LMSFan72

2mm tower LEDs and drill out the high intensity light to fit them. Straightforward I’d think

@ColinB I totally agree that if you want all functions to work you need the right decoder. The only decoders that will do that are the ESU v5 - either Lokpilot or Loksound. However it’s not simply the case of the functions being logic level - actually the same pins on the ESU that the HM7000 has functions on operate the same way - pin 4 (AUX4) and pin 13 (AUX3) are logic level on both. That logic v full output on 6 function decoders is the issue we commonly come across on 21-pin decoders. This one is different: The Accurascale 37 requires 15 functions for everything to operate as designed. The 21-pin socket doesn’t have enough pins for 15 functions. It uses the 2 SUSI pins on the decoder (pins 5 and 6 I think) to “talk” to the circuits built into the loco PCB that has those functions built on it. Only an ESU chip can talk to the board that way. A Zimo cannot. That is why Accurascale specifically have the dip switch settings designated for “ESU” and for “non-ESU”. You’ll notice that the language never refers to NMRA standard or the number of functions. I originally thought that was just their terminology and somewhat “woolly” but it is actually very precise!

Coming back to the issue here. The Accurascale 37 is fitted with a PCB designed in conjunction with ESU. I believe it uses the SUSI pins on the decoder to talk to the PCB to use additional functions. It’s not really anything to do with the 2-logic functions in the HM7000 which would also be logic on the Loksound v5. It’s simply that the 37 is specifically designed for an ESU decoder.

Coming back to the issue here. The Accurascale 37 is fitted with a PCB designed in conjunction with ESU. I believe it uses the SUSI pins on the decoder to talk to the PCB to use additional functions. It’s not really anything to do with the 2-logic functions in the HM7000 which would also be logic on the Loksound v5. It’s simply that the 37 is specifically designed for an ESU decoder.

Looks like an ESU Loksound V4 to me

The HM7000 has only the 6 functions. I believe these are on the “standard” pins for a 21-MTC decoder. Accurascale have connected only the marker lights, tail lights and instrument panel lights to the first 6 functions. Now, they use the dip switches under the decoder to then make or break connections to other light connections for non-ESU decoders (ESU have 14 outputs which can control each light separately) but clearly they will not be able to operate everything. I have asked Accurascale if they can publish the detail of what each switch does but I would suggest that the engine room lights would be one of the least used so I suspect that is definitely one you’ll never be able to operate. I’ll update when I get any more detail.

I suspect it’s the difference in available functions. I’ll try and find some time to compare the pin functions to what Accurascale used. Have you tried the different dip switch settings too - I haven’t looked at those for non-ESU sound decoders but I’ll give that a go too…

I had a similar issue with the A4 on a Next18. It all looked like it loaded but then had the error. Loaded other profiles and they worked but not that one. I found that when I re-updated the firmware (even though it said it was up to date) and then tried again it then loaded it. Strange

Agreed, it's definitely a peculiarity to the MXULFA. Using a DCC EX++ on JMRI I have no issues reading CVs and running the chip. The only thing missing is a profile for these decoders in JMRI!

Agreed, it's definitely a peculiarity to the MXULFA. Using a DCC EX++ on JMRI I have no issues reading CVs and running the chip. The only thing missing is a profile for these decoders in JMRI!

Well, I got the Next18 version delivered yesterday. I put it into the socket on my decoder tester and tried to drive it (with my Zimo MXULFA). The Zimo firstly tries to identify the address and decoder so reads CVs before it will enter drive mode...but all it did was pulse the motor and fail to read anything...hmmm! Might have to try it with another programmer and JMRI!

With the zimo decoder you have a high end very flexible decoder. The sound project loaded is likely to have many customised features which may or may not be in your documentation. Depending how you got it you may start with the seller to help you. Now, it’s very easy to get confused between function keys and function outputs. The function outputs are the physical connections on the decoder. The function keys are what you map the outputs to in order to control them on your command station. Sometimes outputs are referred to as FO or as AUX. For example FO2 may be referred to as AUX2 in documentation and vice versa. F2 is your command station key. With a zimo you can completely map any output to any key so, for example, F5 might control FO2/AUX2. This is set up with CV values. Zimo also has even more sophisticated mapping called “Swiss mapping”. This means you can have other parameters control function outputs differently - for example a combination of command station keys and direction may control a function output differently. I would suggest you get a copy of the full zimo small decoder manual and look at the sections on functions, lighting and Swiss mapping.

Well, mine seems to exhibit all the same problems: wheels scraping, twisted track and upside down whistle. Haven't run the loco yet... I'll be seeing what Hornby say!

No, but the connections for it are behind the bulkhead (think cab light). The back of the bulkhead is pretty open so if the wires coil round they poke through - which is what I think is happening.

I think the wires will be pushing through the back of the cab just as a consequence of how the body has been put on. As far as I am aware there are no wire connections actually inside the cab, so, it's simply them finding their own space. Should be a removal of the body, check the wires are pulled back behiind the bulkhead and put it back on.

I believe from memory it’s F6 (might be F5, definitely one of them - the other is day/night headlight toggle). I haven’t run in DC, but the speed is set by the blue screw adjuster. My fans were over greased so struggled to turn. I cleaned them off and lubed with light oil and now they spin beautifully.

Another option is to enable DC running on the decoder. Then you don’t need to install or remove anything. You could have it enables all the time or just change the value when you need. It’s done by changing the value of CV29 - either add 4 if not enabled) or remove 4 (if enabled) to switch it

I can access it - just tried now for the first time. When I got to the read more link I hit the login, ended up on my account page, and then went back to the blog. Clicked on the Train Terminal again and this time when I hit read more I could read more.

Prototypically they run as 5 car 800/2 or 9 car 800/1. A 10-car set that also runs prototypically is 2 x 5 car sets back to back. So, in reality if you want a 10 car set you can buy any 2 and run them together - although you’d renumber one set of them if you really wanted to get the detail right!

It's interesting that at last look there are 33 listed on eBay. Almost 1.3% of the edition. Clearly a case of first mover advantage for the one that sold for 950 - there were none to few others listed then. Now we can see the market forces driving the price down as supply takes over - with people encouraged to sell them because of the high price point.... I'd suggest it's going to be an up-down cycle like that for a few weeks/months....

Also worth recognising that the 73/9 models from Hornby are just livery/numbers on the earlier 73 classes and do not reflect the lighting or grill configurations of the later sub-class; I don’t believe any manufacturer has tooled the later variant yet…So, if you’re trying to replicate a prototype find one that is an earlier class or be prepared to do major surgery!

It’s my recollection (I have completely rewired mine) that the day/night switch does indeed switch between LH and RH headlights. However, it does it for both DC and DCC. The DCC function only controls the lights being Ona be the switch determines which one illuminates. That is why I completely required mine for DCC operation. There is an old post on here that went through the circuit to do that!

Some of the early boards had the light negative connected to the common positive pin on the socket, instantly creating some magic smoke. I traced that board in a different thread. If yours is working on DCC then you’re good!

Hi TVR The image is there now. I also checked and had a board on a bare chassis (no lighting attached). I put a decoder on it and it works no problem. I don't think you'll have any issues with this board.

I just posted a picture of the trace I did of that board but I did it off my phone. It might not come out well once approved but we’ll see. Looking at it it doesn’t have the problem that the R6 version had (where the positive pin on the decoder was connected to the -ve on the light circuit). Is that the problem you are meaning?