arc pro disappointed with Hornby tech

[andre_de-ste-croix]

I spoke to a hornby tech guy today regarding the v0.3 pb i got with the gt platinum, before i continue, guys please be aware i had no idea at the time that the v.04 existed or addressed issues with v0.3, indeed, i didnt obviously research enough, now some of you bought your gt pros when they came out in 2017 so you had the latest iteration, had i done so i would be either buying a new pb or modding, but i bought mine a couple of days ago to discover that the clc dont work and theres an issue with lap counting, hence v0.4 has hardware changes. in v.04 the clc works without modding and the lap counting is sorted, i feel that i shouldnt have to perform surgery in order to get a brand new piece of equipment to do whats required and i do feel justified in asking for the latest pb, but hornby not only incorrectly stated that the clc wont work even with v0.4 in digital mode, but also didnt believe there had been any hardware changes to the v0.4 pb which there absolutely has because i have seen the photos on slot international forum [thanks Dr C ] so am i to assume that this is avoidance by Hornby. Am i being unreasonable? I can still return the set although i feel bad for Clive at AC Models because he was great, possibly get a v0.4 le mans set and some track and cars. I have plenty of sport track and other cars so it wouldnt be all bad.Its just a shame that Hornby are in denial. Anyway sorry for the rant, but im sure a resolution will come either way.cheers

[woodcote]

Andre - I have the original ARC Pro and I really enjoy it. Sometimes in this hobby (especially on forums), people get very over-excited about tech revisions and lose sight of actually setting up a track, racing and having fun. In my experience, the original ARC Pro is perfectly fit for that purpose.

 

The Curved Lane Changers are old tech (discontinued some years ago) and ARC Pro wasn't designed to work with them. I don't use them and that is no great loss, in my opinion. The lane change button / lap counting issue is only a problem if you press and hold the button when you cross the powerbase. The simplest solution is not to place a lane changer immediately before or immediately after the powerbase. In other words, not using the old CLCs and some thoughtful lane change placement are 100% effective workarounds, requiring no modifications.

 

I dont know the ins and outs of the v.0.3 and v.0.4 PCBs. Taking my powerbases apart and looking at the circuitry is not something that really excites me. More important to me is how they function. It seems that the original ARC Pro pb does exactly the same at the latest version, with just two slight changes - the ARC Pro powerbases from Sunset Speedway onwards can use the CLCs with only minor modification; and the powerbases from the Le Mans 24 hour set onwards have the lap counting glitch improved.

 

In my opinion the Platinum GT set is the perfect ARC Pro set - it has everything you need to run four cars. The Le Mans 24hr is a great starter set, but you will need to add a pit lane (and more track) to use any of the ARC app features that require pit stops. You will also need a second power supply to run more than three cars, plus extra cars and controllers. Yes, you do get the latest version of the powerbase.

[andre_de-ste-croix]

Well i followed your advice Woodcote and i have to say after i cleaned up my old track and switched to the magic app i really had some fun. maybe i need to do more research on the scaly app but pace car races didnt seem as good, do i need to update any fimware on the pb, i dont want to brick it.

[woodcote]

No need to upgrade any firmware at the moment. The BLE firmware hasn't been changed. The PIC firmware has - but that only requires upgrading if you upgrade the PCB to improve the lane change button / lap counting issue. It also adjusts a tiny voltage difference between lanes in analogue mode. I continue to enjoy mine exactly as it came out of the box.

 

Pace cars are 100% better on the Magic app. That feature is a little basic on the Scalextric app and can be glitchy with some smart devices. I hope it's something that is improved in the future - but the Magic app does the job.

[Dazza1976]

I too have just purchased the GT Platinum Arc Pro set. I mentioned to the dealer about potential issues with the powerbase and he said he would assist if I cam across anything.

Not had much chance to test it yet, tried the app with pace car and it seemed to work ok. One of the cars (Aston Martin) bottoms out and magnet is too powerful, when going slow it will actuallly get stuck on the track. The rear tyres barely stick out beyond the base, I say it's a mm or 2 tbh at best! I think I need to fit some chunkier tyres and move magnet to position in front of the motor.

Are all GT Platinum PB inferior?

Also noticed uneven power distribution and when the cars pass over the lane change track they surge. Is this normal?

Also bound 2 new cars (touring car legends twin pack, RS500 and BMW E30) using DPR chips and cars work fine but using both Scaley app and Magic App have had some issues. 

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Looking to set up a decent layout after extension is built but for now set up in spare bedroom. The GT set is too big so made a smaller layout!

[woodcote]

Hi Dazza1976 - welcome to the forum!

 

First, can I put some of the chat and criticisms about ARC Pro in some context... When you see very long and very technical discussions of ARC Pro, these are coming from a group of experienced Scalextric digital enthusiasts who are extremely demanding and - on the whole - more interested in the minutiae of the technology than what the system can actually offer to the average home racer. The comparison is usually based on the question "how does ARC Pro match up to the very best digital systems?" - rather than considering whether Scalextric have produced a near-perfect entry-level system that offers all the features (and more) that the top-end systems have, but is easy to use and much, much cheaper.

 

Okay, so the 'inferior' original hardware in the Platinum set. This is the original November 2017 set and has never been re-released. The powerbase will be the original 2017 version. For most users (including me), it is perfectly good. There are two small issues, as I described above - a lap counting glitch if the lane change button is held as the car passes the sensors in the powerbase (only in digital mode) and a power issue at full power on one lane (only in analogue mode). The first issue is best avoided by placing lane changers and pit entry pieces away from the powerbase. I have not noticed the second issue in normal racing conditions. Since 2017, the first issue has been partially solved by a hardware update and the second has been fully resolved by a PIC firmware update - both updates feature on the latest powerbases. However, I have continued to use my original 2017 ARC Pro powerbase unmodified and am very happy with it.

 

Aston Martin issue - most cars will stop at very low speeds. Some models will require more throttle to get moving than others - and is completely normal. This is part of the low speed 'Calibration'  process in the ARC app. However, if the car is stopping at a slow-to-medium speed (i.e. half throttle), it might be a car issue, but not one I've seen on my Astons. The first thing I'd check is that the rear axle bushings are fully in the chassis and there is no upward movement when you push the rear wheels up. I'd also check the braid plate is fully in place - sometimes they shift forward. Or perhaps the chassis (underpan) is slightly warped? If checking the axle and guide and moving the magnet doesn't fully resolve the issue, I'd ask your dealer to assist.

 

Lane changer surge - yes, you will experience a brief surge on all lane changers. This is because of the isolated sections (the plastic bits). A Scalextric Digital chip is always looking for the digital command signal in the track. When it doesn't find it, the chip changes to its default analogue mode. On a digital track (where there is a constant 15 volts), this means the car goes 'full power' until it finds the digital signal again. This very brief surge is what happens when you first put a digital car on a digital track - or when it passes over an isolated section on the track, like on the lane changers. If the surge is causing a deslot (eg into a sharp Radius 1 hairpin), you can move the lane changers a half straight back from the corner.

 

All new cars with a digital chip should work fine. What I normally do is to test a new (analogue) car in analogue mode first, just to check it is working okay, then fit the digital chip and test again in digital mode (without the app connected). If there are any issues, it is then easy to see whether it is a car issue, a chip issue or something with the app. If you let us know (perhaps in a new thread?) exactly what issues you've had with the ARC app, I am sure help will be forthcoming.

 

I have written a guide to using the Scalextric ARC app with ARC Pro here: https://slotracer.online/missing-manual/

 

I hope that helps.

[Dazza1976]

Hi Woodcote,

 

Thank you for the quick response! the surge explanation makes sense, good to know.

the Aston I honestly think it has very shallow tyre height, I'll order some new ones to lift the rear of the car as it's happening at medium to slow speed and once stopped cannot get going again unless I nudge it, wheels just spin.

I'll do some extensive tests this weekend and replicate the lap counting issue, test the new cars again etc with magic app. kudos to that guy for building that app, will throw some cash his way.

 

I have had sets since young but took plunge on digital set, if there are issues I will just buy the latest upgrade kit and bring my total controllers put it 6 and at least I'll have a spare PBase! still got some cars from the early seventies but not running!

[woodcote]

The Aston is low at the back, but should never be spinning its wheels. I would check the rear axle and also see if the chassis is warped at all (one wheel might be lifting off the track). If you undo the four body screws 2-3 turns, does that make a difference? If this is happening in exactly the same place on the layout, I would suspect an issue with the track - a raised rail, for example.

 

The issues with the ARC Pro powerbase are common with all the 2017 and 2018 powerbases. I would suggest moving any lane changers and pit entries away from the powerbase to eliminate the risk of the lap counting glitch (which, I understand, is still a good idea with the 2019 powerbase...) and start enjoying what your ARC Pro can do. That includes exploring the Scalextric ARC app. I salute Cristiano for developing his Magic app, but I prefer the Scalextric version. I have both on my iPad.

 

If you buy the ARC Pro upgrade kit, you will almost certainly end up with another 2017 ARC Pro powerbase. The only sure-fire way of getting the 2019 version is to buy the ARC Pro Le Mans 24 hour set. I have explained the versions here: https://slotracer.online/missing-manual/upgrades.html

 

One final tip is to use INOX MX3 to improve conductivity on your track. It is one product that almost all Scalextric digital racers find improves the digital experience. Just add a drop to each braid on a couple of cars and run them around both lanes, lane changers and the pit lane at the start of your racing session. One bottle should last a very long time: https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/inox-mx3-lubricant-needle-bottle-60ml.html

[Dazza1976]

Thank you for all the advice Sir, very much appreciate it. created another track to incorporate some older track sections I have, which is actually quite challenging for me using digital andthe Aston is still an issue, by far the most stuck on car of the set cars, but gets stuck on the starting grid sections. Set it up as a pace car and it couldn't get off the line without a nudge. im not sure if there is additional metal in these sections, do feel like rail is raised a little but the other cars have no issues. 

actually the Porsche is the other way, least stuck down car by some way and need to tune it. Caveat is the room is dusty and I have not trued the tyres etc yet.

[gorp]

Thanks Woodcote for your explanation of the arc pro situation. Personally believe scaly should have and needs still to make available only a separate upgrade power base to previous purchasers.

[Dazza1976]

Was testing in analog mode last night and discovered the known issues (except to me prior to purchase

[woodcote]

There is only one issue in analogue mode and that is only at full power - not something I have ever noticed in racing conditions on a home track.

 

Did you have fun exploring what ARC Pro can do?

[Dazza1976]

There is only one issue in analogue mode and that is only at full power - not something I have ever noticed in racing conditions on a home track.

 

Did you have fun exploring what ARC Pro can do? 

Yeah I like it, and the blue guide blades were working with lap counting. i need to decide whether I get an iPad or find some way of connecting my iPhone to monitor. 

got a lotus cortina on order and couple more dpr chips. Will pick up another cortina tomorrow morning to entice my father/brothers to have a go! i think with 3-4 drivers it will be great fun. 

 

 

yeah the analog issue is well documented in slotforum. It's mostly the pit lane changer but also the str changers BUT only right lane. Its not an Arc PB issue for be fair, will a lane changer was issue according to the posts I've read. I'll have more of a play this weekend. Will follow your advice and pick up the oil and also tune the cars. need To clean my old track pieces  

 

wont be telling the girlfriend how much I've spent in past couple of week!

[andre_de-ste-croix]

interesting your observations Dazza i have not had the issue with my Aston, but i am seriosly considering getting the le mans set, with the updated pb plus 2 more cars and the track to extend/ replace old track i think its worth doing

[andre_de-ste-croix]

so after checking the date on a lemans pb i went ahead and bought the set, the date was 2019 so definately the newer pb, wow alot smoother and that was before i changed out some older track pieces, no stuttering and lane change was 100% accurate, am i right in thinking i can now use my clc without modding them?

Only one problem now and it lays 100% on my shoulders, i have built an 11ft x 5.9ft table and cannot reach in to build a new permanant track lol, i should have done an "L" shape. If anyone has any track designs to fit i would be glad to hear from you, im rubbish at this. I wasnt going to go for a bridge but after seeing some you tube vids and a suspension bridge on the net im coming round to the idea.

[gorp]

Andre,  thanks for good review of 2019 improved arc pro powerbase.

 

Remember , for analog use only , you must mod curve changers and do not use any track designs that combine both lanes. The straight dual changers are safe from the factory for analog but you may need to tape them open.

[andre_de-ste-croix]

Hi Gorp, i dont use the clc any more i did test them and were functioning with new pb, I got a couple of cars for xmas to try out and need to build an "L" shaped table but really enjoying my system right now, i bought some pit buildings and am researching making a pit wall. I do understand Woodcotes comments, but for me i feel it was worth getting the lemans set, i now have a spare pb for modding extra track and cars.

[andre_de-ste-croix]

so i seem to have a new development, unfortantely my no1, red controller has developed a fault! with the throttle half down the revs drop, so as yor driving increasing throttle there is a sudden drop then once you get passed half way it surges, so i test different cars all the same outcome, i then tried no2 green throttle and it was fine revs increase all the way through as it should be, i checked this on both lanes with both controllers so have checked all possibilities and its definately the controller, as i understand they use potentiometers so im guessing i cant fix, anyone else had issues or am i just unlucky. will ask Hornby for input!

[woodcote]

Hi Andre - Some of my ARC controllers have had a lot of heavy use and they are still working fine (apart from an occasional battery change). If I was having issues, I might look at opening up the controller and spraying the slider with a little contact cleaner. The only other controller-specific issue I have come across is batteries - when they run low, the controller can start to behave very oddly. I always use good quality AA alkalines (Energizer). I have heard some ARC users struggle with cheap AA single-use batteries and rechargeables.

 

You may have done this already, but the sure-fire way of seeing if it is a controller issue is to connect the Red controller to Green on the powerbase and see if the power drop moves with the controller. If it moved to Green, then there is something that needs cleaning or replacing on that controller. If it doesn't move, then test again by connecting the original Green controller to Red - if the power drop has stayed on Red, then there is a powerbase or software issue.

 

By the way, does this happen in both digital and analogue mode, or just one? And this is your new powerbase from the Le Mans set with the latest PIC firmware?

[Andy P.]

Knowing wether it is in digital or analog is very important...

[andre_de-ste-croix]

Hey Woodcote thanks for the reply, i only bought the set in december this year and the controlller has been used for maybe a total of a couple of hours, anyway Hornby have sent out a replacement controller and i have recieved it, i will test it out as soon as i have got rid of this damn cold. How long should Duracell batteries last in the controller do you think, how many hours? Matt the tech guy was very good although didnt mention erratic behavior with low battery power. Because of the amount of use i didnt try changing the batteries.Anyway i will try the old controller first with fresh batteries if it works i will offer to return the replacement controller to Hornby as that would only be fair.Cheers

[woodcote]

Hi Andre. I've never done a proper test of battery length. Using Energizer Alkaline Power AAs, I probably ran 50+ hours over the first few months after ARC Pro was released and I didn't change batteries. The first change I remember was one controller went glitchy three hours into a six hour public ARC Air event (on top of those 50+ hours) - I now fit new ones before any important event!

 

I have noticed that the charge holds very well if the controllers are switched off, but I did leave one on for a few weeks (on sleep mode) and the batteries lasted okay afterwards - although they did need changing before those in the other controllers.