Loco Sticking

[Chrissaf]

Check the wheel rims and backs are clean and the pickups are making good contact with the wheel backs.

Also check at each duff point or crossing that the loco wheels are not being lifted out of contact with the rails. Having the points dead flat is essential by way of extra pins if necessary

[AndyHead78]

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[AndyHead78]

I've uploaded a photo of my layout in case anyone spots something I haven't done/need to do. The loco runs perfectly on my other DC layout, so I'm guessing it's either something to do with the track, or the eLink.

[Chrissaf]

I've uploaded a photo of my layout in case anyone spots something I haven't done/need to do.

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Just be aware, that your image is unlikely to appear before Monday. Images need approval by the Hornby administrator who only works normal weekday office hours. Community Moderators like myself can not approve images on this forum.

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I'm guessing it's either something to do with the track, or the eLink.

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What you describe is all too common with short wheelbase locos and Hornby track. It is very unlikely to be an issue with your eLink.

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At this stage, is all your track just loose laid and not pinned down?

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What surface is it laid on, is it perfectly flat. Sheet plywood, laminate flooring, (carpet, should be avoided)?

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The track, particularly the points, needs to be perfectly flat.

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Loose laid track can move due to the vibration of a moving train. The track joiners then move and loosen affecting transfer of electrical current through them, and can be a cause of intermittent loco stalling.

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The loco runs perfectly on my other DC layout

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Be aware that unlike Analogue DC, DCC is extremely sensitive to track condition and cleanliness. Even if the rails look shiny, there is likely a dirt film on them.

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Rub your finger along the top of the rail, does that leave a black line on your finger?

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If so, the track needs a thorough clean. IsoPropyl Alcohol (commonly called IPA) cleaning fluid applied with a soft lint free cotton rag is the recommended cleaning regime. This includes the wheels on the locomotives as well. If dirt is really ingrained, then a proper track rubber used sparingly (as it is still an abrasive). Do not use any other form of abrasive to clean wheels & rails.

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My own DCC layout is affected just by a layer of dust if not used for a few days. I usually have to run a cloth over the rails to remove the dust at the start of each play session.

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Your response might be, but the set is boxed brand new and track should be clean. Yes, but the metal parts likely have a protective film of oils on them to help them store on the retailer shelves.

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Short wheelbase 0-4-0 & 0-6-0 DCC locomotives are notorious for stalling on Hornby points. Remember that the Western Master GWR 0-6-0 loco is a cheap loco for a set. Hornby points have an insulated plastic area in the middle called a 'frog'. Short wheelbase locos sometimes have difficulty maintaining complete electrical contact with the metal rails as the loco passes over the frog area. Particularly if the loco in question does not have sprung axles as typically found on more expensive models.

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[Chrissaf]

Now I've got my eLink working, I'm on to the next thing I need to fix.

I have point clips on all of my points, so I presume power should be getting to all parts of my track. I have the 0-6-0 GWR from the Western Master set. I have managed to get the loco to move sporadically, however it seems to keep sticking, especially on points or the level crossing, and needs a nudge (sometimes stronger than others) to get it moving again.

[AndyHead78]

Any recommendations as to where I can buy the IsoPropyl Alcohol, other than eBay or Amazon? I's like to pick some up when out shopping if possible.

[Chrissaf]

Possibly a Chemist.....it is very similar to medical 'rubbing alcohol'. But that is the more expensive way of buying it.

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[walkingthedog]

I reckon eBay is the best way I'm afraid. Cheap and quick delivery. If you can't get any from the shops here in a  Link to eBay

[Rog RJ]

You can use methylated spirit as a second best cleaner to IPA.  It's very similar in cleaning ability but much easier to find in shops eg Wilko's.

[96RAF]

Just be aware all these fluids are highly flammable, so do not use in the vicinity of any naked flame or other ignition source.

[Chrissaf]

I've uploaded a photo of my layout in case anyone spots something I haven't done/need to do.

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Now that you photo has been published after the weekend (image originally uploaded on Sat) there are a couple of comments I would like to make.

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I see that you have placed your DCC power connector onto a siding - red circle. This means that all the power consumed on the rest of the layout has to pass through the DCC point clips at the red circled cross location. Ideally, the DCC power clip needs to be positioned at a location on the layout that minimises the number of DCC point clips the current has to pass through to reach all extremities of the layout.

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DCC point clips are a 'fault liability'. See this recent previous thread topic:

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/hornby-point-clips/?p=1

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I suggest locating the DCC power clip ideally at the position 1 green tick (would need a hole in the baseboard to route the wires through), or at position 2 green tick if wiring under the base board is not practicable. There are specific locations on Hornby curved track where a power clip can be placed. These locations are indicated by embossed arrows in the plastic on the underside of the track piece.

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With regard the baseboard. It is very thin and does not seem to have any visible batten bracing underneath. If this observation is true, then there is a high probability of the board flexing. Loco stalling is more of an issue when the base is not perfectly flat.

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This leads me on to the cork tiles. Ideally the cork should have been laid as a flat sheet. Looking at the shadows that follow the cork tile edges, it looks as if there might be a number of pronounced ridges (that can be felt with the finger tips). Again, this could affect the overall flatness of the base, particularly where the tile joints lie under a point. I assume that at this stage of construction the track is not yet pinned down. If this is so, then any ridges in the cork will have greater impact on the track and could be a contributory factor in your observations of loco stalling.

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