Aussie Jeff Posted May 11, 2019 Share Posted May 11, 2019 /media/tinymce_upload/60581f22b51d1cfb63d08be685a2a000.jpgWell I've finally plucked up the courage to tackle the Lancaster that's been hiding under the bed since Christmas. I mentioned this at the end of my recent Tucano thread and received this reply from Peter s -"If it's the Biii i built it earlier this year and it's actually dead straight forward. If you do the east Kirby version as I did be aware Airfix got it wrong. That aircraft had the H2S radar fitted (I've a photo of the real plane to prove it). The kit actually has all the extra parts so do some googling"Two versions are available - 'S for Sugar' and the East Kirby one wirh the red tailfins mentioned above. I'm still tossing up which one to do, but am tending to lean to the East Kirby - I'll just have to find out what an H2S radar is - 😀. I was expecting more posts on this kit on this forum to help me out but there is not much at all/media/tinymce_upload/401ccf9ce1a52bdf7bc93bd470401599.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/0d40b062a389f466ea75034900627242.jpgThere sure is a lot to this kit, nowhere near as many decals as the Tucano I just finished, but it sure is going to take a lot more paint! Wish me luck./media/tinymce_upload/880eaba793c6498eb3bf0ee688f71835.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 The H2S is under the 'A'http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1312/4776356/9915355/145651002.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth ONeill Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 You see the teardrop blister on the clear runner, to the right of the cockpit canopy in your photo; that's the H2S blister. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter s Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 /media/tinymce_upload/5ec012e6b29da6d351babba7c879852b.jpgHere's the real thing. The H2S is the radar dome beneath the DX squadron code. It's perspex at the back and black for the front two thirds. The kit includes it, the radar dish inside the domb and some extra antenna for the nose. It was a fairly short range ground scanning radar (say 20 or 30 mile range) but with enough resolution you could identify specific buildings in the ground. If your target was a big L shaped factory you could see an L shaped building on the ground. it's a bit of a mistake with the kit really as the photo is easy to find on google.The real plane completed at least one full tour but was lost about Nov 1944 attacking the Elms canal (quite possibly in daylight... The red tail indicates some day missions as flight leader) I bought my kit after visiting "just jane" at East Kirby so there was no choice which option to do but the red tail looks really good i think. I won't post pics of my model in your thread but there should be some on the B111 product page if you want a look. As it had done a full tour i used some of S sugars bomb decals on the nose and gave mine about 30 credits. it's a big kit but a really straightforward one. The mildly irritating feature is no bombs. A friend bought me the bomber command resupply kit as a Xmas present and it's got every option you may want though. I went for a cookie 3x1000lb and 6 incendiary cans. There's 500lb and an 8000lb blockbuster in the resupply kit too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2B Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 H2S was an early form of Terrain or Ground Following Radar which was introduced by the RAF to improve bombing accuracy when most anyalyst suggested less than 5% (or 1 in 20) of bombs dropped landed within 500yds of the intended target. Looking forward to seeing you start this lovely kit!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 Okay, the build is underway.Commencing with the main floor (Hu78 topside/Hu33 in the bomb bay) and the main wing spars I would suggest NOT painting the ends of the spars until after inserting them through the fuselage halves. This happens a bit later and the tolerances are very tight and any paint on the edges makes it difficult to get them through without bending at the weak points at the tips. A bit of scraping/filing fixed it up but it would have been better not to try. The seat, pilot, controls and instrument panel are all in place and the floor forward of the pilot seat is painted black, as is the centre section between the spars./media/tinymce_upload/f7e72e26dcca523887ae8ed61480de86.jpgI'm actually using Tamiya acrylics (mostly, as Humbrol acrylics aren't in any of the shops I've been to) and I found a little trick to get the paint to both adhere well and go on smoothly with a brush. These paints are alcohol-based, so loading up the broad, soft-bristled brush with Tamiya thinner I paint the entire surface with thinner first and allow to nearly evaporate. Then using slightly thinned paint (about 6 or 8:1) brush in long strokes. Takes a bit of trial and error but when the balance is right the paint goes on like silkand the residual thinner helps eliminate brush strokes or, my nemisis, 'balling'. A lot less paint is used as well and a second coat just finishes it off.I finally did a pilot figure I'm satisfied with! I was curious as there is only one pilot seat/yoke/controls so I googled 'Lancaster cockpits' and, yes, that appears to be the case although there was a few pics with dual controls./media/tinymce_upload/60a57efe081e7a8121f186ca674edb4d.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/9f9a593fd6c8a312a9ca069279670d0d.jpgNext up was the navigator's desk/chair which would have been esier to fit prior to gluing the floor to the port fuselage half. The maps decal showing the path over the English Channel is a nice touch but not sure if any of this will be visible after the fuselage halves are closed up./media/tinymce_upload/493b77f3ca2eb5c2fda03222c12264af.jpgI decided to go 'off-piste' with regard to painting the exterior here. Obviously prior to fixing the floor in the interior needs to be painted and the windows fitted, but I anticipated a problem with that - how to paint the outed sufaces without getting paint all over them and I didn't want to mask them all later. So I painted the entire fuselage half, inside and out, in its final colouring. Masking for the black edge at window level was also much easier without the spars being in the way. I figure I can fix any mismatch at the joins later. The clear parts were then glued in place with PVA once the paint had dried. Let's hope this works out./media/tinymce_upload/5ede42ad1ea0e05684d8216a23f4989c.jpgNow for some questions regarding the H2S (thanks all for helping me ID the parts). The clear blister is translucent at the forward, rounded end and fully clear at the pointy, rear third. Should the front part be painted black (I'm assuming so looking at Ratch's photo) on the inside or outside surface? I also found what appears to be the parabolic antenna on one of the sprues that attaches to the lower fuselage under the dome - what colour should this be? Web pics I found seem to indicate a pale colour but they are in B&W. I bow to your collective expertise - 😆.Until the next instalment . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter s Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 I just painted the outside of the H2S. Basically I brush painted a patch of black fuselage first, glued the radar on and masked the clear bits then it got sprayed the same time as the underside.Nice job with the pilot! Basically every bit of weight that could be saved (like 150lb of co-pilot) was saved and replaced by bombs. Even the little bit of armour in the pilots seat was removed. If the pilot needed help the flight engineer seated behind could pull on the yoke. Dual controls are a post war thing for safety in preserved versions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth ONeill Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 As above about the operational crew compliment.Ref the side windows, what I do with stuff that size is leave them out, and use Humbrol Clearfix (preferred because it dries clearer) or Microscale KrystalKlear (SP guys) after painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2B Posted May 14, 2019 Share Posted May 14, 2019 Yes you should be pleased with your pilot, he looks really good. As for the H2S, as Peter S says paint the fuselage beneath the dome the night black before fitting the dome. I'm not certain about the parabolic antenna but I would do gunmetal grey or silver? You should paint the outer frosted glass part of the dome night black, but the later third is left clear. I believe this is because the rear section of the dome housing covered the aircraft recognition lights! The build is looking good so far and will enjoy watching it progress. I have the B.II in my stash but do want to add a B.I/III to my collection! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 Peter s - just looked at the photos of your Lanc on the Airfix product page. That looks sensational - just wow! That low shot with the wispy clouds looks like a wide-angle shot of a real aircraft. If mine turns out half as good as that I'll be very happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter s Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 Peter s - just looked at the photos of your Lanc on the Airfix product page. That looks sensational - just wow! That low shot with the wispy clouds looks like a wide-angle shot of a real aircraft. If mine turns out half as good as that I'll be very happy.Thanks! I had a bit of an accident with the green behind the starboard inner engine but fortunately the engine exhaust stain hid it. I tried to touch up the curve I'd sprayed with a brush and it looked awful. BTW regarding the row of side windows: I'm 95% confident they should be painted over on a 1944 B3 Lanc. "Just jane" certainly doesn't have them. I think they're a "shared mould" legacy of the B1 kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 16, 2019 Author Share Posted May 16, 2019 Progress is slow on this one, but I'm trying to curb my impatience. I finised up the starboard half of the fuselage and mated it up to the other side with only minor alignment issues. Due to the length it required a bit of clamping with various bits of tape and lacky bands. I found it amusing that all my care with the clear parts for the side windows it may all be for nought! Peter s mentions above that these were painted over in thi version and the box art doesn't look like it has any at all. More reserch needed. ☹️Below are pics of the fuselage all buttoned up ready to receive its wings./media/tinymce_upload/5f82ffb846226356c0a868ad29fd5668.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/35321cea6cdb45dacf94fa71f98f097d.jpg After a bit of googling I found an article and some pics of the H2S parbolic antenna here - http://www.apss.org.uk/projects/APSS_projects/radar/H2S/index.htm./media/tinymce_upload/41c2819c306cbbfdda9e5fa5f534b7cf.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b7fd9e34ebadd85a70c395cb2152627f.jpgSo it looks like I'll paint the dish in aluminium and the mount plain, flat black. Not that you'll see it (along with those three ID lights under the dome once two thirds of it are painted black - but I'll know it's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth ONeill Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Well, if it helps at all, the cutouts for the windows are still visible even on late machines where they were replaced by sheet metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Earth Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Looks great so far Jeff.Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 18, 2019 Author Share Posted May 18, 2019 Well my build sequence from step 22 has been all over the show like a sailor's breakfast rather than following the book but I have managed to get the wings, elevators and engine nacelles on without much incident notwithstanding my deviation. Again I tried painting various parts along the way in an attempt to get sharper lines but I'm not sure if it worked as some touch ups are needed. I tried this mainly for the wings, painting the halves separately for a clean line on the leading edge particularly - something I have found a challenge in the past.Anyway, you'll notice I ran out of black paint, so just waiting for a new lot to arrive (I knew this build was going to a lot of paint). Even using my new technique it has also been challenging to get a nice even application on such large surfaces with a hairy stick. And don't tell me I need an airbrush! 😀The colours look weird here due to the lighting - a more natural light makes it look much better./media/tinymce_upload/355520f9733bfb849f8b22e04b3a2479.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/016c4a87d5db5fd0b970a8d2ec624a76.jpgOnly another 55 steps to go and next is the delicate under carriage parts - hope I don't break any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 Another question to all you learned types. Two sets of propellers are included in the kit - one with a pointed, needle tip, the other more rounded, paddle-like tip. Which one should be used for the BIII? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 Another question to all you learned types. Two sets of propellers are included in the kit - one with a pointed, needle tip, the other more rounded, paddle-like tip. Which one should be used for the BIII? Thanks in advance. Don't worry - the instructions ay the pointy ones and I just checked Peter's build and it looks like he used them, so I'll take it as correct. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty Mediocre Modeller Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 As a rule of thumb with the Lancaster prop blades, the pointy neddle ones were used on earlier aircraft, about up to late 1944, when they started to be changed for the more efficient paddle blades. The same is true for Mosquito propellers as well. Your best bet to be 100% sure though is to find a photo on the internet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter s Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Another question to all you learned types. Two sets of propellers are included in the kit - one with a pointed, needle tip, the other more rounded, paddle-like tip. Which one should be used for the BIII? Thanks in advance. Don't worry - the instructions ay the pointy ones and I just checked Peter's build and it looks like he used them, so I'll take it as correct. Cheers.That's trusting! The instructions said the pointy ones so went with them. Given Airfix have done b1 b2 and b3 versions and that there's a lot of parts in the kit you don't need it's not crystal clear. Add in that both versions were relatively old planes when depicted and it gets even more vague. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 I uploaded a post on progress with this with pics about 5-6 days ago but looks like it vanished into the ether. I'll mk a further update later but it is progressing well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Symmons Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 Hi JeffI've the same problem I uploade two post with photos last week on Wednesday afternoon and and very late evening one on the Fiar G50 and one on WW 1 German Infantry. As yet nothing I'll give it till next week and re-upload them if nothing appears. I had something simular with the final KG V post, it just took much longer than usual to show up on the forum. Remember we do this for fun John the Pom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted May 28, 2019 Author Share Posted May 28, 2019 I'll have another go at posting an update, so if repeat info comes through apologies in an advance.After getting the fuselage together the build sequence took a bit of a deviation from the instructions but I got the wings, engine nacelles etc on without any major issues. I ran out of matt black paint and had to wait for a mail order delivery to arrive./media/tinymce_upload/ed880cb871f5fc6b6a58eefa188a47ae.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/06c4b021bd8632880aba74e20323a6c6.jpgNext was the undercarriage, wheels, flaps and rear fins - and the H2S radome. I always find undercarriages fiddly and difficult to align correctly but I think this was my most successful effort so far. I didn't even break anything!/media/tinymce_upload/7c2db9243bf3251f2d521eab08e9ab2b.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/0216781b7853feb05070568a85c332ca.jpgI had a problem fitting the bomb bay doors though. These are long and quite narrow and had developed a bit of a bend in them and wouldn't mate up to the fuselage very well. I tried straightening them with little success but the join was very weak. In the end I used PVA glue to both strengthen the joint and fill the gaps. Once painted over I don't think it'll be noticed./media/tinymce_upload/1b8c46d5bc3e0251c6d00dbb2348eb33.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/5615725386f353c0a0498d25274b9bcf.jpgStanding on its own three wheels!/media/tinymce_upload/5500fbb0c6cc5df00ac303dba954fe19.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/ab7d1a0b96cacb6246ab9e1887f4de82.jpgNow onto the various turrets and other transparent parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Jeff Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 Well I've had fun painting up the frames on all the clear turret parts and main canopy and fitting them all. Unfortunately my habit of breaking things along the way continues. The delicate bomb bay struts were the first to succumb and then a gun on the upper turret came adrift with my clumsy handling. easy enough to fix but wish I could be more careful. One other incident saw the rear bank of windows on the port side come unstuck, urning the fuselage into a rattle! Luckily I was still able to retreive the part via the cockpit opening but there was no way to refit it.It had been suggested earlier to use ClearFix for these small openings but I've never used it and didn't have any anyway. I checked out some YouTube videos on how to do it and read that ClearFix is pretty much refined PVA glue so I tought I'd just give normal PVA wood glue a go. I had decided to paint in the windows anyway so had nothing to lose. Here's the sequence and result./media/tinymce_upload/62de0715e62e2a4fc739fc3734f122ee.jpg1. Filled with PVA glue/media/tinymce_upload/0609626cb40ebea4f5e6ac0881ccdf3f.jpg2. 24 hours later - just a little milkiness but not bad at all. The window at top left is the real thing./media/tinymce_upload/56b15ab2530696f46d005539a39a7991.jpg3. Openings painted in. Pretty happy with the outcome.I'm just finishing up the propellers and painting now and then it'll be on with the decals so completed pics will be posted soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter s Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 Looking good! I found similar issues with the bomb bay. Mine is held on with dots of superglue gel and luck! I have read of a few Lancs that dropped the bomb bay doors over Germany as well as the bombs. Given everything was sacrificed for bomb load the real things didn't waste weight on chunky bay hinges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth ONeill Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 Well, it's good to know that the suggestion about not using small transparencies let you retrieve a potential problem. 😀 I'd actually never considered using a "normal PVA" for them, but next time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now