Cock of the North Class P2

[Slingerwoods]

Having been given a P2 as a present I find it won't go round a standard radius rail or in fact negoitate a standard point due its long wheel base. Has anyone found a work around for this problem. Me I am thinking put a flangeless wheel on the rear allowing the train to pivot on three wheels. Not sure where to get a set or in fact if it will work. All constructive comments welcome and no Iam not going to rip up my existing set to fit all class two curves. 

[WilliamDavid]

I have no trouble with mine on R2 curves or the small points.

It is designed to work with thos, so there must be some issue with your loco.

What is happening to yours? 

Derailing, stopping?

[96RAF]

By standard curve I take it you mean Radius 1 and by class 2 curves you mean Radius 2.

The loco is designed to go round minimum Radius 2 - it says so on the box - so it is not surprising if it baulks at Radius 1 track.

[jane1707819582]

from memory the p2 came with a set of flangless wheels for the rear of the loco ,is yours flanged ?

if your track is not dead flat the loco rear set will be catching in the points and on the curves,take out the small wheels under the cab to see if the movement improves

[Go_West]

Can check fluff or hair on the axles and that the gauge of the wheels has not moved and is correct

[atom3624]

My 2001 has no problems on P3, P4.

P2 is said to be the limit, but will wear the chassis a little more on sharper corners.

 

As mentioned, look for fluff.

When gently turned upside down - take care not to damage any detail parts - see if it's relatively easy to slide the axles side-to-side - might be a little tight in the bushings - a little drop of 'light machine oil' will help - don't over-oil.

 

Al.

[jane1707819582]

from memory the p2 came with a set of flangless wheels for the rear of the loco ,is yours flanged ?

if your track is not dead flat the loco rear set will be catching in the points and on the curves,take out the small wheels under the cab to see if the movement improves

Yes all 8 driving wheels are flanged

 

 

what are the ones underneath the cab ,these are the ones which can catch the track on the curves,points ?

[JWRStation]

Just to reinvigorate this post.  I have a Brand New P2 which seems to derail without any provocation on points However, it is erratic and not every time.  The points can be Hornby type standard, which can be a little problamtic for some but also, and especially, new Piko curved points...  I have checked it over and the gauges are correct with full side to side movement.  I have removed the rear wheels with no improvement and even the tender hops off points as well.  One thing I have noted is the the flange depth is very fine and any slight rocking of the loco lifts the front wheel flanges above the rails....

Might have to just be a shelf display "Queen"  !!!!!

[atom3624]

Are the points flat?

 

Some add an extra pin near the middle to ensure they don't change shape slightly.

 

Just looking at my earlier posts - obviously referring to the P2 and radius, thus R3 and R4 ... !!

 

Al.

[Ruffnut Thorston]

Possibly, the Piko points are of a sharper radius than the Hornby "Standard" points, which have the diverging line at Radius 2?

[Friendly Fryer]

I have just got a P2 3246TTS and my Peco75 points are all fine with all other locos except this one.  To my eye is seem there's not enough weight over the front bogey and no self centering action so the bogy just seems to float.  for my track work the minum radious is 784mm dictated by the inside radious on peco 75 curved points, although this problem happend when traversing a double slip set to left route to left route a syou approach it and the fron bogey got hoplessly stuck. I have A4 silver fox ,  P1 Tornado, 9f evening star and MN Channel Packet goign over this flawlessly.  

My questin is has nayone got any handy tips for fixing it as I love the thing despite it's appalling low speed control 

[ColinB]

There is another post on a subject like this. My one was always derailing itself with the front bogie falling off. I read a post on this forum that suggested adding a bit of weight to the front bogie, which is exactly what I did. I added a thin sliver of phosphor bronze I bought at an autojumble (my other hobby is building classic bikes). Needless to say it cured the issue. If you watch the front bogie as it goes along it is so light that it gets into oscillations and eventually pings itself off the rails. The Railroad A1s suffer from the same fault, in their case you add a better spring to the front bogie.

[JJ73]

If you want to make the Curvse less 'Curvey' - you could always add a 'straight' inbetween the curves...(like so)

 

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