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Make your own 'High Quality' Static Grass Applicator.


Guest Chrissaf

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This 'Luke Towan' project uses the same 'Oatley Electronics negative ion generator' I used to make my own applicator to a similar but slightly different design. I post 'Luke's' project web page link here due to the quality of the constructional information given on the web site, plus the quality of the accompanying video which is well worth a watch.

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http://www.bouldercreekrailroad.com/static-grass-applicator.html

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Brilliant genius... that's all there is to say about these things. Very well thought out and I can imagine plenty modellers on here having a pop at this one.

Thanks for the link Chris... I note since watching the video you have added a bit more re your own version.

I did think the mains part wouldn't be necessary and, like you, I would leave that out.

 

To save any research for someone who wants to try this (like me haha) can you supply details of sizes of materials used etc. in your version with the UK bits and bobs? I'm sure someone would ask if I didn't. 😉

 

A bit further on from the video I see this line...

 

"Woolworths is a supermarket located throughout Australia."

Yeah? So that's why they shut down here... a better sun-filled life in Aus... 😎

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To save any research for someone who wants to try this (like me haha) can you supply details of sizes of materials used etc. in your version with the UK bits and bobs?

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I will if enough interest is shown. In the meantime I have sent you the details privately.

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@BB

If you go back to the Luke Towan constructional web page link and scroll down the page to his parts list. He has included a clickable link to the 'Oatley Electronics web site'. You are correct, there are now some similar negative ion generators on eBay (these were not on eBay when I built mine). The 'Oatley Electronics' version is I believe more powerful at 15,000 volts and was developed by Oatley specifically for use as a static grass applicator.

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PS - The 'Oatley' one is also 12 volt, but works perfectly well at 9 volts too.

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PPS - When I bought mine from Oatley (Australia) placing the order directly on their website I was importing it to the UK. As an export, Oatley deducted the Australian purchase taxes from the selling price and due to the low price (better exchange rate 3 years ago) it didn't meet the trigger point for UK Customs import tax and VAT. In other words, the price I paid including delivery from Australia was about £16 if I recall correctly.

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@Eric

I keep shocking myself with it unless I wear clumsy rubber gloves!

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That is precisely why the design of my version differs from Luke Towan's. His version terminates the 15,000 volt positive wire onto the front mesh. In my design (which I copied from the commercial NOCH product that sells for £100 plus) the 15,000 volt positive wire terminates on a bolt behind the front mesh. You can see the bolt in the bottom right hand photo in my original post. This does not affect the operation of the unit for applying the grass, but it does keep the 15,000 volts away from one's hands and fingers.

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A bit late tonight to do it, but tomorrow I will try and post more detail on my version back in this thread since Eric & BB have requested it.

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As promised last night for BB & Eric. Here is a link to my constructional details in PDF document format.

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https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/M8bVMddwF5

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When the linked page opens. Click the PDF title in the top left to download.

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If you are reading this post at some future date and the link above doesn't work (it will probably time out eventually). Then ask here to have it re-enabled.

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  • 9 months later...

Well Chris it has taken almost two years, but I am now assembling the parts to make the Static Grass Applicator. The IONB2 now costs £21.72 (that includes postage from Aus.), but that and the link for the wire mesh all still worked. All the other bits and bobs are available from B&Q, Wickes and Toolstation (there are others). I have ordered a Lithium 9v battery on the basis it will last forever. I can't wait for all the bits to arrive.

Chris, would you mind if I posted the link on how to build this, on the Model Railway Forum?

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No....feel free.

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PS - Just checked the download link I provided on page 1 to my "Full Constructional PDF". I see it still works which is great. The only minor issue is that the PDF suggests a switch from Maplin which of course doesn't exist any more as they have gone bust. But I'm sure that the gist of the construction is still good enough for most people.

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I haven't tried soldering to Galvanised before so unsure. Steel can be done but needs plenty of flux, heat and pre-tinning. Brass washers are available (not necessarily B&Q), but available all the same. Brass easily solders.

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The Galvanised finish is just a coating, it doesn't go all the way through the metal, so it can be filed off to leave a clean shiny steel finish for soldering.

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If the DIY shops don’t have them, I think they will, Amazon has them.

 Even more so on eBay

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  • 3 weeks later...

I may have got round the steel bolt question - I mentioned it to  friend, and the next thing he says will this do? He took a six inch steel nail, that was 6mm round, cut off the point and head, cut (tapped?) a thread at one end to take the nuts and cut it to 80mm - the length suggested. The pot(s) to take the static grass arrived via Amazon - so now have to bring it all together. Watch this space.

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Question for Chrissaf - Construction has started (rather slowly), all parts, barring the switch, have been obtained as per instructions. The steel bolt - rod in my case, cut at 80mm is probably going to be to long when it comes to fitting the lid to the static grass pot - it will touch the mesh. Will it be ok to cut it a little shorter? 

What is the distance between rod end and mesh - is that important? BB

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The length of mine was to suit the larger container pot I used. The length is not critical from a physics point of view. It only needs to extend far enough into the container to ensure good contact with the static grass fibres. I would suggest as a rule of thumb about 60% of the container depth as a minimum and 90% as a maximum. The main thing is that it doesn't touch the mesh, that is the only critical parameter. And far enough away from the mesh so that you don't get an arc jumping the gap to the mesh if your negative (grounded) hand is against it.

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