rsparrow Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 OK,I am Super excited I got my "son" the Arc Pro Platinum GT (C1374T) for his birthday. We need to build a table in the garage. I have a base that should be good for a big table and will build a plywood top. I know the base track needs at least 13'1" by 5' of space, what size should I make the table to have fun with a few track designs? 14' X 6'? Or is there a magic size if I go to use some of the expanction packs I might want to get in the future?Also, what would you cover the plywood with to make it nice as we explore tracks we like. Once we figure things out we'll add the "landscape" and the rest but would like to cover the plywood with something that would be easy to build the track on top of.Thanks,R. SparrowP.S. Is there a document somewhere that shows the total size need for the 11 different track designs plus the expeaction pack designs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gorp Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 arc pro is great if you have the room get four 4x8 boards for 8 x 16 tableyou can always cut them down if you find it is too much spacebut if you plan to expand it will be greathowever you may need grabbers to reach across track(found here at hardware and drug stores)you might think of putting down cardboard to smooth it outand use no carpet on itlastly keep track clean by keeping it covered when not in use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIAT128 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 If you have kids you may want to check their reach before you put up a table wider than 4'. Anything wider than 6' needs grabbers even for adults and slows down the race when cars de-slot. Otherwise gorp's suggestion is great because there's a lot of room for expanding. I'm content with 4'x12'or16'.If you got room for an L shape think about it. Makes for some alternative designs. For covering the tables I used fabric from Jo-Ann's Fabrics (usa). These types of stores sell by the yard and with coupons the fabric can be very cheap. The mentioned store has coupons for 50% off online, very frequently. Visit a store to see what feels right for you. Fabric folds easily over the table and you can get it nice and taught using a staple gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy P. Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 wireless controllers make things a LOT easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blagard-01 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Initially I would suggest you play around with layouts so you can get an idea of what appeals to you. There are some "set" layouts that are worth looking at even if only to tweak. e.g. http://www.jadlamracingmodels.com/scalextric/sets-layouts For instance the SL5 layout is in my opinion better if you reverse the overlapping loops at one end so that the crossroads is replaced with a bridge and the raised section now flat In addition be aware of one or two very useful bits of trackC8200 are quarter straights at 87mmC8236 is a short straight at 78mmUsing the above two oppersite each other can align many freestyle layouts to get the track to meet as used in parallel it moves one track section 9mm along more than the other. The half straight C8207 used with either can also help a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Gurney Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Is there any recommendation for a minimum distance from the track to the edge of the table? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy P. Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 If you use guardrails, nope.Some use Ninco's fencing if you go over the edge of the table to prevent any sky diving.In most cases though regular guardrails are enough... and a pillow under the table in case they don't work. :-)I plan on gluing some Carrera Go! fencing to standard guardrails as a cheaper, longer alternative but have not got round to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelpieboy Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 I decided to go cheap on the guardrails and runoffs so I am making my own from balsa , flynetting and skewers. The runoffs will be painted witth a little fine sand added to the mix for grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy P. Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 The cheapest easiest I have seen is 3-5mm foam rubber cut in strips and glued to the edge of the track, occasionally reinforced with toothpicks.If you use hot glue you can use alcohol to get it back off more ore less residue free... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelpieboy Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 Not a bad idea Andy P , cheers. I am still using the balsa for straight sections but the foam rubber is great around corners , especially R1 hairpins or so I am finding. Much easier to curve the foam rubber than too carve out balsa.I think I will be selling all my store bought run offs and guardrails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babino Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 It may be too late, but I bought the same kit and used the instructions at the link below to build two 4' x 8' tables in an L-shape and covered the plywood tops with homosote (soundboard) by gluing it on to prevent vibrations from transferring through the table.I built the two tables into an L shape and bought extra track and track border to maximize space, and also to make it so my son (age 6) could reach the cars from any part of the track. Your mileage may vary but it works for us... I went through a dozen or so minor iterations of track design to arrive at the version you can see from the attached picture. Good luck!https://www.hoslotcarracing.com/Construction.html/media/tinymce_upload/e6fc7c31e7ebb5c53c06e2fcaff648b8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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