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Class 37 TTS


pd91223

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@howbiman

I totally agree and since taking and publishing that picture, I have done exactly that with a small thin piece of clear plastic, as often found in packaging.  If you look carefully at my first image, I had already previously used a piece under the TTS Decoder.

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Also by judicious moving aside of wires more space can be gleaned than first thought possible. There is a nice shelf there in one of the pictures to mount a speaker facing up If the wires are moved to the sides. Folk have also mounted the speaker into the body roof facing down at the opposite end to the fans. Plenty of scope for a bit of adaptive engineering.

 

I would advise anyone ‘afraid’ of soldering to have a go. It is an easy skill to learn the basics of and one can improve from there as confidence grows. Don’t try learning on your best decoder or loco, just join a couple of wires together, or solder a wire to an old pcb or bit of rail. Remember as Chris has said cleanliness is essential, plus decent solder and the right iron for the job. Once you have seen the ‘magic’ of a solder joint flow into place you have the skill.

Rob

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A quick response to some of the above, before I go off to see what damage I've done.

 

  1. The decoder was working fine before I put the body back on.
  2. I don't think the speaker is the problem. It can't go on the "shelf" or "well" because of the "shaft" that comes down from the roof into which one of the screws fits around the fuel tank, but it will fit on top of the shelf/well surround further forward.
  3. The issue is the decoder (I believe) which can only fit then (without re-engineering the connections of decoder & speaker) on top of the main board of the loco just in front of the 21-to-8 pin adapter. I'll try to post a picture later, but you'll obviously have to wait until Monday for it to be approved.
  4. I did put sellotape over the main board and sellotape around the decoder but, of course, it's possible that the pressure of squeezing to fit the body has forced the pins on the underside of the decoder through 2 layers of sellotape and shorted on the main board - to be investigated.

Oh well, can't put off the evil moment any longer .........

Paul

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One way of gaining maximum space is to ditch the loco pcb and hard wire up from basics or to an 8-pin socket, which obviously knocks the B’mann warranty into a cocked hat, but I am not one to invoke warranty after initial tests have proven the loco is essentially a good’n as after then I will have wired in all my other bits and pieces, reworked paint, numbering, etc.

Rob

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Just a quick update, more testing to do. However, the loco & the TTS decoder are still alive, not fried!

 

I've been re-testing with the body off and noticed that at low speeds, with the TTS decoder fitted, the loco jerks/judders. This effect disappears as the speed builds up. I removed the TTS decoder and put back the Dapol Imperium-1 21-pin decoder I'd had in this loco previously and there was no sign at all of any jerk/judder with/without the body.

 

The jerk/judder could account for the flickering I saw when the body was on with the TTS decoder fitted. If so, is this a sign of something shorting out, a fault with the TTS decoder or something that can be fixed by changing the acceleration/deceleration CV values of the TTS decoder?

 

No further testing planned for today [off to watch the rugby 😉]

Paul

 

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Thanks all. Latest update:

 

  1. CV150 = 1; loco now runs really smoothly, no jerk/judder
  2. Slightly moved the position of the decoder on top of the loco's main board; only very small pressure/squeezing was needed to fully re-fit the body - I'll post pictures tomorrow
  3. Lights & sounds now work properly - no flickering or cut-out

Phew! But, a warning to others, it's very, very tight and you need to be careful to position all the wires so as not to block the screw holes around the fuel tank. The placement of the decoder has to be very exact to miss the fan assembly fitted to the roof and not overlap the 21-to-8 pin adapter board; the speaker has to be as far forward as possible to avoid blocking the screw hole by the fuel tank

 

Hopefully, vibration/running won't effect the 2 boards on top of each other, because they're just insulated from each other by sellotape. 😀

Paul

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