LMSFan72

That’s it. I’ll check what I have tomorrow!

Do you have the revision number/markings on the board? I might have a spare I can check.

Can u post a picture? Sounds like a height difference. The vitrains coupling can slide up and down a bit in it’s socket so you might be able to get some adjustment

I traced boards on the Class 50s a while ago, see the attached topic, although the images now appear to be missing: https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/class-50-circuit-board-traced-diagram-attached-but-how-does-it-work#post-251714 Here's one of the 8-pin versions: Note that the light boards on the 8-pin board are common negative so the re-wiring is not just confined to the main board - I tend to desolder the LEDs and turn then around and re-use the boards with additional wires added. I don't think I ever traced a 21-pin....

I will add, though, that Zimo support is excellent. They do take a few days but I would suggest they will have more experience with Fleishmann than most UK distributors. I find sending them a video of the issue is very effective for them to see the problem.

I suspect it’s a combination of the decoder and the controller. I’ve been running an MS450R for a while and I have no problems (I bought mine overseas where they have been available for some time). I did update the firmware to the latest version first and then installed the Youchoos sound file as I do have that ability. If you are running a Youchoos sourced chip that will be the latest firmware version as the sound files need those features. I run both MERG command stations and DCC++ EX for controllers and I have no issues

If you are trying to sell then why not just auction them on eBay - you'll get what the current market worth is. List them for a longer time and maximum your description to attract the widest audience. Trying to fix a price if you really don't know probably means it won't sell as fast or you may sell under the market....... Your alternative is to contact one of the dealers that buy second hand. It's guaranteed you won't get as much, but, you will realise monies for the whole lot more quickly. BTW The Old Smoky set RRP was £89.99, dating from 2007 I think...

Is it converted with a socket or hard-wired? If a socket I would remove the decoder, fit a blank, and try a 9V battery on the wheels to see if the motor will turn on DC. Also, have you tried resetting the decoder?

The discount code is valuable on 2022 pre-orders. I believe retailers are restricted to 10% discount on those so anything more than that is a bonus. The advantage of course is that Hornby are unlikely to oversell their supply.... As others have said the discount code does not work additively with the club discount, it is a maximum. So, if you make an order as a club member you get the 10%. Your next order, if you have qualified for, say, 15%, then gets 15% off when you add the discount code (not 25% off).

When new this loco was supplied DCC ready (at least the version I have was) - that is it was set up for DC by having a blanking plug inserted in the 8-pin socket. If it has had an 8-pin decoder fitted into the socket in the loco then it would just need to be removed and replaced with a blanking plug - an Hornby X6236 for example. If, however, it was not a DCC ready version, or, the socket has been removed then you will need to join some wires.... However, without pictures I wouldn't give hard advice since the DCC ready version has a small circuitboard that looks after the lighting too and we would need to take account of that. The service sheet for the version of the loco I have is: https://support.hornby.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360016367940-HSS-382C-Class-92

I use Sketchup to design models and create the stl files. I too was intrigued so looked up the tower. I would suggest that the main part of the tower could be made in card and then just the more ornate “spire” structure might be 3D printed. Small consumer printers will typically print a section about 170mm if done in resin which I would think to be best suited for it.

Been working out how to create Network Rail ex-FGW Motorail GUV conversion. Gave up on donors and decided to completely design and print. Waiting for the yellow to dry so I can do the roof and decals

I had an old 50035 Ark Royal in my "to fix" drawer. It has the PCB with the fault where the common +ve from the decoder is connected to the common -ve from the on-board voltage regulator so would blow the decoder. I saw that 50008 Thunderer has just been repainted and thought I'd give it a go.... A different approach to my GBRF ones that I did because, since the main colour is a darkish grey, I didn't strip the loco, I just removed the old numbers and large logo and then primed and painted. Saves on risking ruining the movable grills and the doors. I used a rattle can of the right colour RAL 7043 (the Rail Adventure website has the colours for hobbyists to use!) that was off of eBay and masked appropriately. It came out pretty well... just waiting on the nameplates to become available... I then set about DCC sound. I had a TTS class 50 decoder available. However, I wanted to have independently switched lights at each end. So, I set about modifying the PCB: I cut the trace from the NEM socket for the blue wire to so it is "dead" on the board. It doesn't need that positive as the on-board regulator supplies the positive voltage to the loco circuitI then removed the resistors for the end 2 lights from the PCB. This way the TTS only operates end 1.I used a function only decoder to switch end 2.However, the lights boards in the cabs are common negative. I needed them common positive for end 2. So, I simple removed them, de-soldered the LEDs and reversed them and soldered them back.That then made the decoder connections simple. I re-used the PCB contacts for end 2, inserting 2K1 resistors in the negative leads and connected it all back upI only used the green and purple wires, setting them directional and moving their function to F9. That way I can set the address the same as the TTS and the end 2 lights are switched on when the cold start over-ride is on.I did replace the speaker on the TTS chip, too.Pretty happy with the results:

Looking good BB, nice detail touches.

... the answer is “probably”. The problem is that TTS decoders cannot be adjusted to synchronise the sound. Hornby will have set the decoder for a certain motor/gear/wheel combination. They are likely to be the same for both rebuilt and unrebuilt but I cannot say for certain. Note that even different locos of the same model may have slightly different running characteristics. It may also be that they are not exactly in beat anyway. So, I would think that if a TTS decoder is acceptable to you, given their limitation, then I don’t think you’d be unhappy using either in the loco.

Well, keeping it simple - the model you have purchased is a rebuilt version of the loco. I don't know how different they sounded, the main modification that might affect it being the valve gear being changed. However, I suspect that to the layman they won't sound much different at all. I cannot answer how different the decoders sound!

I have used IKEA Linnmon table tops. They are rigid, light, and cheap. The 100x60cm ones are about £5 each. You can dowel them together if you are careful. You may need to be creative to mount point motors underneath (core out the board to recess them under the top surface). You will need to pre-drill for track pins - or just glue or double sided tape the track in position instead.

This has just moved off the workbench - I finally finished my New Measurement Train. I started it about 2 years ago and then it was put aside because I couldn't decide how much detail to model. However, since I now can print 3D parts, I decided to finish it off to current livery...(now just need to convert a VTEC HST to 43299 ...): It started life as the previous generation NMT power car set. It was re-liveried to the current prototype livery. The nose mounted camera was replaced with the correct smaller version and the top light was fitted (sourced through shape-ways before I could print parts myself). The power cars are both fitted with sound. All the coaches, except for the last one with the grey roof, are custom made with the correct window layouts and roof layouts. Most of the add-ons were modelled and 3D printed by me. The coach with the grey roof at the end of the formation is from Hornby's current range and is largely accurate. The production vehicle has been heavily modified to get fitted with the pantograph well which is now equipped with electronic OHLE test equipment including working blue/purple light. The coach is fitted with 18 LEDs to model: - the OHLE test equipment light - the 4 roof mounted spotlights - 2 track level detector lights - a lit interior - modelled with desk, monitors and crew - simulated operating computer banks with flashing LEDs. The green ones are somewhat masked by the tinted glazing though Nice to see a long project through!!

Having spent the last few weeks building up coach rakes I managed to get some running in today. All the trains - both locos and coaches - have all been re-liveried or re-numbered or worse! There is a link to a very poorly shot compilation video. The layout is in dire need of some scenery but I've been wanting to check the track first with long rakes at speed.... British India Line and 13-coaches from the West Coast Rail stableAndania with crimson and cream Saphos stock with 1733 on the rearGBRF 50s Defiance and Hercules with a rake of 11 blue and greysWCR 47237 with a rake of 11 WCR coaches

Hi Al, yes, I’m working on the various support coaches as well as rakes for West Coast Railways, Saphos, my Blue&Grey and some of the Mk2 Pullmans I plan on steam with Tornado, British India Line, Duke of Gloucester, Flying Scotsman, Britannia and Duchess of Sutherland (Bittern and Union of South Africa may get to use the West Coast rake too). I have my diesel tours too: Andania, Alycidon, Galloway Princess, Crewe Diesel Depot, Craftsman, various WCR 47s, my GBRF 50s, ... the list keeps growing

I've been busy re-creating rakes of coaches. I'm particularly pleased with my Saphos Trains MK2s in Crimson and Cream. The MK2D BFK was a bit of a challenge. I noted Hornby have released this vehicle in the 2021 range but it appears to be a re-liveried MK2 BSO which has different window and door spacings. The photo shows it against a MK2F BSO (part of the rake I have been doing for Alycidon and my GBRF 50s). This started life as 2 coaches (and a bit of a third!). I took one end of a MK2D BSO and the other end of a MK2D FO. The chassis is from the FO with the underbody fan replaced with one from a MK2F! (That's the bit of the third coach!) I then had to move the brake end windows and doors aorund to get the required spacing. I also 3D printed some bogie steps, some underbody steps. I couldn't quite get the sharp lines between the crimson and cream that I wanted but they're ok. I am going to try and put the coach lining lines on that actually border the 2 in real life when I get the decals on.... I also have done the MK2F TSO, FO and the RFO to match. The RFO was an FO that I 3D printed some window blanks for. The livery is perhaps slightly dark, but it is ambient light dependent, but it was done to match the RTR MK1 stock that also makes up the rake. I cannot get all the decals yet, but, I'm working on it!

Definitely correct. I have modified mine so that I can switch day/night with a function and also turn headlights off completely for yard mode operations.

That's right RAF, it is common -ve. There are 3 positive and 1 negative light connectors at each end of the board. My suspicion is that there is a short between some of the positive terminals - loose wire perhaps - or as I think you mentioned earlier in the thread a possible modification... On the light boards - at each end - there are 4 wires. These are in JST style plug connectors; 3 are positives - of which one feeds the sprung copper contact for the headcode lights - and 1 is the negative. There could also be a short between some of the positives at that end. Now, thinking as I write. It should be possible to disconnect the jst plugs to see what happens. From recollection the right hand plug facing the direction of travel is the positives for the white lights with the left hand plug the red positive and the common negative. Unplugging the RH one should mean the white lights cannot be lit....... That should rule out a bridge at the light boards between the white and red lamp positives... The other thing I would do is disconnect the board end of the positives in turn and see if all the lights stay on or off with a change to just one wire in that scenario.....

@Fishmanoz The trace of the circuit of the PCB in question is already provided by me in the link to an earlier post. You cannot easily trace the blue wire in situ because of the complexity of the circuit, but,the diagram I refer to is a full and accurate trace with the compoent values: it shows how the circuit works. That diagram is what I keep trying to refer back to and the connections to the PCB are marked to help diagnosis. It's here again in case it gets lost in amongst the posts: https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/class-50-dcc-connector/?p=1/#post-350759 @james_harper As I posted earlier it is most likely, from looking at the circuit and the symptons that the positive light connections are the issue. Without photos of the actual installation it's really tough to be any more help.