Tonto.ie Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 Can you help me?I have this Class 31 PCB and I want to add lights to this PCB (will be DCC)I have to motor sorted but don't know what the rest of the contacts do (see photo, contacts ABCD & 1234)Which is the common + (Blue)?Thanks in advanceTony /media/tinymce_upload/1fb1781a4f292baedad5b8101318d33d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 Posted on RMweb a while ago..........HB1 & D = red tail light2 & C = Blue common3,4 & A,B = headlight & marker lightHope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonto.ie Posted November 16, 2018 Author Share Posted November 16, 2018 Yes :-)Thank you VERY much. I can get cracking with the wiring.FYI: It's a Hornby Class 86 with a Bachmann motor and gearbox from a Class 25... bit of a mashup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Would suggest you check the voltage output of the lighting contacts in case you need to fit resistors in circuit to protect the leds.........HB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D M HOUGHTON Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Hi allThe model locohave has recently undergone a chassis swap and I didn't make notes or photograph the wiring arrangement from the lighting modules to the PCB. The model I have is 31270 with an illuminated headcode box. The bulb module has two wires- 1 x red; 1 x black.The tail light module is located under the cab floor/left hand driver seat and has 2 contacts side by side, each with a black wire.Can anyone explain and show which lighting wires connect where on this PCB pease?I have uploaded some photos of the lighting modules and PCB.I know where the track pick up and motor wires go. It's just the lighting I need to sort out.Thanks in advance. /media/tinymce_upload/68254ce88b4df6b39d94898ac4ca6491.jpgI /media/tinymce_upload/d6c5f0a0b81f6187a36a5500099068a8.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/02d067fafa797b75d87ef55eba47c5ec.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 The previous answer in this very thread you have posted to has provided the information you want ... see the green boxes. /media/tinymce_upload/2afb3367d7a40855a429360568a2121e.jpg TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button. Particularly as my reply includes an image, using the 'Blue Button' may result in your reply being held back for image approval, even though it is an existing image. See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum. TIPs include 'How to post images' and 'How to make links clickable'.https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 You also need some keepers to hold those wires to the tags, else there will be little or poor contact. Same type as fitted to the middle tags at each end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D M HOUGHTON Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 @ChrissafThanks for your response and your TIP on replying to posts. "The previous answer in this very thread you have posted to has provided the information you want ... see the green boxes."Unfortunately, the previous answer in the very thread I posted to has not provided the information I want (to my simplistic understanding) otherwise I would not have replied to this thread (incorrectly) with my previous post. None of the wiring on my model is blue and I don't understand the difference(s) between headlight and marker light connections to the PCB in relation to my actual model. Also, the OP wanted to add lights... my model has lights fitted and I just need to know how the specific wires from the lighting modules connect to the PCB. The information in the green boxes does not tell me that. If you know where each of the 4 specific wires (from both lighting modules) connect to specific tags on the PCB, I would appreciate you telling/showing me, as that would be really helpful and certainly more in line with my expectations of this forum and its members.Also, I do not understand your comment "Particularly as my reply includes an image, using the 'Blue Button' may result in your reply being held back for image approval, even though it is an existing image. The images I uploaded of the PCB were not existing images but were my own and I fully expected them to be "moderated".Perhaps another useful TIP you could give me as a "NEWBIE" to the forum would be an explanation of what the blue button with the white arrow is used for? @RAF96Thank you for your response. I have the plastic wire joiners (or keepers as you call them) to ensure good connection between the wires and tags, once I know where the 4 wires go... much obliged to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 I will take the lid off my Class 31 tomorrow for a closer look and take some pictures, but my pcb is R3 (revision 3) and my chassis has the more usual 3 contact strips in the cab floor area, whereas yours only has 2.See this poor photo of mine, which is no help with the wiring yet as it was taken to show the speakers in place of the fan unit.The yellow light is I think used for the head-code illumination, rather than a cab light. /media/tinymce_upload/73f91a965187febb70c8b4a3f2422fad.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 The only known use for the blue button with white arrow is to create confusion about how to reply amongst new users before they read Chris's tips. Just act like it's not there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D M HOUGHTON Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 @RAF96Thanks again for your last post. The yellow light does illuminate the headcode box. I really appreciate you dismantling your 31 to look at the wiring on my behalf and await your findings with interest. @FishmanozYour comment makes me feel somewhat better about pressing the "Blue Button with the White Arrow" now that I know I haven't vapourised a thriving metropolis somewhere or unleashed some form of Zombie apocalyse upon the World... Best wishes to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMSFan72 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 That boards looks very similar indeed to the one I traced in one of my Class 50s. I would wager that the contacts wire the same way. See the trace fo the circuit oin my diagram in this post: https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/class-50-dcc-connector/?p=1/#post-350759Be aware of the way I had to label the connectors - the pins do have a number on that relate tot the legend, don't take the order of the legend as the order of the connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 This is R2573 Minotaur 31452. The only difference I can see twixt mine and yours is the number of contacts on the chassis that transfer power to/from the body mounted lights. The service sheet for Class 31 sound only has two chassis contacts, so where the power in comes from I don’t know. Usually the single contact is connected via the pcb and socket to the decoder blue wire. You should check the continuity from your contacts to the socket pins, which may be polarity sensitive due to diodes on the main pcb. Make of this what you can...This is the fan end but mine as you can see now has speakers instead.Board PN may be a Y or a badly printed X. /media/tinymce_upload/bdf9dcaa5953295747b9ad5d9195d4d3.JPG The other end... /media/tinymce_upload/a88391179756f4fe9bae7e06ce31e3a0.JPG Wire trace using multimeter...PCB routing from end tags to socket pins not shown for clarity, but easily checked. /media/tinymce_upload/8bdf0c44139fa670d223852e7a3a5e84.JPG Details as pictured...Top light LED... /media/tinymce_upload/b822f0446114d030860a74772f521fbb.JPG Chassis spring contacts... /media/tinymce_upload/336b801c7ce8b59f90143b7fd0095faa.JPG Body matching contacts...Note if checking leds in the body to use low voltage and an extra resistor as some lighting boards have built in resistors and some are on the main pcb. /media/tinymce_upload/c3ec44f61a027f72515d3c2acbf3d759.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D M HOUGHTON Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 @RAF96Thanks for all your help, including the photos and the PCB diagram, which showed me the wiring sequence I needed. The wiring has now been sorted and the 31 has been tested and is back together again. @LMSFan72Thanks for your contribution re the Class 50 PCB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sultan Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 @D M HoughtonIf you remove the fan drive belt you will improve the running qualities too 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 I took my fan unit out completely, removed the fan blade and glued it to the roof, to make room for the speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D M HOUGHTON Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 @Sultan Fan drive belt got the snip when I rewired, as I needed to remove the fan/housing module to rewire and clean off the soft almost runny black tack holding the wires in position in the chassis grooves. Luckily, I found some different black tack I bought a good while back. 😀 @RAF96 Good idea! I might copy that for my second BR Blue FYE Class 56 when I get around to fitting a sound decoder/speaker. What glue did you use of of interest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 From memory I think it was a tiny dab of UHU around the edges of a few blades, as it has body and dries clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D M HOUGHTON Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 @RAF96Will try a dab of UHU. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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