let it cross over onto the DCC track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Additional comment.

.

To be honest, it would just be easier to fit a DCC decoder (less than £20) to the DC Eurostar and run the whole layout as a DCC one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I suspect Chris may have interpreted you incorrectly and that you wish to run both the DCC and DC loco using the Select.  If so, don’t try it, you will almost certainly burn out the motor in the DC loco, even though some instructions say it is possible to do it.  As Chris said last, you need to fit a decoder to the DC loco to make it work successfully.

 

And what to do with your points?  You can have them in as many crossovers as you want to use but you need to fit DCC point clips to all of them to have the Select control all of the layout all of the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I want to thank you chaps for your excellent device. I had no idea that running a DC loco with a DCC controller could cause problems to the DC loco and I love my Eurostar. It isnt in the "Operator's Manual" which came with my set. Having read the answers I think my best way forward is to remporarily run the 2 ovals independently and not link them with points. But I assume I could run points of each loop to run into their own sidings? And I will convert my Eurostar to DCC control.

As I said before I want to thank the people who helped me. I have had great advice in this forum and also in Amazon and also my local shop, Turner's Models in Dover who have also been so very helpful. I have been helped out by many people since trying to rebuild my set which I want to go to my grand son who is almost 3 so not yet compatible with a large train set! He would destroy it! I just hope that when he is ready to take ownership I am able to part with it! I also want it to be something which my son and grandson can enjoy together. So once again, thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't forget, that if you do convert your Eurostar to DCC (fit a DCC decoder). You can then run the whole layout as one DCC layout and have point cross-overs joining the ovals together. Also, as Fishmanoz stated. The points on the DCC part of the layout should be fitted with DCC point clips (R8232 for a pack of 20).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have an UNCONVERTED loco  and a DCC layout anywhere near it - the probability is that it will be placed on it at some time.   The motor will buzz, and whilst it drives nowhere, the buzzing motor will still warm up...

Although SOME controllers still permit a 'Loco 0' (analogue, unfitted loco) to be used, it is not recommmended for the reasons above.    Directional lighting on an unfitted- loco will be 'on' in BOTH directions and ALL THE TIME - unlike when running on variable analogue, when the full voltage is only present at maximum speed.   If these are BULBS (on some older models) they will be brighter and hotter and have a shorter life because they are always on !    Even LEDs will run hotter and brighter than intended due to the continuously present higher voltage.    

On some models - this can cause the area surrounding the lighting to melt or distort !!!   (experienced on an 'analogue, bulb lit model of a.n.other rmake)

Fitting 2 decoders to a Eurostar or PEndolin or HST  is a very cheap way of avoiding those problems.

AS WAS MENTIONED ORIGINALLY - the Analogue (dc) and Digital ( digital ac from the Master Controller eg Elite.elink Select )  MUST NEVER make contact - as would occur is a train were allowed to pass directly from  an analogue to digital circuit or vece versa.     YES - you CAN HAVE a SPECIAL CHANGE_OVER section of track, which is double-isolated at each end - BUT IT HAS TO BE LONGER THAN YOUR LONGEST TRAIN - so that the train is FULLY WITHIN the section for the changeover to be applied   (and experience all the problems described above !!)

I hope you decide it is not a good idea - prevention of prblems is agood, and economical (in the ong run) idea. Go FULLY digital - you won't regret the benfefits.    (I went digital when Zero-1 was launched  sometime last century)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One slight correction to Phil’s above - LED lights will not run hot on DCC so will not melt the surrounding plastic.  LEDs only produce a minor amount of heat, one of the reasons they draw so much less power than incandescent bulbs.  Also, for either DC or DCC, LEDs must be fitted with series resistors to operate correctly and the same resistor value will work for either DC or DCC.  Finally, while on DC, lights are driven from track voltage, on DCC they are driven by the decoder’s function outputs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LEDs used in models won't throw off much if any heat but the current limiting resistors in the circuit can, especially if these are normal type retro-fitted resistors rather than the SMD ones incorporated into a loco PCB (if it has one).

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
  • Create New...