Oldmanbodypop Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 I wanted a cheap DCC compatible locomotive so I bought the R3584 which I have read is DCC compatible.I’ve been trying to find the instructions on how to fit DCC but I’ve has no luck. Has any one else encountered this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 The R3584 is shown as "DCC Compatible but without a DCC socket"../media/tinymce_upload/1a5f9158b8ec1bc9d99c60475589af8a.jpg.This means that to convert this to DCC means either fitting a DCC socket to the loco yourself. Or following the more extreme path of cutting the plug off a DCC decoder and 'hard wiring' it into the loco. Either way, this requires the use of a 'soldering iron' to solder wires together and soldering wires to motor terminals. Plus the skill to identify what wires to disconnect to enable the decoder to be wired to them..As a first time DCC upgrade. I suggest you would have been better placed to look for and purchase a 'DCC Ready' loco. Then you could have just replaced the 'blanking plug' with a DCC decoder as a 'plug n play' type of conversion that does not require any soldering tools & soldering skills. By choosing the DCC Compatible loco type, you have chosen the upgrade path that needs the most skill from the three options described below..For information...the various terms and meanings are as follows:.DCC Compatible....means that the motor is suitable for being operated by a decoder. That the wiring modification needed to undertake the upgrade is not particularly onerous. But does require the use of a soldering iron and wire termination tools such as nippers, wiring pliers, heat shrink tubing with a hot air source to shrink the tubing. And the knowledge of what wires to disconnect and where to make new connections to the decoder..DCC Ready......means that the loco is pre-wired to accept a plug in DCC decoder. That the loco internally has a DCC socket into which a 'blanking plate' is factory fitted to enable the loco to run on Analogue DC. Thus the upgrade to DCC is just a case of removing the body to access the socket. Removing the 'blanking plate' and plugging the decoder plug into the socket instead. Make sure that the decoder is insulated from any metalwork and refit the body and test..DCC Fitted (sometimes referred to as DCC On-board).....means that the loco has a DCC socket that has already been equipped with a decoder and is ready to run on a DCC controlled layout 'out of the box' on the default DCC 003 address..Note that most Hornby DCC Ready and DCC Fitted locos use the NEM652 8 pin DCC socket..To give you a detailed overview of what you have elected to undertake as a DCC upgrade project (should you decide to continue with it) then the full instructions are here on the Hornby website:.https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/standard-0-4-0-decoder-installation-guide/.TIP: As this is your very first post, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmanbodypop Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 Thanks for your replies. I’ll order a decoder and let you know how I get on. I’ve done a DCC ready before so I think I’m ready for the next step! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 RDS - your advice is back to front!! After disconnecting pickup connections to the motor, decoder red and black go to the pickup connections, Orange and grey to the motor. If the loco runs in the opposite direction to what you were expecting, then swap orange and grey. If it is connected as you suggest, the decoder will destruct the instant the loco is put on the track. Chris, that installation guide has been overly complicated for years and I’ve pointed it out many times. It assumes the motor is mounted with its connectors facing down towards the chassis. In fact the connectors will be pointing up and there is no need to remove the motor to disconnect the pickup wires and discard the suppression components then connect Orange and grey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 You can fit a socket...... noting my wiring colours are non standard.As Fishy said red and black to the track (wheel pickups), orange and grey the other way (to the motor). /media/tinymce_upload/466c560ef244d015c25b377b2f24de6a.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDS Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 @FishyThank you. Yes of course, you are right. To prevent my incorrect instructions being used, I have removed my post completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howbi Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 X9659 4 pin decoder soldered installation..........HB /media/tinymce_upload/2d6ca4c74beb0881a8765c527d26f0a2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmanbodypop Posted April 19, 2019 Author Share Posted April 19, 2019 Thanks for all your advice. I worked my way through it all today and now have the digital loco I was hoping for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Well done.........not everyone on here seems to be able to manage what you have done, without making a 'pigs ear' of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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